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hatchlings wont eatt

Kailaa

New member
as the title says
i got 2 new hatchlings at a recent reptiles how and theyre not eating
what tricks are particularly useful with hatchlings?
 
no i hadnt looked at tht but i tried everything but thre live mouse, i even scented the pinkies onmmy pet mouse and i noticed the snakes going crazy when the mouse was near so i put the containers on top of the cage for a while
still nothing
how long do pinkies live away from their mother?
cause picking uplive isnt very convieneint for me
 
In addition to the fact sheet here - you might want to contact the breeder that you purchased them from - they should be able to tell you what the snakes were being fed and the frequency with which they were fed - should have included that information with the snakes when they were sold actually. Some corns that start on live pinks can need a few feedings to convert over to pre-killed. Pinkies shoudl be fed the same day that they are removed from the mom - and kept at body temperature until they are used as feeders. They may live longer than that, but they typically need to nurse frequently and you lose much of the nutritional value in the pinkie when they digest all the milk in their stomach and poop it out.

It is possible that the snakes you bought are going into a shed - many of the hatchlings we sold at the Red Deer show a few weeks ago were due to shed. They often will not feed when in shed - and depending on the color morph - it can be hard to see when they are blue. This, combined with the stress of travel to and from a show can make them reluctant to feed. We recommend giving them at least 3 days with no handling after purchase, then offering food only every 4-5 days. They will typically feed by the third meal they are offered if they have been well started on thawed pinkies.

best of luck with the little ones,

mary v.
 
well i got them on the 26th and attempted to feed them on the 1st
theyve not been handled and refused food again last night on the 7th
i think ill have to go down and get some live pinkies because these snakes dont seem to even recognize the p/k ones as something theyre sposed to eat
im worried about the smallest one hes tinyyyy
 
In addition to the fact sheet here - you might want to contact the breeder that you purchased them from - they should be able to tell you what the snakes were being fed and the frequency with which they were fed - should have included that information with the snakes when they were sold actually.


Mary has nailed it on the head.. Find out from the breeder about feed dates, feeding methods, and shed schedule.. I totally agree with Mary that the information should have been passed along with from the breeder when you got them!

Good post Mary... :cheers: You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to vanderkm again.

Regards Tim of T and J
 
well one of the breeders i have no way of contacting, the other i doubt would be much help with 800 hatchlings to look after.

Now I'm reallt getting frustrated though, i hate the petstores in this city. The only one i can get to reasonably easily that sells live pinkies does nothing but dick us around
"we'll have them tomorrow"
"oh sorry still not here, check back tomorrow"
:flames:
not to mention i only have 2 days off a week and it still takes me about an hour to get tjhere on public transit
 
Have u tried puting the snake with the p/k inside the dely cup. Go to were u get ur live pinkies get the smallest u can get place the p/k inside a dely cup with ur snake leave it alone and check on it once in a while. Make sure the temps are right above 82 or so not to hot. If ur snake is in blue it probably won't eat. keep the habitat moist not to much by spraying room temp water into the habitat. I have a log which I soak and put under the bolb to create humidity it works fine 4 me.

Good luck!
 
How long had you had them before you fed them? I would leave them completely alone without handling them for at least 3-4 days and sometimes up to a week if they seem really jumpy. I had one of my hatchlings that would only eat if you held her in your hand. A few of the ones I have left will only eat live. I'm slowly trying to transfer them to f/t. I might try the washing well with soap and rinsing and drying to see if that gets them to eat. A few of mine will only eat if it's completely dark such as a box. I just put their little container in a box and leave them for an hour or so. Braining works sometimes or in extreme cases...anole scenting. Are they housed seperately or together?
 
My little amel Rainoo did not eat for me for 2 weeks after I got her and before that she was a real good feeder, after the two week mark she started feeding again as if she had never stopped. chances are your little ones are just nervous of their new home and need time to settle in and feel calm and safe. By the way Rainoo does not know she is not meant to eat when in blue and eats then and in the later stages of her shed cycle as well little madam that she is.
 
You have tried EVERYTHING? :) There are sure a lot of ways to try. I think I could try something different almost every couple days for months and still not run out of things to try! lol!

Frozen thawed
Live
front half of pink
back half of pink
pink cut in half lengthwise
brained
scented with mouse shavings <live and dead>
scented with rat shavings <live and dead>
scented with gerbil shavings <live and dead>
scented with anole <live and dead>
scented with frog <live and dead>
with pieces of shed lizard stuck on <live and dead>
scented with tuna juice <with and without brine>
brushed with scrambled egg
all methods above used in deli cup overnight in pitch black room or drawer
tease feeding
gently putting the pinky head in the snakes mouth
thouroughly washing the pinky with ivory soap, rinsing well
try feeding a frog or tadpole <obviously it would need to be appropriate size>
feed an anole
Bopp the snake on the head with pink a few times
move pink slightly with forceps just behind dish, cave or other blocker <snake may believe it is hunting>
force feeding two to three times then try all above methods again

I have seen even more methods than these as I said, I doubt you have tried EVERYTHING in such a short time! :) By the way I have been advised by more than one person I hold in very high esteem to only try every two to three days and not handle the baby for any reason in between.

Also make sure your husbandry methods are as they should be. Ie. both ambient temperatures and warm areas are at the right levels maintained by thermostats or rheostats, proper ventilation, hiding spots available. Fresh clean water. Some people believe too large a cage can be stressfull others believe the opposite. Make sure you don't have more than one corn in the same viv

If all else fails, don't be too upset and realize that some babies, were just not meant to make it... GOOD LUCK!

Rebecca
 
I know of a product called lizard maker that you can buy in reptile shops over here in britain. I don't know if you can get it in america,or if it has a different name there. I just thought it might be worth a mention because,(although i've never used it.) It's meant to be a very good product.
 
It is called lizard maker and I haven't had much luck with it. I had better luck scenting with a thawed anole.
 
trouble feeders

I breed corns and every year I have a few that are problem feeders. The method that works for me the best is braining the pinkie. this is grose to do but works about 70% of the time. I also will start problem feeders of with small lizards. The snake can go at least a month without eating with no problem. I have had some that will only eat f/t and some that will only eat live. another good source for info is the corn snake manual by kathy love. I hope this helps some. I know how frustrating it can be when your snake will not eat. :wavey:
 
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