Burrowing for long periods of time?

[JalapenoPeeps]

So as i bunch of you know, i just brought home a new corn yesterday, my first ever snake. My question to you is, is it normal for a new corn to burrow under her substarte which is under her cool hide, and not move from that spot? I saw her scaling the glass a bit last night an hour or two before i went to bed, but she didnt really move far away from where she was burrowed. Is this ok?

 

[Nanci]

That's normal.

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

That's normal.

Thats good to know.
How long will she do this for? Im a little bit worried that shes to worried to move to the warm hide, and shes getting cold, but then again, people are telling me that my cage might be too warm, so, she might be ok in the cool side.

 

[TWGarland]

JalapenoPeeps Quote:

Thats good to know.
How long will she do this for? Im a little bit worried that shes to worried to move to the warm hide, and shes getting cold, but then again, people are telling me that my cage might be too warm, so, she might be ok in the cool side.

Yeah burrowing is part of a corn snakes natural behaviours. Mine loves to do it too IMO its to do with feeling secure.

As long as you provide the adequate temperature range in your vivarium, then don't worry about where your snake is in the viviarium, just leave it to thermoregulate itself

Also you seemed (i may have misundertood) a little worried about your corn burrowing on the hot side of your vivarium? Well you should already be monitoring how hot it gets above your heat matt, under the subsrate as thats the hottest place your snake can get to. So if you know the temp is acceptable you've got nothing to worry about.

All the best,
Tom

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

Yeah burrowing is part of a corn snakes natural behaviours. Mine loves to do it too IMO its to do with feeling secure.

As long as you provide the adequate temperature range in your vivarium, then don't worry about where your snake is in the viviarium, just leave it to thermoregulate itself

Also you seemed (i may have misundertood) a little worried about your corn burrowing on the hot side of your vivarium? Well you should already be monitoring how hot it gets above your heat matt, under the subsrate as thats the hottest place your snake can get to. So if you know the temp is acceptable you've got nothing to worry about.

All the best,
Tom

Thanks, this makes me feel alot better, im getting a rheostat today to help regulate the pad. And just so i can be sure about this, i really shouldnt handle her for a week? :shrugs:
Thats torture! but if thats how she feels confortable, then im willing.

 

[TWGarland]

JalapenoPeeps Quote:

Thanks, this makes me feel alot better, im getting a rheostat today to help regulate the pad. And just so i can be sure about this, i really shouldnt handle her for a week?
Thats torture! but if thats how she feels confortable, then im willing.

Sorry, i dont understand this post. The rheostat/thermostat will regulate the pad, you'll also need a digital thermometer (there cheap ) to monitor the temperatures.

Why would you not handle for a week? Is this a new snake?, one you've only just aquired? If so then yes you'll want to leave the snake for a week (i only left mine three days :shrugs: each to their own), this gives it time to settle in, de-stresses the little guy After that, handle as you please, except for leaving two/three days after feeding.

All the best,
Tom

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

Sorry, i dont understand this post. The rheostat/thermostat will regulate the pad, you'll also need a digital thermometer (there cheap ) to monitor the temperatures.

Why would you not handle for a week? Is this a new snake?, one you've only just aquired? If so then yes you'll want to leave the snake for a week (i only left mine three days :shrugs: each to their own), this gives it time to settle in, de-stresses the little guy After that, handle as you please, except for leaving two/three days after feeding.

All the best,
Tom

Yeah she's new. Nanci had said a week, the girl at petsmart said two days.
Oh-well ill see tomorrow if she will tolerate it, if not, ill give her some more time.

 

[Nanci]

These are the acclimation reccomendations from VMS Herp, a very large breeding facility.

*****************************

General Acclimation

You've just received your shipment, opened the box and there's your new friend staring up at you from the inside of deli cup. Now what?

Glad you asked, because what happened to your pet during transit was pretty frightening. What happens next can be even more traumatic, depending on how you acclimate your new pet. Please take a few moments to read the following paragraphs, hopefully before you receive your shipment, so that you know what to do to minimize further stress on your new reptile.

There's a few simple rules to follow which can really ease the transition from their old home here at VMS (the only home they ever knew) to the new home somewhere else in the United States.

First, resists the temptation to tear into the box and dig out your new pet. I know this is hard, but please take just a moment to collect one critical piece of information - the temperature inside the box upon arrival. Just quietly crack the lid and slip a thermometer inside. This information can be very helpful if you should need to contact us later regarding difficulties in getting your pet to settle in.

Second, resist the urge to handle your new pet for a few days. VMS is a commercial breeding facility, housing many hundreds of baby reptiles at any given time. As a result, they rarely get handled other than for routine maintenance and cage cleaning. Your new pet may view being handled as yet another stressful event following the trauma of being packaged up and shipped across the US, ending up in some strange new place. Give them time to settle in and start feeding before attempting to handle them. When you do decide handle them, do it inside the cage if possible or at least on the floor. Odds are high they will be nervous and easily startled - jumping out of your hand for a five foot plunge to the floor can be fatal! Handle only for a few minutes at first, increasing the time spent handling each day until your new pet no longer minds at all.

Third, resist the urge to unceremoniously dump your new pet into his new spacious cage. This can be another real shocker to them. Instead, set the deli cup inside the cage and gently pry off the lid. Turn out the lights on the cage (or even the room if very bright) and quietly withdraw, allowing the reptile to venture out and explore the new surroundings at will. This increases the chances of successfully locating the hide area and water dish, etc. without panicking.

