Need advice...First Time Snake Owner

[JeffDenver]

I am new to Corn Snakes. I decided I want to transition out of fish and get a snake instead; I like fish a lot but they are just too much maintenance. After looking at the options I decided on a Corn Snake.

I haven't bought one yet. I want to set up the Habitat first. I've looked around and several pet stores have baby corn snakes for sale for around $40. I think I already have most of the equipment I need (pine bedding, driftwood to climb on, aquariums to house it, food/water bowls...I understand I will need a secure top still).

I just have a few questions:


1 - I understand that they need hides...how many and how "opaque" do they need to be? Does the snake need to be able to completely obscure itself from view 100%?

2 - How fast can I expect it to grow? The ones I looked at were pretty small ( a foot or less). I am going to be keeping it in a 15 gallon-high aquarium initially. I have space for a 55 gallon when it comes to that, and I have ready access to a number of tanks. I chose the 15 because I want to keep it on my desk.

3 - I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

4 - Are they accustomed to eating pre-killed food or is it something you need to train them to do? Should I wait a while after I get it home before feeding it so it can adjust to the new cage?

5 - I've been told by friends that have owned them before that they dont bite...do they have teeth? If it bites how do I remove it without hurting it?

6 - I know one side of the tank needs to be heated...what are some recommendations for heating methods? I'd rather not use a lamp...I have used heating pads in the past (had Hermit Crabs for a while) and they did seem to work well. How about the heating rocks or Substrate Heaters?

7 - I live in Denver Colorado...but my room is well heated but not hot (typically around 70 degrees). Now that its spring it is getting warmer too. But it is a dry area...how moist does the tank need to be?

8 - And I have been told that I might need a UV lamp as well. Any suggestions on that?

And advice is appreciated.

 

[mitochondria]

1 - I understand that they need hides...how many and how "opaque" do they need to be? Does the snake need to be able to completely obscure itself from view 100%?

My snake prefers hides that are dark and he can be completely concealed in.

3 - I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

Most people recommend you do not keep corn snakes together. I get the feeling that this may be a sore spot for some on these forums but it seems like more people agree, you shouldn't do it.

4 - Are they accustomed to eating pre-killed food or is it something you need to train them to do? Should I wait a while after I get it home before feeding it so it can adjust to the new cage?

My snake was eating live pinkies when we bought him. After he settled down and got used to his cage he immediately started eating F/T. i didn't even have to feed him one live pinky.

5 - I've been told by friends that have owned them before that they dont bite...do they have teeth? If it bites how do I remove it without hurting it?

They have teeth. They are very small. I haven't been bitten by mine but I doubt he could cause much pain or damage to me.

6 - I know one side of the tank needs to be heated...what are some recommendations for heating methods? I'd rather not use a lamp...I have used heating pads in the past (had Hermit Crabs for a while) and they did seem to work well. How about the heating rocks or Substrate Heaters?

I just use a small ZooMed UTH. I have a rheostat hooked up to it and it gets the job done nicely. If your temperature isn't very stable where you live you may need to get a thermostat instead of a rheostat.

8 - And I have been told that I might need a UV lamp as well. Any suggestions on that?

No one has told me to use a UV light and I haven't read that either. From what I understand corn snakes need very little light.

Good luck, and enjoy your snake.

 

[mitochondria]

Is there no edit button for these forums or am I just blind? Anyway my answers are in the actual quote from your message. They are supposed to be in green but that didn't really work.

 

[insomniac]

Search around the forum here and find a breeder near you, Or try to find a reptile expo in your area. A lot of people have had bad luck with snakes from petstores...

 

[atmox]

I haven't bought one yet. I want to set up the Habitat first. I've looked around and several pet stores have baby corn snakes for sale for around $40.

Don't buy a snake from a pet store, contact a breeder via this site. Pet stores don't have the best reputation if it comes to snake keeping + they are way more expensive.


I think I already have most of the equipment I need (pine bedding, driftwood to climb on, aquariums to house it, food/water bowls...I understand I will need a secure top still).

