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Coral Snow Corn Not Eating

SerpentLady4

New member
I have a beautiful marked extremely docile 5/1/2 month old hatchling coral snow corn from SMR. He arrived on 09/23 and hasn't eaten since. He has a cool and warm hide. I was told by Don to keep his warm side in the hide between 81-84. I have been using an over head light but been having problems with getting between the mentioned temperature. I had to force feed him last night. And Don hasn't been very helpful and he's stopped answering my email. What should I do
 
Addendum:
I just went through your previous posts and saw you state that a Coral Snow you got from SMR is eating pinks http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137909. And a seperate post you mention a 10 gallon set-up and an animal that gets fed pinks every five to seven days. Are these posts referencing the same animal you purchased from SMR?

Don Soderberg and "not being helpful" are opposite statements in my experience.
Please describe your set-up? How are you determining the temp? Heating a corn snake is so much easier and more efficient when using an UTH. This is especially true if you have this animal in a ten gallon tank. Lamp heating can cause the tank to be way too hot and then there is the issue of no cool end.
How are you feeding this corn? Deli cups usually work best in feeding hatchling. The confined space helps them to focus on finding and eating.
I live in Naperville, one town north of Bolingbrook. I'd be happy to help you. Maybe come by and check out your set-up and offer advice on care.

Terri
 
Last edited:
The first coral snow didn't make it impaction from aspen bedding killed him. This is his older sibling replacement. Don told me that the mini hide needs to be between 81-84. The UT gives a temperature of 90. I have a thermometer in the hide, and above attached to a temperature controller. There is also a cool side too. Yes I have tried the deli cup twice and it hasn't worked. He arrived on the 23rd of last month and he hasn't eaten since. I had to start his gut somehow so I forced fed. I don't think that my husband will approve of your visit
 
I'd say get rid of the lamp if your temps are 90F anywhere in a ten gallon tank. Heat extremes, as well as too cold, will cause an animals not to eat. This is especially true with hatchlings.

Terri
 
It's not the lamp UT's give temperature of 90 I checked with the thermometer inside the mini hide and with the UT alone the temperature read 90's. When I turned off the UT and just the light the temperature dropped
 
I have been MORE than helpful with you, Jennifer

I have six emails where I asked you what the temperature IN the hide was (INSIDE) and six times you told me the temperature. I kept saying that the only way to find out was to put a thermometer IN the hide. Finally the seventh time, you confessed that you were measuring temperatures ABOVE the hide and that was surely close enough (while you were wondering why the snake would not stay in the hide). When I asked why you had sand in the bottom of the cage you said your last snake died of aspen impaction. I told you that your hide was "cavernous" and that the snake was probably not staying in it for many reasons (including the absence of a fluffy substrate matter that would have made the inside of the hide cozier and darker inside). I mentioned a UT heater several times in our 25+ emails and FB messages and you never bothered to correct me to say you use a light over the cage. Reading this thread is the first time I discovered you were using an OT light. The bottom line is that I can only help people who answer questions honestly, and who are forth-coming when I keep asking questions about their cage. In my last email, I told you that I cannot help you since you insist on withholding information that was crucial to the welfare of the snake. Now, the six weeks you have wasted via not co-operating has probably jeopardized the chances of saving this snake.

Generally, if a snake is not spending at least 75% of all daytime hours IN the warm hide, the warm hide is WRONG; too hot, too cold, too cavernous, not dark enough, etc. Because the hide you showed me has a large opening that faces the light in the room and because there is nothing in the hide other than 1/2" of sand beneath the snake, the hide was not conducive to "hiding". If they are not staying in the DARK hide with a temperature conducive to appetite and digestion, they will likely not eat (or will puke what they do eat). In one of your emails two days ago when I questioned why you were using sand for a substrate, you said, "to each his own". You never once told me you were using sand, until that day. I agree that you can set up that cage in any fashion you desire, but not when you are expecting me to replace a snake that has an inadequate cage because you declined my advice. In fact, you didn't decline my advice. You just didn't bother to tell me you were ignoring it.

You only paid $35 to cover shipping for this free snake that I sent because the other one died from aspen impaction (after you successfully fed it many times). I did not have to replace the other snake since you had it so long and fed it so many times. The snake you are referring to in this thread ate for me for many months without refusing a single meal, prior to being shipped to you. Over 30 emails back and forth between us, Jennifer, and a FREE SALMON SNOW MOTLEY does not justify you saying that I have not been helpful.
 
Stop putting words in my mouth, I didn't say sand. The first died from impaction from aspen bedding and that is why I use cage lining. I do have a thermometer inside the mini hide and I do check the temperature it is around 83 (it reads between 80&84). I have the temperature during the day and during the night at 82°. I also have a cool side. I read with the UT alone the temperature reads 91° inside the hide. So I just use the light and it is dark underneath with no light. This one didn't spit out the food.
 
Cage Picture . . .

