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Another question about Brumation

germantank22

New member
Hi Everyone,

So it seems like everyone has brumation questions, and I am sorry, but I am going to start another brumation thread.

I understand the reasoning behind brumation-this is what would happen in nature, it allows for egg follicles to form and spermatogenesis to occur, and basically just "resets the snakes biological clock" as it were.

I also understand that there is a divide in opinion amongst breeders: some strongly advocate breeding for the reasons mentioned above, other have been breeding for years and have never brumated once.

It appears as if the "brumaters" have varying strategies: most keep temps between 50-55, some as low as 45, some in the low 60's.

My question is concerning the timing and length of brumation. There are all sorts of posts out there now stating that "Brumation is right around the corner!"
-Does this mean that most people are going to stop feeding around now to allow the snakes to "empty" themselves?
-If so, how long should snakes be in brumation? The VMS Herp guide says that they leave their snakes in brumation for about 3 months (Dec-Feb; http://www.vmsherp.com/LCBreedingCorns.htm)
-Is November-January, with warming up in February too early?

My plan is to give my snakes their last feeding this weekend. I will then allow them about 2 weeks (until Halloween weekend, we'll say) to digest and "empty" themselves. Then I'll begin brumation from November-January, and begin warming temperatures back up in February.
-Does this seem like a viable plan?

Looking forward to your input.

Thanks,
Jim
 
Sounds good Jim, I give my snakes 3 weeks to clean out then i take a week to take them down from 82 degrees to the 55 degrees in my basement. I keep my corns and hognose at 55 degrees (give or take a few degrees) for 8 weeks. Afterward, I take a week to warm them back up to 82 and offer them a small meal.
After that I wait for the females to shed and then the breeding season begins! :)
 
I understand the reasoning behind brumation-this is what would happen in nature, it allows for egg follicles to form and spermatogenesis to occur, and basically just "resets the snakes biological clock" as it were.
There's also the practical factor that their prey animals aren't as numerous over the winter or have hunkered down themselves. No point a cold-blooded animal wasting previous energy hunting in cool conditions, when more often than not, they won't catch anything. Neat bit of evolution.
 
Corn snakes are easy to breed. Many people have done it without really trying. There is a very wide range of brumation lengths and temperatures that work (including not brumating at all). In the wild corn snakes live all the way down in south Florida (a subtropical climate) and all the way north to states like Kentucky and Virginia. The winter time climate is very different in the southern part of the snake's range compared to the northern part. So there is no "best" brumation method and no strict "rules" for cooling snakes.

To answer your questions:

-Does this mean that most people are going to stop feeding around now to allow the snakes to "empty" themselves?
Yes, this is what breeders do before allowing their snakes to cool down.

-If so, how long should snakes be in brumation? The VMS Herp guide says that they leave their snakes in brumation for about 3 months (Dec-Feb; http://www.vmsherp.com/LCBreedingCorns.htm)
This varies considerable. I've cooled corns for as little as 3 weeks and had 100% hatch rates. A fair number of people like to cool their snakes starting on Thanksgiving, and warm them starting on Valentine's Day. These holidays are easy to remember and have long been used as guidelines.

-Is November-January, with warming up in February too early?
No.

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