Buy snake-safe aspen bedding, pine can be harmful from what i understand. Don't see why you need a food bowl, feed them in the home tank or in an separate container. Here is a good feeding plan *Click* And make sure that the tank is completely escape proof! They WILL get through tiny holes and they are much stronger than you think!

Also read this: http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28341


1 - I understand that they need hides...how many and how "opaque" do they need to be? Does the snake need to be able to completely obscure itself from view 100%?

At least one ate the cool side and one at the warm side. Hides should be small enough for the snake to feel secure. Also opaque is used as a term for a snake that is about to shed (i think)

2 - How fast can I expect it to grow? The ones I looked at were pretty small ( a foot or less). I am going to be keeping it in a 15 gallon-high aquarium initially. I have space for a 55 gallon when it comes to that, and I have ready access to a number of tanks. I chose the 15 because I want to keep it on my desk.

They are mature at 3 year old.

3 - I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

Pet store told you that, didn't they? Forget everything what they've told you and read this forum, other members will link you good books. Keep each snake separate, that's best for everyone. They'll say you can put 2 females together but when one gets sick they'll both get sick + you won' know which one has diarrhea.

4 - Are they accustomed to eating pre-killed food or is it something you need to train them to do? Should I wait a while after I get it home before feeding it so it can adjust to the new cage?

Wait 1 week - 5 days before feeding or handling a new corn snake. Only disturb the viv to clean up poo or change the water. Most corns will eat thawed mice readily but make sure you ask about it.

5 - I've been told by friends that have owned them before that they dont bite...do they have teeth? If it bites how do I remove it without hurting it?

They are wild animals and if you keep snakes long enough one will bite you. They are natural docile (well most of them, some are evil) Yes they have teeth but very small one, if they are young it will feel like being attacked by velcro. Adults will draw a little blood but don't fear it. Most of the times they will strike and quickly release and back off, if they hold on pour some water over them.

6 - I know one side of the tank needs to be heated...what are some recommendations for heating methods? I'd rather not use a lamp...I have used heating pads in the past (had Hermit Crabs for a while) and they did seem to work well. How about the heating rocks or Substrate Heaters?

Heating pads (UTH) are great! They should cover 1/3-1/4 of the cage floor and be controlled(!) with thermostats/rheostats and monitored with a thermometer with probe placed on the UTH.

7 - I live in Denver Colorado...but my room is well heated but not hot (typically around 70 degrees). Now that its spring it is getting warmer too. But it is a dry area...how moist does the tank need to be?

40%-60% air humidity is good, if they are about to shed (going in blue) raise it a bed to help them.

8 - And I have been told that I might need a UV lamp as well. Any suggestions on that?

Corns are nocturnal and don't need that.

 

[bitsy]

Hello and welcome! My thoughts on your questions:

1 - I understand that they need hides...how many and how "opaque" do they need to be? Does the snake need to be able to completely obscure itself from view 100%?

I'd say as many hides as possible, plus some ground cover like plastic foliage to cover areas of open floor. They like to fit snugly into a hide and be completely out of site (as if hiding from predators in the wild). At least a minimum of two hides - one on the warm side and one on the cool side.

2 - How fast can I expect it to grow? The ones I looked at were pretty small ( a foot or less). I am going to be keeping it in a 15 gallon-high aquarium initially. I have space for a 55 gallon when it comes to that, and I have ready access to a number of tanks. I chose the 15 because I want to keep it on my desk.

Most Corns will be adult sized (4-5 feet) by about three years of age. Some grow slower, some faster. When it comes to adults, I'd say the larger the better for tanks. You can make quite a feature of them. With hatchlings, your main concern is to make sure it's escape-proof. They can squeeze through the most ridiculously small holes. They're also surprisingly strong and love nothing better than to lever up the corner of a lid or the weak point on a screen top.

3 - I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

No, they're not social. The only time they'd spend time with other Corns in the wild, would be to mate or to brumate/thermoregulate if there were only limited options available. The general view of this particular message board is that you should aim for one Corn per tank to avoid a range of risks. Doesn't stop you buying more tanks, of course!

4 - Are they accustomed to eating pre-killed food or is it something you need to train them to do? Should I wait a while after I get it home before feeding it so it can adjust to the new cage?