Then, perhaps others will be able to offer suggestions of how you can change the cage to get the snake to eat?
 
Look, I don't know what your problem is. I have five others from you. The first two were raised on liner and are doing extremely well. The other three the same way on cage liner and doing extremely well too. Liner is easier to clean than aspen bedding and since you don't have coverage for death by impaction from aspen bedding. I don't want to take any chances with this one dying like the other did
 
Look, I don't know what your problem is. I have five others from you. The first two were raised on liner and are doing extremely well. The other three the same way on cage liner and doing extremely well too. Liner is easier to clean than aspen bedding and since you don't have coverage for death by impaction from aspen bedding. I don't want to take any chances with this one dying like the other did

Can I ask what cage lining is? Is it like newspaper?
Thanks
John
 
I cannot see the picture for some reason, but from the sounds of it, you have an undertank heater AND an overhead heat fixture, is that correct? (In a 10 gallon tank?)
If so, I can tell you right now, that is too much heat and is most likely the reason your baby is not eating for you.

Saying that Don is not helpful sets off warning bells for me, because he has been nothing but helpful to me, and I have bugged him a few times for information.

Terri has also offered you very good information, and it is very nice of her to offer to drive to you to help. She is a well-known, well-respected member of the Cornsnake community as well.

If you are not going to be open to suggestions on proper care, from people who know what they are talking about, then you have no one but yourself to blame if/when that baby dies.
 
1. Don Soderberg is the most patient of teachers, and I can't imagine the lengths you have gone to to cause an alienation between you two.

2. Terri offering to come help you sort out your set-up is invaluable. I can assure you that she is not a serial killer, and you would be perfectly safe in allowing her to help you. To turn down an offer like that is to turn away a resource that cannot be found on-line, or in a book.

3. Yes, you have the right to set up your snake in the manner you choose, and it is true that many people choose simple newspaper for substrate for the reasons you outline. Still- the baby is not comfortable, which is reflected in its refusal to eat. Since we don't have a photo of the set up, I would suggest that to make the baby feel safe, it would be best to offer several tight, dark hides, like toilet paper or paper towel tubes, squashed flat. Toothpaste boxes. Things like that. If you have store-bought hides, you can fill those with crumpled paper or shredded paper. Then, if you put silk or plastic vines on the sides and the floor, she should feel a lot safer. I think others have covered the heating/temp measuring subject well.
 
Can I ask what cage lining is? Is it like newspaper?
Thanks
John
From looking at the OP's avatar pic, I'm guessing AstroTurf.
Saying that Don is not helpful sets off warning bells for me, because he has been nothing but helpful to me, and I have bugged him a few times for information.

I've been bugging him with questions since at least 1999. To say he is helpful and patient is an understatement.

And I also agree that your husband shouldn't be worried about a woman coming over with great experience in the hobby to try to save your pet.

I would not have suggested force feeding. A one month fast is alarming for a hatching, but not time to force feed -at least on a snake that has voluntarily fed previously. You will typically really set them back by doing that. Once you know that the cage and temp gradient is right, try offering boiled, scented, live and other tricks, but force feeding is a last resort.
 
Picture of cage

Jennifer, since you sent the picture to me, I cannot show it to everyone without your prior consent. The picture shows less than 1/4" of sand in the bottom.

May I post the picture on this thread?

I also re-read my post and see that you have only had it four months. That's still a dangerously long time for fasting in such a small snake. Regarding force-feeding, that is something nobody but experts should do. As others have cited, often when you force-feed, the stress is akin to taking one step forward by getting calories in the snake, but two steps back from the stress. If this snake pukes that pinky, your world is about to turn upside-down in the realm of stress for you. The other reason force-feeding was not indicated for this snake is that you have not yet stabilized the hide and cage temps. Puking this mouse is almost a foregone conclusion.

We are here to help you. Me, I give up, but everyone participating in this thread (and others who WILL) can help you. But they can only help you if you at least try to follow advice (and accurately report cage conditions).

May I post the picture of your cage?
 
If aspen impaction worries you, why not just feed in a separate enclosure? I keep all my babies in aspen, they eat in deli cups. Sometimes they have to be left in the deli cup covered and overnight if they are shy.

I have spent some time talking on the phone with Don about his terrazzo snakes and he was nothing but helpful to me, even though I wasn't even a paying customer. If you won't let him show us the picture and you won't let someone come over then how is anyone supposed to help.

Also force feeding is a LAST resort, can hurt and traumatize a baby snake and put it off from food.
 
I have a tiny baby hide that is extremely tight and dark. Right now the bedding will arrive on Tuesday and the UT on Wednesday. The one I have now bit the dust and doesn't warm up at all. Before it bit the dust the temperature inside their hide read between 80-84. The rest of the cage is holding at 82
 
My heat sources are both attached to a temperature controller that is set for between 81-84 and will.shut when set temperature is reached
 
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