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how many hatchlings can I keep in 28qt box?

dek593

New member
Hello.
I have 28qt sterlite storage boxes with ild.
However, how many hatchlings can I keep in one 28qt storage box?
Is three o.k. per each box??
 
I agree with Vicky, not to mention you will not be able to tell who regurges if you find a regurge or if you find an unusual/concerning poop, you will have no idea who it belongs to. As well some hatchlings are more easily stressed than others and so cohabbing them may cause a wealth of issues.

Just my .02 cents and experience.
 
Yup. The answer to that question is "one".

If you have more than one.... how do you know which feces belongs to which snake? What if one of them regurges? How would you tell who did it? What if one of them gets sick? Where will you put the others?
 
None, for me that is entirely to large of a space for any number of hatchlings. Now, a shoe box sized tub I will keep an entire clutch together, or if they are small clutches and easily distinguishable I will keep 2 together.
 
Some breeders keep them together initially. I don't recommend that for a n00bie like me. Mike can do it because he's been keeping snakes a long time & he's comfortable with it. I also think 28Q is too much space for a hatchling. Six quarts is more like it. And you can put 2 or more of those in the space 1 28Q takes up. By the time they need more space you will have figured out where to put 2 or more 28Q or larger tubs!
 
Oh yeah, like others mentioned, that is a lot of space for a hatchling. You can go with something smaller to save space but it's always best to keep them separate.
 
The lids on 28qt tubs are not likely to hold in something as small as a hatchling corn....

Go with 6qt Sterilite shoe boxes and keep one per box.
 
I keep my hatchlings together until their first shed. I then separate them out into shoe boxes as they start to eat. Some hatchlings strike at anything that moves quick, so you have to be careful once they start feeding, and then up to about 24". After that they can be put together in groups of two or three without any problem.
 
I keep my hatchlings together until their first shed. I then separate them out into shoe boxes as they start to eat. Some hatchlings strike at anything that moves quick, so you have to be careful once they start feeding, and then up to about 24". After that they can be put together in groups of two or three without any problem.

Righttt because snakes like to travel in groups....

Co habbing is not reccomended for MANY reasons.
If you truly care about your snakes, please keep them seperate.
(this is not directed at Mr Deuel, as he seems to defend co habbing as if it were the holy grail. This is directed at newbies who might listen to his advice).

Snakes are solitary animals, and to force them to live together is something that I consider a form of cruelty.
If you put them in groups to live when they are only 24" long, an immature female might be bred too young and become eggbound and die.
If a snake regurges you won't know which one.
If a snake has a runny poop, you won't know which one.
If one snake get sick, consider them all sick. That is 3 vet bills instead of one.
We actually had a breeder here (dragonboy I think) lose not one, but two males this breeding season. It seems the females KILLED THEM.
 
I love these co-hab threads. Funny how the answers are always the same.
BTW. The first sign of madness is going over the same old ground time after time and expecting a different out come. Lol
 
My response was to the original posters question. I personally at this time have all my snakes separate, but I feel I can change that at any time under the right circumstances. My reply was based on many years experience with a large number and variety of snakes. Before there were books and the Internet, people tried many different methods of raising snakes. These people and the new people today that are not afraid to try new things, are those that have brought the industry to what it is today.

Why not make your responses based on experience and knowledge instead of regurgitating other peoples statements that could be fact or fiction. We don't need the closed-minded individuals that try to censor people because there experiences are different. I'm sure the posters here are smart enough to figure out what is best for their situation.
 
After that they can be put together in groups of two or three without any problem.

Unless the female gets bred too young, or one or both stop eating from stress, or unless one eats the other (happened to a member here, this year, who was cohabbing to breed)...

There's never a problem till there's a problem! - Janine (DiamondLil)

Hey you know what? I bought a pair of two year old snakes this year. The female was "ovulating" when she arrived. Um, guess what. She was really _gravid_ because they had been cohabbed, and I had an unplanned clutch from a 70 gram two year old snake! Nice!! That made for a very worrisome period of time, waiting for her to lay, not knowing if she was going to survive or not.
 
I kept all my hatchlings together in a 28qt tub until their first shed and feeding. Then I separated them into their own tubs.

Wayne
 
So dickdeuel, people aren't allowed to give advice about things unless they've had personal trail and error experience with them? Interesting.
 
what about having 2 snakes in one tank. one being a few months older than the other?

Sure you can do that! The risk is the possibility of one snake eating the other. The real question is whether it's worth the gamble?

Not to me. :nope:

JMO!

Wayne
 
I don't know if there is any difference between males and females as far as being aggressive to each other goes. But I for one know that my two female corns hate each other and if I were to house them together I believe they would try and kill one another. I've had them both out at the same time before and they get real intent on each other. I also know it isn't a sexual thing as the little one is only a few months old. I think it's more like the big one wants to see what the little one taste like.
 
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