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Gap at the top of the tubs

Mutumbo

New member
Recently i built a simple melamine 41qt sterilite tub rack system. Intended to house 2 yearling corns, 2 hatchling ball pythons and a adult corn. Some of the gaps between the tubs and melamine are aroun 1/8th-1/4in between the top of the tub and the melamine. Will this be too much? If so does anyone have any ideas on what to do short of ripping it appart and rebuilding it? I may have cut the shelves a little wide, as the sides of the tubs are kinda flimsy, to the point you could create a bigger gap if pushed on. I may need to recut the shelves and add a middle brace to stop the snakes from pushing them tok far out..

Any thoughts/tips/ideas? Thanks everyone.
 
Recently i built a simple melamine 41qt sterilite tub rack system. Intended to house 2 yearling corns, 2 hatchling ball pythons and a adult corn. Some of the gaps between the tubs and melamine are aroun 1/8th-1/4in between the top of the tub and the melamine. Will this be too much? If so does anyone have any ideas on what to do short of ripping it appart and rebuilding it? I may have cut the shelves a little wide, as the sides of the tubs are kinda flimsy, to the point you could create a bigger gap if pushed on. I may need to recut the shelves and add a middle brace to stop the snakes from pushing them tok far out..

Any thoughts/tips/ideas? Thanks everyone.

Yeah it very well could be to much for babies but you can use some shims to wedge under the tubs to pick them up so they are flush with the top.
 
You can put a piece of cardboard cut to the footprint of the bin underneath each one (which works nicely) or take that rubbery shelf liner and put one or two layers of that over the whole shelf, and secure it with aluminum tape at the back and front, wrapped under the front lip. That also works nicely.

I have had two hatchling escapes out of a commercial hatchling rack- one a newly-hatched corn, before shimming, and one a big, several months old hatchling, with thin cardboard shimming. Now I allow NO gap at all.
 
Thanks Nanci! Ill definitely look into the cardboard thing as well. I really dont want to go through loosing a snake because they got through a gap i thought they couldnt. So im b
 
Thanks Nanci! Ill definitely look into the cardboard thing as well. I really dont want to go through loosing a snake because they got through a gap i thought they couldnt. So im pretty paranoid about everything. Ive still got to lay the flexwatt, so im hoping that plus the aluminum tape gets me a little height. How would you do the flexwatt ith cardboard? Tape the flexwatt on top of the cardboard or below it?
 
My hatchling racks have the flexwatt on the back wall, running vertically.

My adult racks have heat cable, but it's routed in. It zig zags across the back floor, down the wall, across the next floor, down the wall. The cardboard may touch it, but with a thermostat, that's okay.

My very first hatchling escaped!! I almost died. I ripped my room apart until I found him. I mean, the first baby I hatched.
 
My hatchling racks have the flexwatt on the back wall, running vertically.

My adult racks have heat cable, but it's routed in. It zig zags across the back floor, down the wall, across the next floor, down the wall. The cardboard may touch it, but with a thermostat, that's okay.

My very first hatchling escaped!! I almost died. I ripped my room apart until I found him. I mean, the first baby I hatched.

Gotcha. Im goig with flexwatt under the tanks for this setup, it jusr seemed like the easiest idea. It will all be controled with a hydrofarm thermostat so i shouldnt have an issue. If it gets hot enough to affect the cardboard, well ive got a TON of other problems, like a host of dead snakes.....thanks for the tip :)

Knox, i dont think the video loaded rigt, at least not from wha i can see on my phone.
 
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