is dried eco earth ok for bearded dragons? is it ok if they eat it or will it harm them? and also is sphagnum moss ok for them aswel?
NO! Did you do
any research before you bought him??? At under 12", the dragon should not be on any form of partical substrate.
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General Information
The inland or central bearded dragon (Pogona vitticeps) is swiftly becoming one of the most popular reptiles in the pet trade today. A medium-sized lizard, reaching a maximum length close to 22 inches (half of which is tail), ithey generally have a melow dispostion and seem to enjoy interacting with people. A native to south, central Australia, the Bearded Dragon can be found in arid, rocky, semi-desert and arid open woodland regions. They are diurnal (active during the day) and with proper care, can live for 10 years or more in captivity. Due to very restrictive wildlife export laws in Australia, all Beardies purchased in the United States are captive bred.
More then one?
Reptiles in general are are not social creatures. This also includes Beardies. In the wild, the only contact that dragons will usually have is during breeding season. Males will combat for females and breed. They then go their seperate ways.
In some cases, two female Dragons can be housed together if their living conditions are above and beyond ideal. This is strictly recommended for Dragons who are confirmed female, and of the same size. Be sure if houseing more then one Beardie you provide multiple basking sites.
As long as their is no obvious agression, it is completely ok to allow both of your pet dragons out for supervised “playtime.” At the first site of conflict, immediatly seperate the two to their respective enclosures.
Housing
Initially for the first 3-6 months after hatching, a rather bare enclosure is recommended, A 10 to 30 gallon glass or plastic enclosure is the best size at this age, with only a basking rock and some sort of climbing structure. If given to elaborate of a cage, babies may not be able to benefit from proper heat and UVB exposure.
Dragons grow very quickly when in optimal conditions. Do not expect a 10 or 20 gallon tank to last long!
As an adult, a minimum 40 gallon enclosure is needed. Six square foot of space is the minimum requirement. The more space, the happier and healthier your dragon will be!
Substrate
Partical Substrate
If you want a more “natural” substrate use Washed/Screened Playsand. It is easily, and rather inexpensivily found at most home improvent stores. The drawback to partical substrates is that there is a risk of a Beardie ingesting too much, which causes an impaction in the intestines (a serious condition for dragons thatcan cause paralysis or even death).
Other Substrates
Reptile Carpet, Newsprint, Paper Towels, Butcher Paper and Non-Adhesive Shelf Liner are all perfectly safe substrates to use for Beardies.
Newsprint, Paper Towels and Butcher Paper are the easiest clean up...Pull the dirtied substrate out and discard! Reptile Carpet will need to be washed with a 5% bleach solution, rinsed well and left to dry (it’s a good idea to keep an extra piece on hand to switch out). Non-Adhesive shelf liner is also very easy to clean, just wipe up up the soiled spots and every pull out and scrub with a 5% bleach solution.
Lighting
Lighting is essential for the health of a Dragon. UVB exposure is necessary to promote proper growth. Many lights sold for reptiles do not contain the essential UVB, you must carefully check the packaging to determine its UVB output. Make sure that their is no glass or plastic between your Beardie and the UVB bulb, it can block many of the UVB rays.
UVB lighting comes in two options; fluorescent and incandescent. The incandescent Mercury Vapor bulbs can be used for both UVB and basking light. The fluorescent bulb must be used in conjunction with a basking bulb (a regular house bulb works fine).
MVB bulbs can provide the necassary UVB rays for up to two years, . The fluorescent bulbs output of UVB drops drastically after 6 months.
Beardies require a photo period of 12 to 14 hours a day (except during burmation). An inexpensive timer can be used to automatically turn on and off the lighting.
Temperature
As with most reptiles, a thermal gradient is required for good health. A basking site of 100-110 degrees Fahrenheit directly beneath the light is required. Tempertaures should be close to 80 degrees Fahrenheit on the cool side. To help with digestion, a stone beneath the basking light will absorb heat and warm a Dragon’s belly.
A digital thermometer or temp gun is needed to accurately monitor enclosure temperatures.
Feeding
Insects
Dragons can be fed a variety of insects including crickets, silkworms, roaches and mealworms. Only offer the Dragon as many insects as he can eat within a 5 minute span of time. Younger dragons should be fed 2-3 times a day. Never leave any insects in your Dragon’s enclosure overnight, a hungry insect can cause damge to a sleeping Dragon.
Salads
Dragons should be offered a salad every morning. The salad should be made up of mostly greens such as mustard, turnip and collard greens. Dandelion greens, Endive, Escarole and Squash are also great staples. On occasion, other fruits and vegetables can be offered in small amounts. Iceberg lettuce should be avoided due to its lack of nutritional value.
Supplements
If your dragon is under 5 months, prey items should be dusted every ifeeding with a Calcium Powder that contains Vitamin D3. You should also dust with a multi-vitamin powder 1-2 times a week. As your Dragon rgrows, you can cut the calcium supplements back to 3 times a week and vitamin supplment to once a week.
