keeping correct temperature

[Kimber]

Hi again all,

I need some advice on temperature and heating.
I've got 2 baby great plains rat snakes and 1 baby corn (separate cage).

It is slowly turning to winter here so I've added a thermometer and have been turning on the heating pad underneath.

The heating pad only covers a small part of the cage and the thermometer shows 30 degrees directly on the floor above the pad. Is this too warm for them?

I read once that snakes cannot tell how much heat they've recieved from the bottom but only from the top (eg sunlight). If this is true, then a heating pad would be dangerous for them wouldnt it?

Will they move around the cage to get the temperature they want?

Man those buggers are fast when they are warm! I think I need to cool them down when its time for handling. Is this common?

thanks for any help!

 

[Kimber]

ok, I am really battling with this temperature thing. I left the heating pad on all day yesterday and it got up to 35 degrees on the floor directly above the heating pad.

I know that is too hot but if I leave the heat off it gets down to 20-25 degrees.

I can leave it on at night only but then they are warmer at night then during the day which seems abnormal.

Maybe I need to get a less-hot heating pad or maybe a timer to turn it on and off or maybe a thermometer controlled unit? Sounds pricey.

What does everybody do???

 

[canadianjoe]

thermostate is what most people do, easiest, then there is not that guess work you have to do with the timer, stays at one temp unlike a timer which makes the temp go up and down. A theremostate at the pet store is better investment and cheaper than trying to find, then purchase a new heat pad.

The snakes keep them selves at a temp that is comfortable for them selves. they are the experts, so let them control what temp they are. Just make sure u have a proper heat graduate, then leave the temp in the cage alone and they will do the rest.

 

[Kimber]

Thanks for the reply!

So you don't agree with what I read that they cannot tell if they've recieved heat from the bottom?

Can you tell me a bit more about this thermostat thing, is it directly connected to a heating pad? Will stop by the pet shop asap!

thanks again,
Kimber

p.s. I'm Canadian too! Been in South Africa nearly 5 years now...

 

[CowBoyWay]

The subtle art of Under Tank Heater temperature regulation

Heres a partial quote/ good idea from a past post from a member named sue frederick'. Other members have mentioned this concept too.
"What I did is to buy a ceramic tile from the hardware store. Get one that is a bit larger than your heat mat. Stick the mat directly to the tile.
Then you put the tank up on wooden blocks so it is raised off the shelf...
Now you can increase or decrease the height of the blocks and increase or decrease the distance of the tile/heat mat from the bottom of the tank to increase or decrease the temp of the glass.
Another benefit of this is that when you change tanks, you just move the tile/heat mat instead of trying to peel the heat mat off the old tank."
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=183&highlight=ceramic+tile+heat

A good minimum/maximum thermometer is critical for one to regulate fluctuating tank temperatures resulting from seasonal house temp. variations. You've got to "keep an eye on it" and adjust/ accomadate as need be. imho.

Also...
I found this description on Ebay of a
"Alife" brand "Reptile thermostat" to give you a better idea how they work.
3 outlets and 1 thousand watt rated, this one has nice features compared to others.
There are other brands that are specifically designed and sold for reptile use and unless you are a (basic 101 ) electrician, preassembled thermostat/ probe unit's are probably the safest and best way to go for most people as far as making the subject a no brainer. pretty much, set it and forget it. Check your in-tank thermometer frequently to verify temps, to play it safe.

"For years professional breeders have seen the benefits of having their terrariums thermostatically controlled...

The electronic temperature controller is simple and easy to use,
simply plug the unit into any power source.
Place the remote probe in the area of the cage you want to control the temperature.
Set the easy to read dial on the face of the unit to the desired temperature.

Plug up to 3 (1000w combined max) heat sources ( clip lamps, heating elements, bulbs) into the device and your done.

Your cage will always stay at the desired temperature.

The electronic temperature controller has a built in 0.5 degree tolerance to ensure the tightest accuracy in the industry. These units can even be used on expensive incubators.

