Infra-Red FTE wiring and setup.

[EtherRex]

Im hoping someone who uses an infra-red ceramic heater can help me out with the setup of one of these units. I am assembling a new Viv for my corn. It will be 3ft x 1.5ft x 1.5ft. I have decided to use a ceramic FTE to heat it for two reasons.

1)I am concerned that a heatpad will not have enough oomph to counter the cold temperatures in the room during the winter.

2)The only simple way to use a heat pad in the wooden viv would be to have it inside taped to the base. I have heard lots of warnings against this and as I use paper towel as substrate the snake would be able to directly access the mat.

Im having a problem finding wiring diagrams and instructions for these units although I can buy them no problem through a supplier at work. I want to use an FTE as opposed to a ceramic bulb to keep the profile of the heater as low as possible. The ceramic lamps seem to drop at least 8 inches into the cage and apart from looking unsightly would place the heater too close to any branches I place in that end of the tank.

So, does anyone use these? Can anyone point me towards wiring diagrams? Describe how best to set them up based on their experience?

All help greatfully accepted.

Rex

 

[Drizzt80]

UTH Help

I built my own homemade cage last Spring of '02, and had the same predicament in my planning. I came up with a system of cutting a square hole in the floor, routering the egde, and putting in an 11"x11" plate of glass. I used silicone to seal it. I attached the UTH to this. If I can remember correctly all the glass (6 door panels and 3 floors) cost around $40. The best way to save money on the glass was to ask for the edges to be raw/unfinished. The silicone protects the pieces in the floor, and you can see the white duct tape protecting the door panels. Saved me about 1/3 the original cost for the glass on this project.

I considered putting in either a light bulb or ceramic heat source, but didn't want to mess with the extra effort of protecting the snake from this heat source as they can climb up to it if they want!

The cage is 36" long by 14 3/4" deep and tall.

Here's a pic of the cage and the bottom glass:

I hope this helps you decide what to do.

D80

 

[EtherRex]

Hmmm, thats an interesting and elegant solution Drizzt80. Though, the heatmat is not easily accessible if it fails which could be a problem. The main reason I want to use a ceramic is that I really dont think a mat is going to be able to keep the floor temperature +2 inches above at 30 c over the winter. Its my snakes first winter so I dont intend to brumate her at all. I want to keep her feeding.

Has anyone proven a heatmat to be able to maintain the upper temperature limit, with very low ambient temperatures around the cage? Im talking maybe as low as 4-5 c. Maybe im worrying about nothing and the heatmat will be fine. I hope so.

I too am worried about the snake getting burnt on the ceramic heater but if I guard it properly it should be okay.

Maybe I need to post this question on a python / boa forum where more people use ceramics.

Thanks for the help so far.

 

[shane.N]

Hello,I live in north east england and used heat mats on all 8 of my snakes during last winter with no problems at all.none of them stopped feeding and all seemed happy and healthy enough with just heat mats for their warmth.

 

[EtherRex]

Ah, thanks shane.N thats encouraging. Can I ask though, are the vivs in a room with other heating or is the room unheated. The room my snake is in will be unheated to all intents and porpoises.

Ta

 

[sumguy]

Drizzt80 - questions

Hi Drizzt80
Very nice setup. Questions if you don't mind Lot of overhead lights in reflection, those cages are in a classroom? Could the floor have been a piece of expanded PVC or other rigid plastic set on a rail around the perimeter (maybe with a cross brace too)and sealed into place? This would avoid routering a wood floor and fitting glass although the pvc is more expensive. Would the heat mat be safe to attach directly to pvc floor providing proper temp controls are used? Lastly, how hard would it be to modify those cages onto a sliding rail like drawers? TIA

 

[CAV]

Drizz,

Very nice job! Are those standard horizontal windows that you used on the front?

sumguy,

You should be able to build the individual units as a box and install guides on the bottom like a standard drawer. Of course this would require additional bracing or backing in order to maintain stability.

 

[Drizzt80]

CAV:
Thanks for the compliment, it was a fun project. Each set of doors consists of plastic 'medicine cabinet' rails which hold 1/4" glass. The glass panels were cut locally to the size of the opening with a 1/2" overlay, and a 1/4" reduction in the height to accomodate the plastic rails. I would have to rummage through my files to get the exact dimensions I used, but each opening is 36" long, and approx. 10-12" high. I believe I had the glass cut to 18 1/2" x 10 3/4".

Sumguy:
The intent and purpose for this particular cage was cheap and spacious for female breeders. I got both out of it. The biggest factor in the design was price first and size/functional. I had drawn up probably 7 or 8 different designs. The heat source was the biggest challenge. I believe the glass plate and routered edge was the easiest and most convenient, and safest (since I am running them on a thermostat).
You could probably do anything you wanted to the design if you had an unlimited budget. It's definitely not a perfect design (definitely need a 1" dam under the doors.), but only cost about $140. Glass and melamine made up 3/4 of that cost.
Personally I don't know that PVC would be negatively affected by heat tape seeing as how so many of us use rubbermaid directly on tape. As for pullout drawers, not sure the reason for having that with front opening doors, but I'm sure you could do it.

Thanks for the compliments on the cage.
D80