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Egg incubation frusteration...

Whats the best way to incubate.

  • container with no holes and water put in once

    Votes: 1 14.3%
  • container with holes with water applied throughout

    Votes: 6 85.7%

  • Total voters
    7

picklestick

New member
Hello, i am fairly new to the herp game.. I've been keeping cornsnakes (babies and adults) for about a year and a half now.. I have had several clutches of eggs slip through my unprepared fingers. When my first corns arrived, i was told one was a male and the other a female. Well when two weeks later both of them (male and female huh) dropped clutches i had no clue what to do.. I lost them both (clutches, not snakes).. Thinking i'd be ready the next time, i bought a hova bator incubator and lost that clutch probably because since both snakes were female, i can't see how the eggs could be fertile. And now i just bought a new breeder pair and have another on the way.. Can someone please tell me what the heck to do before i destroy some more eggs! I have pearlite, vermiculite, the hova bator and disposable tupperwares... I just don't know how to fit the pieces together! Help!!..
 
I've been breeding corns for 6 years now and have yet to buy an incubator. I live in Florida and have chosen to go the "easy" way...incubate on a shelf at "room temp". Of coarse, the room I use is my snake room, which is kept warmer than the rest of the house, i.e., temp range of upper 70's at night to mid-upper 80's during the day. This way, I don't have to heat my snake cages individually. It's been said that incubating at average "normal" room temp (somewhere in the 70's) is fine for corns, it just takes a little longer for them to hatch. Putting them on something warmer, such as the top of the refridgerator, will bring the temp up closer to the ideal range.

I incubate my eggs in moist sphagnum moss (a layer under and on top of the eggs). I mist the moss when needed to keep it moist (as much water as the moss will hold after being thoroughly soaked and wrung out as much as possible by hand). I also use disposable tupperware with small holes placed in it for ventilation (no larger than about 1/8 diameter holes...don't want any excaping newborns!). My females actually lay their eggs in this container. I just remove the snake afterward laying, do any re-arranging necessary, put the lid on, and set the container on a shelf in the snake room. I check it every week or two, count the days, and in about 9-10 weeks...babies!
 
thanks for the info

Yeah, i keep my snake room in the upper seventies and was halfway thinking of just going that way.. I figure if i keep the eggs by my space heater, they'll stay pretty warm and consitently warm at that.. I got a digital thermometer I can use to check on that as well. But I really appreciate you getting back to me on it.. Also, do you think I'd have a problem using vermiculite or pearlite (hah, its all i have right now) and if i can use them, which of the two would be best.. Thanks again.. Ty..
 
I had the same thing happen to me the first time my corns mated
I wasn't prepared at all lost 13 eggs. It was rough because the second clutch of 6 hatched out fine and the result were unreal.
bred normal brown female with amel male and got 1 like mom, 2 like dad, 1 anery motley,1 beautiful amel or cremesicle stripe,and 1 amel hurricane motley. So it makes me wonder what could have been in those first 13.
Anyway take a look at my website this is how i done it. my house is very drafty so room temp incubation is out.

http://www.geocities.com/cornsnakeman2003/

click on breeding tips

Hoss
 
I use vermiculite, moistened in a 1-1 ratio with water by weight, and mixed well.

I found I had too many mold problems when I used sphagnum moss even though I thought it was meant to have anti-mold properties. Anyway, the vermiculite worked very well for me this year, and I will be using it again next year.

I use an incubator, kept at 82. Hatching occurs 60 day later.

Skye
 
I use vermiculite at 1.1 with water.
Temp. 28c (i dont know what that is in f).
four 3mm holes in container.
News paper covering eggs,( if paper dry add water).
I find that i do not need to add any more water with this method.
 
Just wanted to say thanks

Hey, i just wanted to say thanks to everyone who replied to my thread.. The info varies quite a bit, but im deffinetly pulling together an idea of what i should be doing.. A friend of mine just told me how to build an incubator out of my old broken dorm sized fridge.. So im looking forward to adding that to my arsenal. I got some more snakes on the way too... Best wishes to everyone.. Ty..
 
Fatso - 28 C is 82 F - it is one of only two temperatures that you can switch the numbers around to get the conversion when going from C to F or vice versa. The other one is 16 C = 61 F.

Anyway, just wanted to let you know that we use the same temperature. I also do the paper on top thing - just use paper towels not newspaper. When it is dry I mist it to make it damp again.

Good Luck, picklestick

Skye
 
I've occasionally gotten mold growing in the sphagnum moss, but most often from bags left over from the previous year, even if unopened. It's never caused a problem with the eggs. I just remove the moldy moss and put in fresh. I used vermiculite when I was breeding veiled chameleons, and would end up with moldy eggs with that too.

I did try perlite one year with my chameleons, and hated it. The particles had more of a tendancy to get stuck on the new hatchlings, and was a real pain to get off.
 
thanks Susan,
that might have been my problem too - this wasn't freshly purchased moss as I bought a whole 20lb. bale a while back, and have been using it ever since.
I thought it would make more economic sense to buy in bulk, but I guess it didn't help if "older" moss tends to grow more mold. Anyway, I don't use it for incubation now, and have no plans to use it for that purpose in the future - I'll stick to vermiculite. I do use it in the laying tubs though.
I had heard bad things about perlite being a pain so you have just reinforced that opinion.
Skye
 
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