Fourth, don't even think about feeding your new pet immediately. Sadly, this is the first thing most newcomers to reptile keeping try to do. Odds are very high that your new lizard or snakes will be too frightened to feed. Attempting to feed under these conditions can have several consequences:

Uneaten live rodents and crickets may actually turn to your new pet as a food source, gnawing on exposed areas of your new pet! Too frightened to come out of hiding, your new reptile may receive some serious damage.

Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.

Lizards seem to get over it all a little quicker than snakes, especially very young geckos. Waiting two days is usually sufficient. Even then, feed sparingly! A couple crickets is plenty to tempt your new pet, and you can always add a few more if you see them get eaten. But two dozen crickets running about can be a bit frightening to an already nervous little lizard! Remember, less is better.

Larger geckos may require longer periods to adjust, with some adults refusing to feed well for ten days or more! Some keepers report success tempting such stubborn with wax worms, which seem to have an irresistible wiggle when they crawl. But most will simply resume feeding one day as if nothing had ever happened.

Also, avoid handling your new reptile before attempting to feed. It's more important that it resume a regular feeding schedule than anything else.

Most of the reptiles we sell are nocturnal and feed best in low light conditions. It's best to offer food in the evening or early morning hours, before bright lights and a lot of household activity disturb your pet.

Feed very sparingly the first few weeks after arrival. Feed snakes smaller meals than normal and give lizards fewer crickets than normal. The stresses of shipping can often upset their digestive systems, and large meals may be regurgitated, causing additional problems.

It is of prime importance that your new pet be allowed to settle in and acclimate fully. Constant stress during the acclimation period should be avoided. With proper care and conditions, you should have your new pet for years to come. There will be lots of time to mess with them later - for now, give them a rest!

 

[TWGarland]

Seems like good advice. Suppose acclimataion issues such as some of those discussed in the above depends on if you've had your snake shipped to you or not :shrugs:

 

[diamondlil]

Seems like good advice. Suppose acclimataion issues such as some of those discussed in the above depends on if you've had your snake shipped to you or not :shrugs:

Agreed. My snakes mostly had a journey of an hour or so, shop to door. The exceptions were my snakes from V-man, who'd travelled from New York to Hamm, then to Nige where he kept them for me, then to Brum, then a 5 hour journey here. So those are the only 'slow acclimatisation' snakes I've had. I generally keep handling to a minimum with all hatchlings though

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

Agreed. My snakes mostly had a journey of an hour or so, shop to door. The exceptions were my snakes from V-man, who'd travelled from New York to Hamm, then to Nige where he kept them for me, then to Brum, then a 5 hour journey here. So those are the only 'slow acclimatisation' snakes I've had. I generally keep handling to a minimum with all hatchlings though

Well, My snake Ember had a 15min transportation period. I live close to the local store she came from. So she didnt have to go through shipping.

 

[Ohana]

I would give little Ember a week to settle in. I know it is torture but it can be fun just watching her explore her viv. Just turn off the lights in the room you are keeping her and sit still and watch.

This can be very boring, but the anticipation can be fun. I sit and watch inactive tanks all the time. I somehow get lost in how i would explore the tank. But when they start moving around, it is really neat.

Give her time.

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

I would give little Ember a week to settle in. I know it is torture but it can be fun just watching her explore her viv. Just turn off the lights in the room you are keeping her and sit still and watch.

This can be very boring, but the anticipation can be fun. I sit and watch inactive tanks all the time. I somehow get lost in how i would explore the tank. But when they start moving around, it is really neat.

Give her time.

I have a light on right near her cage, i thought that would help.
-runs off to go and turn off-

 

[Ohana]

I have a light on right near her cage, i thought that would help.
-runs off to go and turn off-

I only meant if you want her to come out. See if the lights are on in the room then she can see you. If you have a light on over her viv and the lights off in the room then she is less likely to see you.

Your baby girl doesn't need a light on over her viv, but it is nice so that you can see her.

Sorry for the confusion.

 

[JalapenoPeeps]

I only meant if you want her to come out. See if the lights are on in the room then she can see you. If you have a light on over her viv and the lights off in the room then she is less likely to see you.

Your baby girl doesn't need a light on over her viv, but it is nice so that you can see her.

Sorry for the confusion.

Well, it turns out that it was off anyway. I really just want her to be comfortable. She might just be a digger.

 

[Hoosierneals]

I find that Nitro has days where he's burrowed the whole time, and also days where he's out and about. Like others said, if your temps are ok then your snake will regulate itself, don't worry. We do notice that when it gets close to feeding day that Nitro comes out quite a bit more and does a lot of cruising around his cage- hunting I guess! Remember corns are quite nocturnal, so your snake may be out and around a lot more than you think while you are snoozing away. I am the night owl at our house and I see a lot more of Nitro than anyone else!
He's nosy- often he'll just peek his head out of the hide when someone comes in the room- just to check out what you're up to!

Enjoy your new corn!
Sara

 

[Weebonilass]

My new girl hasn't been seen since I put her in her new viv on Sunday! Of course, she had a very long trip to her new home and her seller thought she was getting ready to shed. I'm anxious for that to happen to see how dark she is with a new skin on.

 

[Hoosierneals]

Also, after he eats Nitro has a drink and then goes straight to his warm hide, curls up, and digests that lovely mousie for about two days!

We always say "see you in a few days Nitro!" when we return him to the viv after a feeding!

Hubby and I are always laughing - wouldn't that be great? Stuff yourself silly and then go take a nice long two day snooze afterward!

Sara