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Out of Brumation (Group 2)

R

Roy Munson

New member
More of my snakes are coming out of brumation today.

1. '05 Lavender het Amel Motley (Lil; 309g): Lost 6g in bru. Colorful girl, eh?

2. '05 Normal, hets unknown (Abigail; 412g): Lost 10g in bru.

3. '05 Anery, hets unknown (Poison; 502g): Lost 11g in bru.
 

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OK the normal is my fav(no surprise there) but the anery is an awesome looking snake also.......oh heck they ALL are awesome snakes!
 
Roy Munson said:
More of my snakes are coming out of brumation today.

3. '05 Anery, hets unknown (Poison; 502g): Lost 11g in bru.
Click to expand...

Does that say 05- 502grams? I thought peolple were just joking about you growing your snakes really fast, that is crazy, I havnt weighed yet, but I would assume my largest 05 is right at 300 grams. How often, and what, do you feed them as they are reaching that size?
 
Second set:

4. '05 Hypo Lavender (Helen; 348g): Lost 25g in bru! Don't know what happened. She didn't shed. It's ok; she's not in any danger of wasting away. ;)

5. '05 Light Emoryi (Leroy; 254g): Lost 2g in bru.

6. '05 Dark Emoryi (Julie; 402g): I'm cheating here. She wasn't brumated. But she should have been. She's gained 80g in two months. She's a big, solid girl. I might throw Leroy at her in a month or so anyway, or if/when I see ovulating signs.
 

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OOH! Lil is my fav :cool: Thanks for bruminating her for me Dean, you can send her off next week... :rolleyes: :grin01:

They all look great... and your buhemuth Anery is killer!
 
Yeah, I wasn't sure you had plans for Poison, but I guess if you were brumating her, you do. Score! The corn world needs more of those mega-growth genes.

Julie looks particularly nice too.

-Sean
 
Ok, my favorites in this batch are Abigail and Helen.

I have a dumb brumation question. Actually, several. So you had them in a cool room. Did you gradually raise the room temp, or just bring them right up to warm room temp all at once? When they are brumating, can you tell by looking at them? Do they respond to you? Do they have to shed before you can feed them?

I don't think I have anywhere cool enough, consistantly, to brumate. Even outside, the winter temps vary drastically- could be 85, could be 25...

Nanci
 
Thanks folks. :D

mike17l said:
Does that say 05- 502grams? I thought peolple were just joking about you growing your snakes really fast, that is crazy, I havnt weighed yet, but I would assume my largest 05 is right at 300 grams. How often, and what, do you feed them as they are reaching that size?
Click to expand...
Yep, that's what it says Mike. The short story is: she's a fast grower, and I did nothing special to get her big. The longer version can be found in a few threads. If you do a search for "Poison", you'll find them. :)

Below are my current approximate feeding guidelines. In practice, my own feeding schedules are probably slightly less aggressive. I've also been following the Carol H. "skip a feeding now and then" suggestion.

-When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 4-5 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 4-5 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (24-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)
 
Nanci said:
Ok, my favorites in this batch are Abigail and Helen.

I have a dumb brumation question. Actually, several. So you had them in a cool room. Did you gradually raise the room temp, or just bring them right up to warm room temp all at once? When they are brumating, can you tell by looking at them? Do they respond to you? Do they have to shed before you can feed them?

I don't think I have anywhere cool enough, consistantly, to brumate. Even outside, the winter temps vary drastically- could be 85, could be 25...

Nanci
Click to expand...
I'm glad you like those girls. Sometimes when I put Abi back in the rack, I'll pull her back out to take another look. Don't know what it is about that pet store normal. :)

I didn't raise the temps gradually. I just pulled them from the their cold storage, put them in a clean tub, and threw them in the running racks.

The physiological aspects of brumation occur automatically when the temps are sufficiently low. It they're at 60* or lower, they're brumating. But brumation doesn't mean that their 100% asleep, 100% of the time. I see them active at times even at low temps, and they see me and respond. If I handle one while I'm changing its water, it's usually almost as active as normal, with only a hint of sluggishness. So no, you can't tell by looking that they're in bru, but if your temps are low enough, they're in bru.

I give them four or five days at normal corn temps (75 cool, 85 warm) before I feed them a smaller-than-normal meal. Then I feed the males normally (if and when they'll accept), and the females aggressively.