Most captive-bred Corns will be sold already eating defrosted mice of an appropriate size. Personally, I wouldn't buy one that ate live. Saves a lot of potential bother.

5 - I've been told by friends that have owned them before that they dont bite...do they have teeth? If it bites how do I remove it without hurting it?

Like cats and dogs, Corns can bite. However, also like cats and dogs, they're generally very placid once they're used to you and for the vast majority, it's not a problem. Hatchlings are naturally much more nervous and prone to nipping at the start - in the wild, pretty much everything would be out to eat them! However, they don't have the capacity to do much more than startle you and if they do bite, they usually stop within the second or third time you pick them up. They just have to get used to you and realise that you're not going to want them for dinner.

An adult Corn will have teeth about 2mm long - really tiny. They can just about draw blood but the sensation is more of a hard pinch than a chomp (if you see what I mean). I doubt you'll have a problem. To detach a really determined Corn, just run their head under a slow-runnng cold tap. The surprise usually makes them let go of their own accord.

6 - I know one side of the tank needs to be heated...what are some recommendations for heating methods? I'd rather not use a lamp...I have used heating pads in the past (had Hermit Crabs for a while) and they did seem to work well. How about the heating rocks or Substrate Heaters?

Heat rocks are pretty old technology these days and most people avoid them due to the risk of burns to the animals. Many folks here (me included) use under tank heaters (also referred to as a UTH or heat mat). These need to be controlled by a thermostat, as they're designed for use with a range of reptiles and will get much hotter than a Corn's safe maximum (90 degrees). The UTH should cover about one-third of the floor area of the tank and I aim to heat the floor surface to the mid 80s.

Some people use heat lamps, but these can dry out the air in the tank and make sheds a worry, so you need to keep your eye on humidity if you decide on that. Again, you'll need a thermostat.

7 - I live in Denver Colorado...but my room is well heated but not hot (typically around 70 degrees). Now that its spring it is getting warmer too. But it is a dry area...how moist does the tank need to be?

Can't really help with the location specifics. However, when your snake goes into its shed cycle it will take on a greyish dull sheen (known as "going blue"). You can put a humid hide in the tank at that point and they can use it to ensure that the old skin stays moisturised and comes off cleanly.

8 - And I have been told that I might need a UV lamp as well. Any suggestions on that?

Corns absolutely don't need UV. Some reptiles need UV for basking, as in the wild they need the UV in sunlight to create Vitamin D, which in turn metabolises calcium. Without UV, that sort of reptile would develop skeletal disorders. However, Corns have never developed this dependency. In the wild, they're most active at times of low or no sunlight - dawn, dusk or overnight - so they actually avoid exposure to strong direct UV. UV is unnecessary and Corns get all the vitamin D and calcium they need, from their food.

Phew - bit of a brain dump! Hope it helps and good luck with your search for the "perfect" Corn (trust me, you'll know him/her when you see her!).

 

[Shiari]

1- You should have at least two hides, and they should not be able to be seen through. Paper towel rolls, fake plants, half-logs all make good hides.

2- Corns all grow at different rates. Some people have yearlings at almost 200 grams... and yearlings that are barely 30 grams. So it depends on the snake.

3- No, corns are NOT 'social' animals. Wolves, people, and elephants are social animals. Corns only come together to breed, or if multiple animals happen upon a "really good" hiding spot. There are plenty of pictures floating around of cannibal corn snakes. Equally, if you have multiple animals in one viv and one gets sick, you'll have a real hard time telling which animal it is. And furthermore, if you have a 1.1 (male/female) pair, the female could breed too young, become eggbound and die. And plenty of male snakes have masqueraded as females in the past. Probing and popping do not confirm if a snake is female or not. And two males housed together would get into subtle fights.

4- Most snakes that you buy will be perfectly happy to take pre-killed food right away. It's safer for the snake and kinder to the mouse, anyway.

