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Baby Corn Snake Always Sleeping

parzi

New member
Hey,
I just got my baby corn snake on Thursday. I didn't handle him until Friday. He was a little scared at first but got used to me. I play with him about 30 mins. every day. He has all the proper needs. But there is one problem... He is almost ALWAYS sleeping. I fed him for my first time on Monday, he ate perfectly. Is this normal. He is about 14 inches long. Please give me as much information as you can. This is my first snake and I want to raise a very playful and happy snake. I want to know all the prper steps of taking care of a corn snake. i will be sure to post pics.
 
Welcome to the forums.

Well, you may be surprised that snakes can be a little boring sometimes. They are also more active at night than during the day. Of course you can always pick them up and handle them even if they're "asleep". If you haven't already, pick yourself up a book on corn snakes, it'll help a lot (reading it of course).
 
It sounds like you need to know some of the basics, so here is a very basic care sheet that I created for use at the store I work at. I would recommend doing a lot more reading here and in some books as well.

To answer your question, it is very normal for him to hide for 2 days after you feed him; he is digesting his meal and should never be bothered during this period or he may regurge (see below). He will also hide for perhaps a week or more when he is getting ready to shed and, likewise, he's better left alone for the most part when he's getting ready to shed. It is also very normal for him to hide when you first get him home; he's all stressed out from being moved around. Handling him for 30 minutes a day in the first week you got him is highly stressful for him as well and is probably why he's hiding/sleeping whenever he can. He is never going to be "playful", but you can make him happy by being aware of his need to be left alone at certain times. It's not that you can't take him out when he's sleeping, but it would be better if you wait until you see him out and about exploring to bring him out to handle. Also be aware that he is nocturnal, so is most active at night, so it's better to handle him later in the day.

Congratulations on your new addition and let us know if you have more questions. :)


Corn Snakes

Congratulations on your new corn snake! Your new pet is depending on you for all of his needs, so please read these instructions carefully and please let us know if you have any questions.

Your corn snake will require a small cage with a heating pad that covers approximately 1/3 of the bottom and is placed to one side. The cage should be filled 1-2” with aspen shavings. You should also give him 2 hiding places (one on the heating pad and one on the cool side). He also needs a water dish and you can add some plastic plants if you like. It is also a good idea to have a thermometer and a thermostat to control the heating pad. Corn snakes require a “hot spot” of 85 F and the cool side should be around 75 F.

When you get home with your new friend, he will be feeling quite stressed, so you should place him in his new home and then leave him completely alone for one week. He should have his first meal with you after this one week period. Failure to leave the snake alone for this one week period could result in a regurgitation of his meal once you feed him. Regurgitation of a meal is an extremely dangerous situation for a snake, as it kills many of the “good bacteria” in the snake’s stomach that allows him to digest his meals.

Feeding time!

Your snake should be fed an appropriately sized* frozen mouse that has been thawed out in hot water and patted dry. Make sure the mouse is completely thawed before offering it to the snake. The snake should be placed in a small container when it is dinner time. This tells the snake it is time to eat and ensures he won’t accidentally eat any aspen shavings. Every snake is different. Some don’t mind you watching them eat, while some would prefer to eat in privacy. If you have a shy snake, you may need to place him in a dark room or cover him with a cloth while he eats. Make sure he cannot escape from the feeding container if you will not be watching him! You can place his feeding container in his cage if you like and there will be no danger of escape. When your snake is done eating, carefully transfer him back to his cage (or let him out of his container) and then do not handle him for 48 hours while he digests his meal.

*Determining the proper size mouse and how often to feed your snake:

You will need a scale that measures in grams. (You can get an excellent digital scale at Walmart for $20. Digital is much easier to use than the regular kitchen scale, especially when your snake is quite small.)

The Munson Plan (Sample Feeding Chart):
-When they're on single pinks (2-3g), I feed every 5-6 days. (Snake = 4-15g)
-Double pinks (3g x 2) every 5-6 days. (Snake = 16-23g)
-Small fuzzies (5-7g) every 6-7 days. (Snake = 24-30g)
-Regular fuzzies (7-9g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 30-50g)
-Hoppers (9-12g) every 6-7 days (Snake = 51-90g)
-Weaned (14-20g) every 7 days (Snake = 91-170g)
-Adult (20-30g) every 7-x days (Snake = 170+) See below.
Note: Adult females are fed more frequently than adult males (especially following brumation). Adult females are fed every 7-12 days; adult males are fed every 11-14 days.
This is by no means scientific, and not all corns will cooperate 100% with the schedule. The weight ranges I gave for the prey and snakes are approximate.

