Joejr14
Grand Bubble Burster
*This is pretty limited. I'm having a debate with myself as to what should go under here, and what should go under the Health Issues FAQ.
Husbandry/Basic Care FAQ
Q: What substrates can I use, and which shouldn't I use?
A: Most recommend aspen, as do I. It is cheap, totally safe, and easy to find. Other perfectly acceptable forms of substrate include but are not limited to Reptibark, newspaper, newsprint, paper towels, Eco-earth (or similar substrates like bed-a-beast) and cypress mulch. You should not use cedar, pine, sand, gravel, or astroturf. Cedar and pine are toxic to small animals and the others are either irritating to the snake or harbor bacteria and are very difficult to clean.
*Note about substrate- If you are using any substrate that can adhere to the mice, you need to feed the snake outside of it's cage. Feeding inside the cage on substrate can lead to the snake ingesting the substrate and causing an impaction. Impactions will be discussed further in the Health Issues FAQ.
Q: Do I need to supply extra heat to my snakes?
A: Maybe. It depends on where you live and what the temperatures are like wherever your snake is being held. More than likely, extra heat will be needed at some time during the year.
Q: Do I need to supply a temperature gradient for my snakes?
A: No, you do not. It is not necessary to supply a gradient for your snakes. However, would you enjoy being in a place where you could not control the temperature? Letting the snakes choose it's optimal temperature is best, if possible.
Q: What can I use for a cage?
A: There are a wide variety of choices. Most 'breeders' use some form of sterilite boxes/tubs, but glass aquariums are perfectly fine. Homemade cages are also fine, provided that wood is sealed and the cage is secure proof.
*A note on the cage being secure. Every single snake owner that has any decent amount of snakes has had snakes escape. And I do mean everyone, including breeders. Having a great secure cage is worthless if you do not take the time to make sure your cage is locked, shut, and tight. Snakes in general are escape experts and will get out of a cage if there is the slightest space/hole anywhere.
Q: How big does my cage need to be?
A: Most adult cornsnakes can be housed in 20 gallon long aquariums. All-Glass makes 'Critter Cages' that have a sliding lid with back latches that work great. If you choose to go the sterilite route, adults can be housed in 28qt sweater boxes and hatchlings through sub-adults in boxes ranging from 6qts to 12qts.
Q: What is a better source for extra heat, an under tank heater (UTH) or a heat lamp/light?
A: Again, it depends on your situation. If you live in a moderate climate, chances are you do not need much extra heat, so a light might do the job. If you live somewhere where it gets very cold, chances are you're better off with a UTH. Myself, being in Florida, I just use a red light as needed to keep temperatures in the range that I want.
Q: What are good temperatures?
A: 75-80F for the 'cool' side, and 80-85F for the warm side. Try to avoid temperatures below 70F and above 90F.
Q: Are stick on thermometers good to use?
A: NOOOO!!! Those measure ambient air (with poor accuracy) and that has nothing to do with what you need to know. Temperatures on the surface of the substrate are much more important than ambient air temperatures, or the temperature of the glass where the thermometer is stuck.
Q: What should I use for a thermometer then?
A: A digital one with a probe. These are available all over the place. I personally got mine from Walmart for about $7. Again, check the temperatures on the substrate, not up several inches--that accomplishes nothing.
Q: What about humidity?
A: Cornsnakes do not requite high humidity to thrive and will do quite well with average humidity. What's average, you say? 40-50% will do just fine.
Q: How do I measure the humidity in my cage?
A: You need to buy a hygrometer. They sell stick on dials at pet stores, or you can buy a combo humidity/thermometer from places like Walmart for around $15.
*Note- Low humidity can cause shedding problems, which will be discussed under "Health Issues FAQ".
Q: Do I need a water bowl?
A: Of course. Your snake needs to drink. Make sure you get a water bowl big enough so your snake can fully soak in it if need be, but not too big so that it has problems getting in and out.
Q: Does my snake need a hide?