If I couldn't get satisfactory brumation temps, I'd probably find the coolest place you can in the house and deprive them of food and light for five weeks. Of course, the snake has to be of healthy weight going in, because they're definitely going to burn calories when the temps are above 70* (or even lower).

Hope this helps.
 
Sorry, quick question.

First of all I love the normal in the first post. It almost looks like an okeetee.

Okay, Roy, so what do you mean by "cold storage?"
 
Thanks Rich and Katie. :)
tbtusk said:
Sorry, quick question.

First of all I love the normal in the first post. It almost looks like an okeetee.

Okay, Roy, so what do you mean by "cold storage?"
Click to expand...
Thanks-- I really like that normal too. I'm glad she looks sort of unique, and not like an Okeetee. I already have Okeetees. :)

I wrote "cold storage" to avoid going into detail. Foiled again! :grin01: If I keep my apartment temps around 65*, I have two areas suitable for brumation. 1)The floor-level cupboards in my kitchen get down in the low 50s, with occasional dips into the upper 40s. This is my "prime" brumating location. 2)I have a closet that gets down into the high 50s, with occasional dips into the mid fifties.
 
So why I asked about "cold Storage" is it sounded like you put the snakes in different containers to brumate them. Do you?

I don't, but then again I've only got 3.
 
tbtusk said:
So why I asked about "cold Storage" is it sounded like you put the snakes in different containers to brumate them. Do you?

I don't, but then again I've only got 3.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I place all but the largest in 15qt Sterilite to optimize my limited bru space.
 
Roy Munson said:
Thanks folks. :D

Yep, that's what it says Mike. The short story is: she's a fast grower, and I did nothing special to get her big. The longer version can be found in a few threads. If you do a search for "Poison", you'll find them. :)

Below are my current approximate feeding guidelines. In practice, my own feeding schedules are probably slightly less aggressive. I've also been following the Carol H. "skip a feeding now and then" suggestion.

-When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 4-5 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 4-5 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 5-6 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (24-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+)
Click to expand...

Interesting that is a fast grower.


Roy Munson said:
I'm glad you like those girls. Sometimes when I put Abi back in the rack, I'll pull her back out to take another look. Don't know what it is about that pet store normal. :)

I didn't raise the temps gradually. I just pulled them from the their cold storage, put them in a clean tub, and threw them in the running racks.

The physiological aspects of brumation occur automatically when the temps are sufficiently low. It they're at 60* or lower, they're brumating. But brumation doesn't mean that their 100% asleep, 100% of the time. I see them active at times even at low temps, and they see me and respond. If I handle one while I'm changing its water, it's usually almost as active as normal, with only a hint of sluggishness. So no, you can't tell by looking that they're in bru, but if your temps are low enough, they're in bru.

I give them four or five days at normal corn temps (75 cool, 85 warm) before I feed them a smaller-than-normal meal. Then I feed the males normally (if and when they'll accept), and the females aggressively.

If I couldn't get satisfactory brumation temps, I'd probably find the coolest place you can in the house and deprive them of food and light for five weeks. Of course, the snake has to be of healthy weight going in, because they're definitely going to burn calories when the temps are above 70* (or even lower).

Hope this helps.
Click to expand...


Here is an interesting thought. Alterna are known to "need" a much lower temp to properly brumate. Usually around 55 is considered the norm. Being in south texas I have few options to reach this temp. I contemplated putting all my mexicana in the fridge, but the warmest I could get it was 45, and I worried if it might be too cold. So, I posted a question on KS in the alterna forum and recieved interesting responses. The thought is that you take the average temp for any given area and that is the average temp underground. So alterna, the average temp in Del Rio, Texas is 70, so underground it is 70. So alterna in the wild brumate at 70. I have brumated all my animals the last 2 months at 65, so we shall see how well these animals breed this year. I am crossing my fingers. Perhaps this is true for corns as well, we already know that no brumation is "needed", but perhaps it is not as necessary as we thought to get them much cooler than 65 ror a long duration.
 
Thanks for the detailed answer, Dean.

Mike- what about a wine refrigerator?? Temp range is 57-66F!

Hey, I need that. It's for the snakes, seriously.

Nanci
 
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