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Infrared Lighting for a cornsnake?

J

Jase&Sarah

Mother and Father of Eva
Hello all. I recently purchased a albino corn snake from a reputable breeder. Due to the lack of pigment I was told to limit the UV basking light and look into ceramic heat emitters and infrared lighting. Since I have a million infrared lights I use for all my other herps I am using a small one for heat during the day, along with a small UTH on the same side at all times. There is also a normal florescent for visual appearance and lighting (no UV) It is usually between 80-86 on the warm side and 78-80 on the cool. Are there any negatives anyone knows about using infrared lights with corn snakes. Only reason I ask is because I have never personally seen many in use. If so, explain. While I have some experience with corn snakes I have none with Snow's/albino's.

Also, while I believe this is normal behavior she hides all the time. Never seen one be so shy.

Thanks for the help

Jason and Sarah :crazy02:
 
Jase&Sarah said:
Also, while I believe this is normal behavior she hides all the time. Never seen one be so shy.

Thanks for the help

Jason and Sarah :crazy02:
Click to expand...

They all have different personalities. They seem to hide more as babies and come out more after two years of age, or so. My adult corn is out quite a bit of the time, just laying around. I've seen my latest addition, a 2005 corn, exactly once, after her first day. I have a milksnake, 2006, that is never, ever out. My 2006 Cali King is out whenever he detects that I am at home. Eastern Hoggy- out every day to climb. Tri-color Hoggy- I see him out getting a drink every three or four days, more often as feeding day draws near. 2003 Florida King- i caught a glimpse of his tail disappearing into a hide once.

Does yours have a lot of cover? They seem to be more confident venturing out if there are vines, etc., to retreat to and blend in with.

Nanci
 
Infrared lights are expensive, and *could* explain a lack of popularity among herp keepers...

Infrared heat emitters are quite common, as well as ceramic heat emitters. Both provide heating without the light.

The main concern with amels or snows is a susceptibility to sun damage, due to a lack of melanin in their skin and eye pigmentation. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, I imagine, would be harmful. But infrequent exposure *shouldn't* be a concern...

And infrared is not the same as ultraviolet. UV lights can cause the same types of damage as sunlight, so...
 
Thank you

Thanks for the info. I will just stick to my thermal light to reduce risk of UV damage. Thanks
 
Just a heat mat?

Should I just stick with a heat mat though. Right now it has one small one under it which makes the overall cage temp only about 79.
 
The overall cage temp doesn't matter. You need to know what the temp is directly on top of the heat mat, in the cage, with no substrate where the temp probe is. Then you need to know what the temp is at the other end. On top of the substrate is ok.

Nanci
 
Got my heat probe

Since mine had died I just went and purchased another heat probe. Says the temp on top the UTH is about 92. At the moment I am using repticarpet due to past problems with other substrates. While I know the idea temp is between 80-85, is this way to hot. If so I take it a thermostat will be a good purchase to make?
 
pardon me for interupting here but snakes dont need a light to bask under,they get their heat from the floor......

i never use lights in my vivs
 
I know :)

Oh I know now, that was cleared up earlier now I am trying to get the floor temp straightened out.
 
Every tank I have with Repticarpet in it, the snakes love to go under the carpet. Thermostats are a necessity, (or rheostats) IMO. I wouldn't be comfortable with a temp of 92F. Who knows what it does when you aren't looking.

Nanci
 
alrighty then :)

Alrighty so I should go get one of those bad boys ASAP tomorrow then, and play with it till I can get a temp of about 85 correct? Since they like to get uner it, would that still be ok then?
 
if it is of any use i have found that putting the heatmats under hardboard (like a false bottom)it is easier to regulate
 
So just a UTH would be ok then

Alrighty so let me make sure I am doing everything right. 20 tank, with a heat mat on 1/3 or a little more. That's what I have at present.

If I add a thermostat or dimmer of some type and regulate the floor temp to 85. Then that should be good for the temp of everything? correct?
 
Yep, getting the temps to 85 with a thermostat is all you need to do. When your snake goes into blue, you may want to try adding a humid hide, but other then that it sounds like you pretty much have your setup on the right track!
 
if you are getting a rehostat get it at home depot. they have the portable ones and is prewired. i find they have a greater range than the one that you get at the pet store, a lot cheaper too.
 
If possible you really should get a thermostat rather than a rheostat. You will be able to get the thermostat set and leave it, possibly without checking it ever. For a rheostat I always feel I need to check the temp in the cage daily to make sure it's not too high or low.

Even the cheep thermostats at petsmart or something work fine, as long as you test them out in the cage without the snake to get the tempature setting right. The alife 1000 watt thermostats from lllreptile, or a lot of other stores, show you the temp setting, and seem to keep that tempature consistant.
 
Thanks for the help

Alright thanks for all the help everyone. I do electrical work for part of my job and am extremely familiar with these devices. Basically the reptile ones are glorified light dimmers. so with a little time I found one that is working nicely and making my UTH temp right at 85. thanks
 
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