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Casper passed away... :(

D

drvillen

New member
After only 5 days my little snow corn died...
Ate a pinky Tuesday, regurgitated Wednesday and was dead when I came home from work today. I went back with him to the store, quite distraught, explained to them what had happened and they where very apologetic and replaced Casper. Still does not make the hurt feeling go away. Very sad day for me. Shadow is out of the container exploring the VIV. I removed everything and cleaned out the bedding. Put in fresh aspen and tossed the coconut out, after 5 days it started to show mould? Anyone else have this problem, could that have killed Casper? Sorry for having to post this....
I feel responsible.
 
Sorry for your loss! I wouldn't think a moldy coconut would kill a snake, but I wonder why it would get moldy? Was your viv really humid? Maybe if you describe your viv set-up and feeding regime, we could help your figure out if there was something done wrong. Maybe he just wasn't healthy in the first place. Again, sorry for you loss!
 
There may have been a preexisting condition you may have not been aware of. The coconut husk probably wasn't the cause but it isn't recommended for corn snakes because of the likely hood of molding if kept to damp. Remember to let your new corn settle for a week without handling and feeding then feed and wait another 3 days to handle. When feeding have the first meal be a little small to assure there are no problems.
When you fed are you feeding frozen/thawed and how is your viv set up. Are you using an UTH with rheostat, how many hides do you have?
 
I don't think anything you did could have killed your baby in just 5 days. Not all little ones are destined to make it, I've lost many hatchlings (I brought in a group of nonfeeders in December and lost nearly all of them). I'm so very sorry for your loss. Don't get discouraged.

You should clean the tank fully with a bleach solution (not sure of the exact dilution, I'm sure someone else will chime in here...I use F10 disinfectant, so I don't recall the bleach to water ratio), as well as anything else that Casper came in contact with. I don't think the mold would have killed him that quickly either, it was probably something internal, especially with the regurge.

Make sure you double check your temps for the new baby and give him/her plenty of time to settle in before handling and feeding.
 
I'm sorry your little one died. Glad that the pet store replaced him. It was probably a pre-existing condition as someone else said. But now you know more about letting them settle in, feeding and when to handle. I'm sure things will go better with the new one. Post some pics when he settles in. Keep us updated.

I use 10% bleach 90% water to clean my vivs, I have it in a spray bottle.
 
Thank you for all your kind words, the viv is the large exoterra, there is a #2 26 watt fluorescent and a 40 watt PT2104 Sun GloDaylight. I have an 8x8 UTH not on a reostat, couldn't find one. There is a plastic fern, which shadow is in right now. Was fed yesterday, you can see the bulge where the meal is. I will try to answer all your Q's...
The thermometer is about 2 inches from the bottom of the viv it read 73 degrees, warm enough? If not what to use to keep it warmer? The canopy says 26 watt bulbs max, there is already a 40 watt on the one side. There is a half "log" hide on the cool side of the floor in the viv and some of the fake vine and "foam" climbing stuff. Should there be a hide on top of the UTH as well or will Shadow just lie on the warmth in the open? Will let Shadow settle in for about 5 days as well no stressing the poor fella.
Weight is 9 grams, pet store said about 2 months old, sound right for the weight? I fed the other one a 1 gram pinky, I have 5 more left, too big for a 9 gram corn? Hope this will help spur some more responses. Thank you very much again for your help!
James
 
Ok that is very open and very tall. Corns need tanks, a more enclosed cage type that holds heat and moisture but not too much moisture. I use sterilite tubs and flexwatt heat tape on dimmers with thermometers on the bottom right where the heat tape is. I try to keep the warm side around 85. Humidity is usually 30 %. I don't use any unnatural lighting on my corns, or my fish tank for that matter. I use paper towels, shredded paper or whole paper for substrate. They have a TP tube on the warm end that is blocked at one end making it cave like, and their water dishes double as a hide on the cool side. The food size sounds right but I would not feed for the first time until the snake has settled in for 10 days, but that is me. All my snakes seemed to do great with that arrangement.

As to your first snake, I bet the poor dear had regurged at least once at the pet shop before coming to you.
 
carnivorouszoo said:
Ok that is very open and very tall. Corns need tanks, a more enclosed cage type that holds heat and moisture but not too much moisture. I use sterilite tubs and flexwatt heat tape on dimmers with thermometers on the bottom right where the heat tape is. I try to keep the warm side around 85. Humidity is usually 30 %. I don't use any unnatural lighting on my corns, or my fish tank for that matter. I use paper towels, shredded paper or whole paper for substrate. They have a TP tube on the warm end that is blocked at one end making it cave like, and their water dishes double as a hide on the cool side. The food size sounds right but I would not feed for the first time until the snake has settled in for 10 days, but that is me. All my snakes seemed to do great with that arrangement.

As to your first snake, I bet the poor dear had regurged at least once at the pet shop before coming to you.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info, I thought learning salt water was tough!! Right now the baby is only about 12 or 13 inches long, I will get a different tank when it is a bit larger.
 
So sorry about your baby! I know it has to be hard, but don't blame yourself. It probably had some underlying condition before even coming to you. Good luck with Shadow and keep us updated
 
you should make sure to measure the temperature of the UTH as stated above directly above where the heater sits on the glass under any bedding you may have. And yes there should be a hide on both ends of the tank and if UTH is up to at least 81 degrees there is no need for the above lamps. Measuring the temperatures on both ends of the tank are extremely important so if you could let us know what it is that would help.
And just a thought if the stores around you don't carry what you need eBay is among many sites that you can get your necessities especially since eBay takes paypal.
 
Do make sure to get a rheostat or thermostat...high temps do kill and cause regurges. Also after a regurge you need to follow the regurge protocol which can be found on here. No feeding for 8 days after a regurge and nutribac do wonders for the wee ones. I am very sorry for your loss and am glad the pet store replaced Casper- just tget those temps in check and the two of you will be very happy:)
 
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