A: Absolutely!!! In fact, it would be optimal for them to have two hides, one on the cool side and one on the warm side of the cage. These can be as elaborate as $15 cave hides, or as simple as half of a tissue box or a single serving cereal box.
Q: What can I put into my snake's cage for decoration?
A: Pretty much anything you want. Avoids things with foul plastic smells and sharp edges. Fake silk plants work very well, but can be difficult to clean. Half logs found at pet stores work great for hides and add a natural look to cages. Most pet stores also sell branches that you can use if you wish. You can also buy silk vines and use them in the same fashion as branches by affixing them to a glass cage with small suction cups. Remember, anything you find outside you must disenfect with either a bleach solution, baking in the oven on low temperatures, or both.
*Keep in mind that the more decor you put into a snakes cage, the more you will have to clean. Are you willing to take everything out once a month and scrub it all down with a bleach solution to disenfect it? Probably not. If you're prepared and willing to spend that amount of time cleaning, then by all means add decor, but if not, keep it simple. Most people with a sizeable collection will simply have substate, a water dish and a hide.
Q: How do I disinfect my cage and items inside the cage?
A: You can use a bleach solution (capful or two of bleach mixed with a gallon of water) and soaking very well afterwards, or by using Nolovsan, or it's generic counterpart. Nolovsan is a veterinary disenfectant that is perfectly safe for all reptiles.
FEEDING
Q: What does my snake eat?
A: Cornsnakes eat appropriately sized mice and rats. Please do not try to feed your cornsnake crickets or any other insect no matter what your pet store says.
Q: My hatchling is really small and there is no way it can eat a pinkie mouse, what do I do?
A: You'd be very surprised, but most all hatchlings can handle day old pinkies without a problem. Most owners greatly underestimate the size of prey their snake can handle.
Q: What are the size stages for mice?
A: Pinkie, fuzzy, crawler, hopper, sub-adult, adult. If you would like to see size comparisons and weight, please visit: www.rodentpro.com
Q: Oh no! My snake regurgitated, what do I do?!
A: Please see the Health Issues FAQ, located here:
Husbandry/Basic Care FAQ
Q: What substrates can I use, and which shouldn't I use?
A: Most recommend aspen, as do I. It is cheap, totally safe, and easy to find. Other perfectly acceptable forms of substrate include but are not limited to Reptibark, newspaper, newsprint, paper towels, Eco-earth (or similar substrates like bed-a-beast) and cypress mulch. You should not use cedar, pine, sand, gravel, or astroturf. Cedar and pine are toxic to small animals and the others are either irritating to the snake or harbor bacteria and are very difficult to clean.
*Note about substrate- If you are using any substrate that can adhere to the mice, you need to feed the snake outside of it's cage. Feeding inside the cage on substrate can lead to the snake ingesting the substrate and causing an impaction. Impactions will be discussed further in the Health Issues FAQ.
Q: Do I need to supply extra heat to my snakes?
A: Maybe. It depends on where you live and what the temperatures are like wherever your snake is being held. More than likely, extra heat will be needed at some time during the year.
Q: Do I need to supply a temperature gradient for my snakes?
A: No, you do not. It is not necessary to supply a gradient for your snakes. However, would you enjoy being in a place where you could not control the temperature? Letting the snakes choose it's optimal temperature is best, if possible.
Q: What can I use for a cage?
A: There are a wide variety of choices. Most 'breeders' use some form of sterilite boxes/tubs, but glass aquariums are perfectly fine. Homemade cages are also fine, provided that wood is sealed and the cage is secure proof.
*A note on the cage being secure. Every single snake owner that has any decent amount of snakes has had snakes escape. And I do mean everyone, including breeders. Having a great secure cage is worthless if you do not take the time to make sure your cage is locked, shut, and tight. Snakes in general are escape experts and will get out of a cage if there is the slightest space/hole anywhere.
Q: How big does my cage need to be?
