hibernation

[corn2012]

I know that snakes hibernate when in the wild. Also that some allow their snake to hibernate to keep things 'natural'.
Who does this and why? Is it important to do this? I wouldn't think so, but I'm no where near an expert and trying to learn as much as possible.
I was told to add double the aspen and keep it cool in her viv so that she can have as natural of a life as possible, plus it could add more years to her life.
Not thinking I believe this, considering corns normally don't live as long in the wild.
Anyhow, any input would be great!!!

 

[Nanci]

Snakes brumate, not hibernate. Is is always risky to brumate. I would not do it if not absolutely necessary.

 

[bitsy]

It's called "brumation" in Corns and is a less extreme version of hibernation. They can still be slightly active and might move around to drink, but they mostly remain inactive and don't eat. I believe this behaviour evolved as their food animals were usually unavailable in any numbers over the winter months. As cold-blooded animals, it also gave them the capacity to hide away in sheltered nooks and crannies, away from the worst of the cold weather months. Their natural range goes quite far north, with some found in New Jersey.

I've never brumated any of my Corns and I have a 24 year old - I think that says it all! Brumation isn't necessary in captivity as we guarantee a reliable food source all year round.

There are reasons for brumating captive Corns. For those with a large number, it gives the owners a few months off of the relentless round of feeding/cleaning. For breeders, brumation is said to increase fertility and clutch size. However, I bred successfully without brumating for years and have never had reason to complain about these aspects.

The temps we usually advise for a Corn are the mid-80s on the floor at the warm side, and low-mid 70s at the cool side floor. However, it's that upper temp which is more critical. If you think about it, human core body temp is in the mid-90s, so a Corn's ideal maximum will feel cool to us.

I believe that a Corn's average lifespan in the wild is ten years. In captivity, fifteen years is considered good and some get way beyond that.

 

[Chip]

I do brumate for three months out of the year. Babies and yearlings are not brumated; only adults, or animals I either intend to breed or am not trying to get more size on. I find it allows you to sync the animals up and time out eggs for exactly when I want them. I have done it both ways, with far greater yields and fertility brumating. However, I see plenty of people's clutches that are perfect year after year who do not. It does also give you a bit of a break -and more time to focus on babies.
I will also occasionally brumate snakes that are off feed if the timing is right -although they can't be thin and this is not really a concern with corns.

 

[Tavia]

I find my adult Rosy boas seem to eat better the rest of the year if they are brumated but I don't brumate my adult corns and have never noticed any bad effects that might be helped with brumation with them. Baby snakes are almost never brumated, it might be done as a last resort for ones that will not eat. Some people say that can help, others disagree with trying it, and it depends a bit on the species whether that would get recommended. But healthy eating baby/juvi snakes are almost never brumated. Especially with corns, it doesn't seem to make a difference one way or the other.

 

[corn2012]

Awesome, thank you! My corn is a baby still, so I'll keep her temps the same. Also, thanks for the proper name for it.