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first corn: baby or adult?
- Thread starter Sandra
- Start date
Skye
New member
It can be fun to get a smaller one and watch it grow right from hatchlingness. However, if you choose to take that route, get one from someone who can guarantee that it is already feeding, and has done so at least 3 and preferably 5 times. I.E. Do not buy a BRAND NEW hatchling in case it is a non-eater. You wouldn't want to start off with that situation for your first corn snake.
Also, make sure you buy the corn snake manual by Kathy Love and have some fun and informative reading before you get your snake.
Best Wishes, Skye
Also, make sure you buy the corn snake manual by Kathy Love and have some fun and informative reading before you get your snake.
Best Wishes, Skye
Taceas
USW = UB313
From personal experience, if you can find one for a decent price I would say get a yearling to an adult. Sure watching a hatchling grow up is fun, but I look at other aspects in the equation as well.
My Reasoning:
1. Young snakes tend to be very sensitive to handling. They stress out a lot easier than older snakes. Older snakes just kind of take it in stride.
2. Young snakes aren't as adaptable to a new environment if you're a first timer. Some things you have to learn as you go along, and with babies there's less leeway in this. Adults can adapt to whatever situation for the most part with less drastic issues. So if your temps aren't exactly right or something else is wrong, the adult won't be nearly as harmed by it as a younger snake might be.
3. Young snakes tend to be very flighty and nippy. At least all the one's I've have. And if you've got kids who're always going to want to touch it or hold it (maybe in not the right way most of the time) it could be disastrous for both the snake and the kids. If it rears back and bites, while it doesn't hurt all that much it's startling none the less..and invariably the child will drop it. An adult snake is MUCH easier to locate than a baby.
4. Feeding issues. I have never had a feeding issue with my adult snakes that couldn't be explained. My males will sometimes go off feed during mating season, most often not, but sometimes. My female doesn't eat right before she lays or sheds. But with my younger snakes, if something isn't just right you end up with a regurge or not wanting to feed entirely.
5. Risk of harm. If this is your first snake, I find them a lot tougher in the area of being handled. Sometimes kids don't know their own strength, and may inadvertently squeeze the snake too hard or some other thing. I just think adults are more resilient to this sort of treatment.
And honestly, I just think adults are more hardy in general. Once you've got an adult mastered, and you and the kids get the hang of their habits and requirements by all means go ahead and try your luck with a baby snake.
Hope that helps a little. =)
PS: I'm going to be posting an adult male snow up for sale sometime this weekend. If you're interested beforehand e-mail me and I'll talk to you about it.
My Reasoning:
1. Young snakes tend to be very sensitive to handling. They stress out a lot easier than older snakes. Older snakes just kind of take it in stride.
2. Young snakes aren't as adaptable to a new environment if you're a first timer. Some things you have to learn as you go along, and with babies there's less leeway in this. Adults can adapt to whatever situation for the most part with less drastic issues. So if your temps aren't exactly right or something else is wrong, the adult won't be nearly as harmed by it as a younger snake might be.
3. Young snakes tend to be very flighty and nippy. At least all the one's I've have. And if you've got kids who're always going to want to touch it or hold it (maybe in not the right way most of the time) it could be disastrous for both the snake and the kids. If it rears back and bites, while it doesn't hurt all that much it's startling none the less..and invariably the child will drop it. An adult snake is MUCH easier to locate than a baby.
4. Feeding issues. I have never had a feeding issue with my adult snakes that couldn't be explained. My males will sometimes go off feed during mating season, most often not, but sometimes. My female doesn't eat right before she lays or sheds. But with my younger snakes, if something isn't just right you end up with a regurge or not wanting to feed entirely.
5. Risk of harm. If this is your first snake, I find them a lot tougher in the area of being handled. Sometimes kids don't know their own strength, and may inadvertently squeeze the snake too hard or some other thing. I just think adults are more resilient to this sort of treatment.
And honestly, I just think adults are more hardy in general. Once you've got an adult mastered, and you and the kids get the hang of their habits and requirements by all means go ahead and try your luck with a baby snake.
Hope that helps a little. =)
PS: I'm going to be posting an adult male snow up for sale sometime this weekend. If you're interested beforehand e-mail me and I'll talk to you about it.
Every coin has two sides. .
My experiences with adult corn snakes (and with other species too) are almost opposite. If you buy an adult animal, you should always remember that there might be a reason why somebody wants to get rid of it. There might be a hidden defect. Usually owner knows it, but he doesn't tell it because of healthy animal is much easier to sell.
My experiences with adult corn snakes (and with other species too) are almost opposite. If you buy an adult animal, you should always remember that there might be a reason why somebody wants to get rid of it. There might be a hidden defect. Usually owner knows it, but he doesn't tell it because of healthy animal is much easier to sell.
CornCrazy
What's one more???
I have to agree with Taceas...
I would go for yearling to sub-adult, though. That way you get a hardier, tamer snake, but you still get to see it grow up some.
Touching on what Matias said...before you buy from anyone, make sure that person is reputable.
(P.S. - I can vouch for Taceas, as I have bought snakes from her. She has also sent me some mice!!)
I would go for yearling to sub-adult, though. That way you get a hardier, tamer snake, but you still get to see it grow up some.
Touching on what Matias said...before you buy from anyone, make sure that person is reputable.
(P.S. - I can vouch for Taceas, as I have bought snakes from her. She has also sent me some mice!!)
mattsnake
snake hunter
I would recomend a yearling
For the first snake, a yearling would be best. You do not have to fool around trying to make it eat, and in most cases you will not have to worry about stress.
Some hatchlings can be perfect eaters and handle stress fine- but it is probably better not to take the risk and get a yearling or older.
For the first snake, a yearling would be best. You do not have to fool around trying to make it eat, and in most cases you will not have to worry about stress.
Some hatchlings can be perfect eaters and handle stress fine- but it is probably better not to take the risk and get a yearling or older.
Sandra
corn neophyte
well you have convinced me to go with a yearling. We will be going with a VERY reputable breeder - I'm communicating with her about her snakes already. It looks like we will be going with a Normal. I'm most attracted to the Okeetees, but have been told they tend to be feisty. That's good to know - I don't want my children to be scared of "my" new pet.
Thanks, everyone! You are all incredibly helpful!
Thanks, everyone! You are all incredibly helpful!