A: Most adult cornsnakes can be housed in 20 gallon long aquariums. All-Glass makes 'Critter Cages' that have a sliding lid with back latches that work great. If you choose to go the sterilite route, adults can be housed in 28qt sweater boxes and hatchlings through sub-adults in boxes ranging from 6qts to 12qts.
Q: What is a better source for extra heat, an under tank heater (UTH) or a heat lamp/light?
A: Again, it depends on your situation. If you live in a moderate climate, chances are you do not need much extra heat, so a light might do the job. If you live somewhere where it gets very cold, chances are you're better off with a UTH. Myself, being in Florida, I just use a red light as needed to keep temperatures in the range that I want.
Q: What are good temperatures?
A: 75-80F for the 'cool' side, and 80-85F for the warm side. Try to avoid temperatures below 70F and above 90F.
Q: Are stick on thermometers good to use?
A: NOOOO!!! Those measure ambient air (with poor accuracy) and that has nothing to do with what you need to know. Temperatures on the surface of the substrate are much more important than ambient air temperatures, or the temperature of the glass where the thermometer is stuck.
Q: What should I use for a thermometer then?
A: A digital one with a probe. These are available all over the place. I personally got mine from Walmart for about $7. Again, check the temperatures on the substrate, not up several inches--that accomplishes nothing.
Q: What about humidity?
A: Cornsnakes do not requite high humidity to thrive and will do quite well with average humidity. What's average, you say? 40-50% will do just fine.
Q: How do I measure the humidity in my cage?
A: You need to buy a hygrometer. They sell stick on dials at pet stores, or you can buy a combo humidity/thermometer from places like Walmart for around $15.
*Note- Low humidity can cause shedding problems, which will be discussed under "Health Issues FAQ".
Q: Do I need a water bowl?
A: Of course. Your snake needs to drink. Make sure you get a water bowl big enough so your snake can fully soak in it if need be, but not too big so that it has problems getting in and out.
Q: Does my snake need a hide?
A: Absolutely!!! In fact, it would be optimal for them to have two hides, one on the cool side and one on the warm side of the cage. These can be as elaborate as $15 cave hides, or as simple as half of a tissue box or a single serving cereal box.
Q: What can I put into my snake's cage for decoration?
A: Pretty much anything you want. Avoids things with foul plastic smells and sharp edges. Fake silk plants work very well, but can be difficult to clean. Half logs found at pet stores work great for hides and add a natural look to cages. Most pet stores also sell branches that you can use if you wish. You can also buy silk vines and use them in the same fashion as branches by affixing them to a glass cage with small suction cups. Remember, anything you find outside you must disenfect with either a bleach solution, baking in the oven on low temperatures, or both.
*Keep in mind that the more decor you put into a snakes cage, the more you will have to clean. Are you willing to take everything out once a month and scrub it all down with a bleach solution to disenfect it? Probably not. If you're prepared and willing to spend that amount of time cleaning, then by all means add decor, but if not, keep it simple. Most people with a sizeable collection will simply have substate, a water dish and a hide.
Q: How do I disinfect my cage and items inside the cage?
A: You can use a bleach solution (capful or two of bleach mixed with a gallon of water) and soaking very well afterwards, or by using Nolovsan, or it's generic counterpart. Nolovsan is a veterinary disenfectant that is perfectly safe for all reptiles.
FEEDING
Q: What does my snake eat?
A: Cornsnakes eat appropriately sized mice and rats. Please do not try to feed your cornsnake crickets or any other insect no matter what your pet store says.
Q: My hatchling is really small and there is no way it can eat a pinkie mouse, what do I do?
A: You'd be very surprised, but most all hatchlings can handle day old pinkies without a problem. Most owners greatly underestimate the size of prey their snake can handle.
Q: What are the size stages for mice?
A: Pinkie, fuzzy, crawler, hopper, sub-adult, adult. If you would like to see size comparisons and weight, please visit: www.rodentpro.com
Q: Oh no! My snake regurgitated, what do I do?!
A: Please see the Health Issues FAQ, located here:
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