5- Anything with a mouth can bite, and yes, corns have plenty of tiny teeth. Getting bit by a baby feels like being attacked by angry velcro. Bites from adults do sting a bit, but it's not that bad. You also don't remove the snake if it has bitten you. You wait for it to let go on its own, otherwise you'll do more damage to yourself and might end up with a lot of teeth broken off in your skin.

6- NO HEAT ROCKS! Best method is an under-tank heater (UTH) that is controlled with a thermostat. You'll also want a digital probe thermometer (you can get these for real cheap at petco) with the probe placed directly on the glass that the UTH is attached to.

7- This one I'm not so sure about. I don't have humidity issues here in california. However, if you're worried you can provide a large bowl for the snake to soak in and also provide a moist hide when your snake is getting ready to shed.

8- Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal. They do not need a UV lamp.

 

[JeffDenver]

If your temperature isn't very stable where you live you may need to get a thermostat instead of a rheostat.

Whats the difference between the two?

Temperature is reasonably stable in Denver in Spring and Summer...less so in fall. And in winter it can vary a lot, from fairly warm (70s) to extremely cold (-20).

Is there no edit button for these forums or am I just blind?

Yeah, I noticed that after I made my post. I didnt see one either. I thought maybe new users do not get edit options until they have been on here a certain time or something.

Buy snake-safe aspen bedding

Yeah, Aspen bedding is what I meant, not pine. I originally bought it for hamsters, and they cant tolerate pine either.

This is just temporary anyway. Eventually I will probably switch to bark or fake grass or something.

make sure that the tank is completely escape proof! They WILL get through tiny holes and they are much stronger than you think!

Yeah, people have been screaming that at me from every direction, heh heh. I plan on being extremely careful.

Me: I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

Pet store told you that, didn't they?

Actually I read it online in several places. I wanted to ask on a snake-specific forum like this to be sure. All of the pet stores I have been to had multiple snakes in the same unit at once.

Wait 1 week - 5 days before feeding or handling a new corn snake. Only disturb the viv to clean up poo or change the water. Most corns will eat thawed mice readily but make sure you ask about it.

Great, thats what I need to know.

Most captive-bred Corns will be sold already eating defrosted mice of an appropriate size. Personally, I wouldn't buy one that ate live. Saves a lot of potential bother.

Thanks. I have never bought rodent-food before...do they come frozen? I got the impression that they are live at the pet store and the staff kills them there or something.

If frozen, how long to thaw them? They have to be room temperature? Is it bad for the snake if they are too cold?

Heat rocks are pretty old technology these days and most people avoid them due to the risk of burns to the animals. Many folks here (me included) use under tank heaters (also referred to as a UTH or heat mat).

Yeah, UTH seems to be the consensus. And I have some experience with them. I used them for hermit crabs...but the main reason I stopped is because they dont put out a lot of heat.

I understand this might not be an issue since these snakes are not tropical and dont require a lot of heat anyway. I guess I will give UTH another try.

Some people use heat lamps, but these can dry out the air in the tank and make sheds a worry, so you need to keep your eye on humidity if you decide on that.

More reasons I dont want to use them. My initial reason was that I just dont like how they look. Would rather use florescent lighting.

You can put a humid hide in the tank at that point and they can use it to ensure that the old skin stays moisturised and comes off cleanly.

I have seen this term used elsewhere on the forum but I dont know what it means. Whats a Humid Hide?

Will I need to "mist" the snake at all or is just providing water enough?

Corns all grow at different rates. Some people have yearlings at almost 200 grams... and yearlings that are barely 30 grams. So it depends on the snake.

Wow, that is a huge difference. At what point should I think about moving to something larger than 15 gallons?

NO HEAT ROCKS!

Got it. That seems to be a consensus as well.

Thats why I came to this forum. The pet store people would never tell me this stuff.

----------

Thanks for all the responses. They have been very helpful.

 

[atmox]

Whats the difference between the two?

Temperature is reasonably stable in Denver in Spring and Summer...less so in fall. And in winter it can vary a lot, from fairly warm (70s) to extremely cold (-20).

One limits the power going to the UTH, the other measures the temperature and switches the power off when it reaches the set temperature and back on if the temperature drops a few degrees.


