Hmm.. A thought about housing

[Mowgli]

I've been reading alot of old threads about racks/housing adult corns - And there is something that bugs me..

All the caresheets i have read says that adults needs 15 to 30 gallon tanks.
But in the threads about racks, people agree that a 32 QT (Wich is 8 gallon) box is appropriate for adults.
Now that is a HUGE difference IMO.

 

[PtDnsr]

Floor space makes all the difference. Aquariums come in standard sizes and to get the proper floor space for an adult corn you need a minimum of a 20L. Since corns are not necessarily about height, you can save space by providing the same amount of floor space with less height, which is what happens in a rack. You also have to consider that with a rack it is more enclosed, and the snake will probably feel a little safer and whatnot. In my experience my corns like to explore on the ground level more than anything else.

~Katie

 

[Mowgli]

Allright Im working on the blueprint for ar rack - Wich is the reason for this thread.
But you cant buy Rubbermaid or Sterilite in DK But i found one witch messures 70x39,5x18 cm (27,5" x 15.5" x 7"), would that be suitable for an adult?

 

[Roy Munson]

Allright Im working on the blueprint for ar rack - Wich is the reason for this thread.
But you cant buy Rubbermaid or Sterilite in DK But i found one witch messures 70x39,5x18 cm (27,5" x 15.5" x 7"), would that be suitable for an adult?

Since a 32qt. Sterilite 1756 tub's dimensions are 23.5" x 17" x 6", you'll actually get more floor area from the tubs you're looking at (and a little more vertical space as well). So I'd say that the tubs you're looking at are suitable.

 

[celbii]

My corn perfers climbing all around its cage top and the plants in there, hes a climber though i guess.

 

[graffixcs]

Rubbermaid, Sterilite or "Budget Bobs Plastic Shack" ( :shrugs: )tubs make no difference as long as the floor space is there that's suitable to the size of animal your wish to house, the animal can not escape and you have air holes to allow an exchange of air. (these brands are mentioned often as they are most readily available in the USA)

To answer your question tho, that size would work fine IMO.

I am sure you have done your homework on the subject of building a rack. There is just one thing I have not seen mentioned too often tho, that is if you place your heat source at one end of the tub this allows the thermal gradient to circulate the air and aids in air exchange.

 

[graffixcs]

My corn perfers climbing all around its cage top and the plants in there, hes a climber though i guess.

:-offtopic Just at a guess, is your corn young? Most of mine climbed when they were smaller, as adults and even sub-adults at most they will stretch upwards. :wavey:

 

[Mowgli]

Rubbermaid, Sterilite or "Budget Bobs Plastic Shack" ( :shrugs: )tubs make no difference as long as the floor space is there that's suitable to the size of animal your wish to house, the animal can not escape and you have air holes to allow an exchange of air. (these brands are mentioned often as they are most readily available in the USA)

To answer your question tho, that size would work fine IMO.

I am sure you have done your homework on the subject of building a rack. There is just one thing I have not seen mentioned too often tho, that is if you place your heat source at one end of the tub this allows the thermal gradient to circulate the air and aids in air exchange.

I was just about to ask some questions about where to place my vent holes

I made boxes for my Ball Pythons like this:

As you can tell i placed the holes high on one side, and low on the other side - But where do i place the UTH to make the air circulate? Under the "high vent" side or the "low vent" side?

And btw, thanks for the quick replies

 

[graffixcs]

That is a damn good question IMO. I have deliberated about exactly that for a while.

I have 2 main theories on this, and both have their benefits and pitt falls. So excuse my rambling to follow, but hopefully others will chime in with their opinions;

With holes low on one end of the tub I'd place the heat directly under this end.
Benefit; More fresh air being drawn into the tub due to thermal currents.
Pitt Fall; The heat source is working longer to maintain the set temperature due to a constant flow of Outside Air (O/A).
The snakes are far more likely to try to escape through these holes (even though they can't fit through them) and possibly injure their nose area.

Holes evenly spaced around the top of the tubs;
Benefit; A more even ambient temperature in the tub,
Easier to clean as the holes are well above any snake poop.
Less taxing on the heating and control device.
Pitt Fall; Less O/A circulation.

This is just my 0.02 worth, but definitely something to take into account.

 

[Mowgli]

I was just making a sketch for the "UTH under the low vent side" but gave up You explain exactly what i was drawing..

Actualy i see more benefit with holes evenly placed around the top of the tub.
Reason: With holes evenly placed around the hole tub, you get some air circulation, and if you dont place your tubs too close to each other or the sides of the rack i think it will be enough. And you get a good gradient temperture, wich i see as one of them most important things.
And the thing about saving money on the bills is ofcourse a great bonus!

Any other aspects to look at?

 

[graffixcs]

I think you have it all pretty well covered. Racks are not difficult to set up and maintain (which is why so many breeders use this system as well as space saving).

To be honest I doubt there is very much difference between hole placement. I have my holes drilled around the top, simply because they have belly heat and are less likely to rub against the holes. The "no poop in the holes" is a bonus too, but a hose and some bleach would fix that any way.

I am pretty sure you have searched the forums and looked at other peoples rack systems. It basically comes down to YOUR preferences once you have the basics covered (heat, space and water). I started out with 3 levels and have just completed the 7th level addition. (done simply by adding another level on top, so the very top shelf now became the bottom of the next level, if that makes sense.) I will admit, it is not pretty, but it is practical.

Good luck and post some pics of your new rack.