ok, i get the general oppinion from this forum and most other people i have talked to that two clutches can be acheived in one year and still keep the snake safe and healthy. how should i do this? and when i hear the term cooling off, does that mean lowering the basking temperature? like raising the heat lamps? i have a major project with corns(small 4-5 snakes first then i will progress) please explain all this to me because it has always been an aspiration of mine.
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clutches
- Thread starter SLAYER85
- Start date
Susan
Go Ahead, Make My Day!
To get 2 clutches from a single female in the same year, you start to try to breed her again after her first post-laying shed. This is about 2 weeks after she lays her first clutch. Only attempt this if the female is of a GOOD size and has not dropped below her pre-first breeding weight. And definately do not double-clutch a first time breeder. The only reason I double-clutch my 5 yr old or older females is that, through experience, 90% of them have , and most likely will again, lay a second clutch whether I like it or not, so I figure that they might as well be fertile. And I still always follow my above mentioned conditions. If a female doesn't measure up, she lays slugs if she is going to lay.
The coolong off period refers to brumation (hibernation), which generally is done during the winter months, usually starting late Nov to Dec. Corns are fed a last meal, allowed to digest and pass the remains, then are gradually cooled down into about the 60's F at night with daytime highs into the upper 70's F, with an occasional allowed jump into the low 80"s (sometimes unavoidable here in Florida) Low's can go into the 50's F, but should never be for long periods. After about 2 months, temps are gradually raised back to normal, then feeding is resumed, starting with small prey. Breeding will start after the first post-brumation sheds.
For further, more detailed information, I would highly suggest that you purchase and read Kathy Love's Corn Snake Manual. It's $10 well spent.
The coolong off period refers to brumation (hibernation), which generally is done during the winter months, usually starting late Nov to Dec. Corns are fed a last meal, allowed to digest and pass the remains, then are gradually cooled down into about the 60's F at night with daytime highs into the upper 70's F, with an occasional allowed jump into the low 80"s (sometimes unavoidable here in Florida) Low's can go into the 50's F, but should never be for long periods. After about 2 months, temps are gradually raised back to normal, then feeding is resumed, starting with small prey. Breeding will start after the first post-brumation sheds.
For further, more detailed information, I would highly suggest that you purchase and read Kathy Love's Corn Snake Manual. It's $10 well spent.
Susan
Go Ahead, Make My Day!
You shouldn't have any trouble getting those temps in North Carolina. During the winter, what do you keep your house thermostat set at? If you are a fairly "normal" person, I would say somewhere in the upper 60's to upper 70's. That is a good range for brumation. You just take away or turn off all of your snake's other heat sources, leaving them at room temperature.
I do hope that when you build your snake shed that it is well insulated and able to have both heat for the winter and cool air for the summer. Otherwise, you may be better off leaving them in your house.
I do hope that when you build your snake shed that it is well insulated and able to have both heat for the winter and cool air for the summer. Otherwise, you may be better off leaving them in your house.
IMHO, the ideal temp is around 55 degrees. However, I live in a townhouse and can't get that temp. So, the temps Susan mentions have worked for me the last two years.(Mind you this is for Corns. (Mt. Kings NEED lower temps. IF you have those.) I would say the minimum temps should be no lower than 40 for a VERY short time
For example - A place I used to have available to me got down to about 42 degrees for a night or two. While I didn't lose any animals I would STRONGLY suggest AGAINST this low of a temp.
I would think that if you did not insulate your building that if it got to 30 or below your building inside would also be around 30 or below. Far to cold for your snakes.
Heat would also be a problem w/o insulation. In fact, maybe worse. Outside it may only be 80 or so but inside it could get much hotter. Most Corns I don't think like temps above 87-90 degrees F. for to long.
I would suggest that you do as many breeders do! That is, when you get your building set up, if not before, get many thermometers and set them up at FLOOR LEVEL inside several of the cages you would be using. This would help you know exactly what temps your snakes are at.
Okay. I guess I've rambled enough. Susan sounds like she knows what she is talking about. I would suggest you follow her advise. Not only on your building but on breeding for a second clutch.
L8r,
wc
For example - A place I used to have available to me got down to about 42 degrees for a night or two. While I didn't lose any animals I would STRONGLY suggest AGAINST this low of a temp.
I would think that if you did not insulate your building that if it got to 30 or below your building inside would also be around 30 or below. Far to cold for your snakes.
Heat would also be a problem w/o insulation. In fact, maybe worse. Outside it may only be 80 or so but inside it could get much hotter. Most Corns I don't think like temps above 87-90 degrees F. for to long.
I would suggest that you do as many breeders do! That is, when you get your building set up, if not before, get many thermometers and set them up at FLOOR LEVEL inside several of the cages you would be using. This would help you know exactly what temps your snakes are at.
Okay. I guess I've rambled enough. Susan sounds like she knows what she is talking about. I would suggest you follow her advise. Not only on your building but on breeding for a second clutch.
L8r,
wc