Temp. range from;
60-105 degrees F.
(15.56 deg C - 40.56 deg C)

with a 110 VOLT, 3 WAY-1000 WATT POWER SUPPLY "
Under $30 dollars U.S..
Another Reptile thermostat is made by ZooMed.
www.zoomed.com/html/thermostats.html

Beware that these units are not fail safe/perfect and units can malfunction
or so I've read over at www.faunaclassifieds.com
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14219
http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=14242

http://www.faunaclassifieds.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13737

 

[13mur 6]

Mmm... burrowing snakes in particular have problems with undertank heaters since they burrow deeper to avoid the heat, but that just brings them closer to the heat, and they end up with burns.

Corns I think move laterally from the heat, so if their current area is hot, they move away from that area to a cooler place instead of burrowing. I think this is the case in the wild as well since corns are nocturnal and they rely on warmth of the ground and rocks that have been warmed throughout the day by the sunlight for warmth. You'll rarely find a corn out in the sun, so a UTH IMHO is the most natural form of heat to them.

To answer your question on temperature control, I do what's similar to what Cowboyway mentioned with the ceramic. However, I don't use ceramic and just put the heatmat on the table and lift the tank above the heat mat with soda bottle caps, or CD cases until the desired temp is reached. I use those plastic laminated non-stick on type UTH's if you were wondering, I hate the stick on kind. This is the cheapest way to deal with the heat. The best way would be to get a thermostat as everyone was suggesting, most of them have a built in thermometer and you dial in the temperature you want, but know you'll be parting with around $100 for one of these things, unless there's a bargain bin model I'm not aware about.

-13mur 6

 

[jdub]

I have a 60 watt black light, and it keeps the temp right around 80-82 the whole time. I turn it off temporarily to let the temp drop, and then turn it back on. I really am never fiddling around to make the perfect temp, because my method keeps the right temp, all the time. Undertank heaters aren't really worth it because in the long run it might end up harming your snake (burns). My snakes seem to enjoy the temp, and it keeps it dark, since most corns come out in the night. In my true opinion, It is the best, easiest, safest, and cheapest way to heat vivarium. Hope this helps. (p.s. any 60 watt black light will work. I get mine at fred meyers because they are cheap there.)

 

[Kimber]

Thanks very much for all the help.

I managed to find a thermostat unit which will turn the heating pad on and off to keep it the right temperature. A bit of a mission because it's from the US and I had to cut off all the plugs to convert it to South African power.

I've got it covering only part of the cage.
I've set it on 25 degrees and it seems to be working like a charm.

So I'm very happy and so are my babies.

thanks again!
Kimber

 

[CowBoyWay]

sophisticated digital proportional thermostat

Can't find any body bad mouthing this unit, appears to be top quality.

THE HERP POWER PROPORTIONAL THERMOSTAT WITH BUILT-IN NIGHTDROP FEATURE
The highest rated thermostat in the industry!!! It allows for two temperature settings, a daytime and automatic programmable night time drop (standard household timer needed). Unit has a 300 watt max load which is upgradable to 1000 watts with the power boost accessory. This unit does not require an expensive night drop cord to activate it's programmable automatic night drop temperature, it's all included with the unit. A great thermostat device at an unbelievable price!
about $99 dollars and 99.9/10 cents

http://www.bigappleherp.com/bigappl...d001ce2990271d424d361a061d+EN/products/921100

 

[fsqwert]

Amen!!!!!!!!!

:cheers:

I have one and it works perfectly.

 

[Missy]

well, i personally have never used a heat pad nor a thermostat, have always relyed on their bulbs, i have my viv's stacked on top of one another, like here -

as you can see in this pic, i have the bottom two lights on, which warms the top two up, so i never have the lights on those. sometimes i only have the bottom tank on, the hottest the bottom one has been is 89F, but whatever that one is the others are roughly the same, so then i turn it off, i dont let it get no hotter in there, the top left tank is my baby, if shes laying on the floor of her tank, then the temps okay but if shes on top of her logs then i know that if shes too hot, the others will be. its always worked out fine for me that way.