First snake, some basic questions

[Zenpai]

Hey guys!

This will be my first ever snake (although not reptile), and I want to learn the absolute necessities and some nuances that people seem to forget to tell first owners. For example, how the Spider morph in ball pythons have the wobble, how they need their glass cages surrounded by paper to block the snake from seeing outside in all corners, etc.

I live in the arid state of Colorado, so the low humidity of keeping a corn is quite nice. I want to buy a tank from hatchling to adult, and I was wondering if a 30 gallon would be fine, provided with a lot of decor to close the open space so the snake won't be stressed out. I would be buying a digital thermometer probe and humidity gauge, UTH heater with a temperature gauge attached, blue daylight heating lamp for viewing in the morning (I like my room dark) and a red infrared low-wattage bulb for night time viewing, two hides on the cooler side and warmer side, a heavy water dish thats not too big to drown it, and aspen bedding for a more naturalistic look than paper towels.

Do you feed the snake after the first two days? The first week? The first day of having it? What should I know about handling? My first reptile was an adult gargoyle gecko and she was very friendly, I then got two baby cresties that I was able to handle well. I just don't know how to support a snake's body properly which worries me.

Any other details or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Scrappyeddie77]

I don't use lights but I live in Florida and I don't know of any morphs that cause any crazy side affects most breeders don't like to make defected babies the only one I know of is the star gazers


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[Karl_Mcknight]

Hey guys!
...........................

I live in the arid state of Colorado, so the low humidity of keeping a corn is quite nice.

Who told you that? Corn snakes actually come from the southeastern USA where the humidity can range from 30% to 100%. They actually do best when the humidity is around 40 to 50%.

I want to buy a tank from hatchling to adult, and I was wondering if a 30 gallon would be fine, provided with a lot of decor to close the open space so the snake won't be stressed out.

Yes, that's probably the perfect size for a corn snake.

I would be buying a digital thermometer probe and humidity gauge, UTH heater with a temperature gauge attached, blue daylight heating lamp for viewing in the morning (I like my room dark) and a red infrared low-wattage bulb for night time viewing, two hides on the cooler side and warmer side, a heavy water dish thats not too big to drown it, and aspen bedding for a more naturalistic look than paper towels.

Corn snakes do not require bulbs. Natural room light is ok. The UTH will provide the necessary warmth. There's no reason to run a light at night. The snake needs a 12 hour darkness to keep its metabolism and body clock in order. Natural room light is sufficient. If the room is dark, then a daytime light is ok so long as it does not produce a lot of additional heat. (All light produces heat). I recommend putting your daytime light on a timer, 12 hours on, 12 hours off.

Do you feed the snake after the first two days? The first week? The first day of having it? What should I know about handling? My first reptile was an adult gargoyle gecko and she was very friendly, I then got two baby cresties that I was able to handle well. I just don't know how to support a snake's body properly which worries me.

Any other details or advice is appreciated. Thanks!

Most of the folks around here will tell you to let the snake get acclimated to its new environment and not to handle it or feed it for the first 2 weeks. Simply place it in its new home and leave it alone for 2 weeks.

Now I'll tell you what I did -

I was told by the breeder that my corn snake had not eaten in a week, so I fed my snake "The Day After" I got him and he ate fine.

When handling a snake just let them crawl through your fingers. Do not squeeze them too hard. Place one hand in front of the other and let the snake explore. Once he gets to know you and gets used to you, they pretty much sit still. My snake is big enough now to wrap around my neck and he will stay that way for hours if I were to let him.

 

[DollysMom]

Just to add to Karl's already great answer, I have found that for ease of shedding 50% humidity is perfect. I don't have a problem in the summer, even with air conditioning. In the winter, I've taken to taping (just to keep it in place, magic tape on the outside, never use tape on the inside of the enclosure) food safe plastic wrap over most of the screen top. About one inch open at the front keeps it perfect at 50% in my otherwise 25% humidity in the winter. The humidity comes from the water dish and I do provide a damp sphagnum moss humid hide.

Also about the heat mat, I use a thermometer to monitor the temperature and a thermostat to regulate the temp.

Below are links to examples.

The Amazon listing is a thermostat that many of us have used. I use this particular model, but there are similar available.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MT...7546515&sr=8-1&keywords=jump+start+thermostat

This is not an endorsement this particular eBay listing, just an example of what I've bought. There are numerous eBay sellers, selling thermometers like this.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-pcs-LCD-D...272132?hash=item3ab2d2f204:g:XMAAAOSwzvlW-d5p

 

[Dragonling]

If I'm completely honest, I have ignored the settling in rules since I got my second snake. I always feed and handle pretty much right away.

 

[chrislu0]

Recently, I just feed a snake. There is many things I need to learn.

 

[Twolunger]

Karl gave you some excellent advice already. When I receive a new corn I handle it right out of the shipping container. If it is calm I'll feed it the same day. If it seems flighty and doesn't want to be handled I just let it acclimate for a couple days before feeding. I have used a small fluorescent bulb that specifically mimics the sunlight spectrum when I had a display tank in the living room. The snake didn't need the light, but it was meant for the plants in the tank, and for watching the snake's antics.

 

[daddio207]

Odds are that most snakes will acclimate and eat fairly quickly after purchase.
As someone who has kept 100's of snakes over decades and has experienced what can happen when you don't acclimate properly I prefer to stay on the side of caution.
This rule is especially true when it comes to hatchlings.. Even if the odds are 1 in 100 why take the chance.
As caretakers of our snakes it is up to us to do what is right for the animal and not us.
Single snake owners and newby collector breeders just don't have the long term experience with multiple snakes to know what negative consequences can happen by not acclimating new purchases especially hatchlings!