This feeding plan is courtesy of Roy Munson. Please visit www.cornsnakes.com for more information on the feeding plan. This is also an excellent site for all your corn snake questions!

Alternatively, feed your snake a mouse that is the same size around as the fattest part of the snake’s body or up to 1.5 times his girth. You will be surprised how big his mouth will open!

If your snake regurgitates

As previously mentioned, this is a dangerous situation and must be dealt with very carefully. If a snake regurges twice, he may just keep regurging until he dies unless something is changed about his care. Regurges can be caused by stress, feeding prey items that are too big or improper temperatures. The snake requires the proper heat in order to properly digest its meals.

The snake must be left completely alone without handling for 10 days, regardless of his normal feeding schedule, so that he can start to rebuild some of the good bacteria in his stomach. After the 10 days, feed the snake a mouse the next size down or smaller from what he normally eats. If the snake is on pinkies, you will need to cut up the pinky and feed only the head (save the bottom for another meal). If he keeps that down, wait a week to feed again, but stay with the smaller meals for at least the next 2-3 feedings. (For pinkies, feed another pinky head the next meal, then feed the bottom halves for the next 2 meals.) Don’t handle the snake again for awhile. Take it slow and don’t rush back into normal meals and handling.

My snake won’t eat!

First, realize that your snake can go a very long time without eating and no harm will come to him. You don’t need to be concerned unless your snake goes 3 months without eating. The first thing to try is to treat him as if he’s a shy snake and give him some privacy while he eats. Give him an hour or two or you can even leave him overnight in his feeding container placed in his cage. If your snake does refuse food, wait about a week or until his next regularly scheduled feeding day to try again (refused food must be thrown out; it cannot be refrozen). Offering food too often can cause your snake to get into the habit of refusing food. Male snakes may go several months without eating in the spring, as this is mating time and he will be too busy moving around his tank looking for a female to think about eating.

Can I get a friend for my snake?

No, corn snakes cannot live together.
 
Not much more to say, but I'll throw in my two cents anyway. Corn snakes are nocturnal, which means they usually only venture out at night. Chances are that while you're sleeping, is when he's out and about. My corn snake usually waits until sometime around 7:00 before he starts becoming active. Snakes don't move around very much in general, which is part of the reason they can go a couple weeks without eating, without almost no problem. It's good that you're taking the time to handle him regularly though. Keep that up :)
 
Mine sleep all day, but after dark they are out, and more so now that it is warmer, I find them out lying on top of their viv furniture between 8 PM & MN looking around at the world outside the viv.
 
At about 10PM last night, I went into my snake room and all of them were out and about.
During the day, I rarely see them. They are curled up in their hides. Although, on feeding day, they are usually out earlier.
My garter snake is out all the time, though.

Don't worry about your snake sleeping all day. I bet if you stayed up all night watching her, you would see her being active.
 
What kind of set up do you have him in? I've personally found that the home I put a baby snake in determines a lot how often I see him.

When I first started keeping snakes I would put babies in larger tanks with a few hides, some substrate, but not really a whole lot of "ground cover". As soon as I started keeping snakes in racks I had them in plastic shoe box containers. The space was a lot smaller, and the hides were closer together. Also, only one side of the vivarium was exposed to the outside world. The other 3 were somewhat shielded/covered. I saw my babies A LOT more than when I had had them in large tanks.
I don't think this is due necessarily to the size of the aquarium, rather the amount of cover your snake has. If you have a huge aquarium, don't freak out. Go check out Nanci's set ups if you need a good example. Give your snake MORE hiding spots and you will most likely see it more. Also, for my enclosures that arn't in a rack, I cover the back and sides with material to make the whole enclosure seem more like a hide.

Your snake is probably not really sleeping all the time, it is spending its time in the areas of its enclosure it feels the most safe. If you provide fake plants and tons of hides your snake will probably feel more confident to move around his/her home, and you will see him/her out and about much more frequently.
 
Snakes will burn up energy while handling. If he is active while you're holding holding him, then that may be all the activity he needs for the the day. How many times do you offer food a week?
 
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