Yeah, I noticed that after I made my post. I didnt see one either. I thought maybe new users do not get edit options until they have been on here a certain time or something.


You have to pay real money to get this. $25 dollar a year i think (not sure

Yeah, Aspen bedding is what I meant, not pine. I originally bought it for hamsters, and they cant tolerate pine either.

This is just temporary anyway. Eventually I will probably switch to bark or fake grass or something.


Most keep them on aspen for ever. It's personal preference


Actually I read it online in several places. I wanted to ask on a snake-specific forum like this to be sure. All of the pet stores I have been to had multiple snakes in the same unit at once.

Well they need to cram as much as possible in a space as small as possible, but it's bad for the animals, they will get stressed.


Thanks. I have never bought rodent-food before...do they come frozen? I got the impression that they are live at the pet store and the staff kills them there or something.

They come frozen, don't know if they kill them there or if they get them like this.

If frozen, how long to thaw them? They have to be room temperature? Is it bad for the snake if they are too cold?

Depends on the size of mouse, when thawed out put them in hot water (don't cook them though!) for a minute or so and than offer to the snake.


Yeah, UTH seems to be the consensus. And I have some experience with them. I used them for hermit crabs...but the main reason I stopped is because they dont put out a lot of heat.

I understand this might not be an issue since these snakes are not tropical and dont require a lot of heat anyway. I guess I will give UTH another try.

And unregulated UTH will get way too hot for a corn snake, so heat output will not be a problem


I have seen this term used elsewhere on the forum but I dont know what it means. Whats a Humid Hide?

Will I need to "mist" the snake at all or is just providing water enough?

It's when you put moist sphagnum moss in a hide so the snake can soak in it. I personally don't need to mist but if he's getting ready to shed and it's only 40% humidity in there you could mist a bit. Also if it's under 40% when he's not in shed misting would be a good idea.


Wow, that is a huge difference. At what point should I think about moving to something larger than 15 gallons?


When your snake gets longer than the width and length of the viv.

Good that you research before you buy!

 

[JeffDenver]

And unregulated UTH will get way too hot for a corn snake, so heat output will not be a problem

The ones I used in the past never got warm to the touch inside the tank (in other words, they are stuck on the bottom, and if you touch inside of the tank in the same area it does not feel warm). Maybe the ones I bought were defective or something. Guess I will need to get a temperature switch you were talking about.

It's when you put moist sphagnum moss in a hide so the snake can soak in it.

Ah...so maybe a combo pond-hide type thing where the hide is in/on the water dish?

When your snake gets longer than the width and length of the viv.

Whats a viv?

 

[bitsy]

If your temperature isn't very stable where you live you may need to get a thermostat instead of a rheostat.

Whats the difference between the two?

A thermostat (once set up) will automatically adjust itself to keep the UTH at the same temperature all the time. A rheostat will keep the UTH at lower temperatures, but will need to be regularly checked and manually adjusted. I use thermostats as they're less bother - set it up and walk away. However, a rheostat is a cheaper option if money is an issue. If your room temps tend to vary then I'd definitely recommend a thermostat.

Temperature is reasonably stable in Denver in Spring and Summer...less so in fall. And in winter it can vary a lot, from fairly warm (70s) to extremely cold (-20).

The outside temps probably won't have much bearing on the indoors temps in your home. If the indoors temps fluctuate, I'd go for a thermostat.

Is there no edit button for these forums or am I just blind?

Yeah, I noticed that after I made my post. I didnt see one either. I thought maybe new users do not get edit options until they have been on here a certain time or something.

There's a thing called "Contributor" status, where folks make a financial contribution to the upkeep of the board and the Edit function is one of the benefits of this status.

Buy snake-safe aspen bedding

Yeah, Aspen bedding is what I meant, not pine. I originally bought it for hamsters, and they cant tolerate pine either.

This is just temporary anyway. Eventually I will probably switch to bark or fake grass or something.

Aspen seems to be the standard substrate over that side of the Atlantic. Bark chips are more common over here in the UK. Both work well. From what I've seen, people can have limited success with artificial turf. You need to have two bits - one to be washing and drying and the other in the tank. I think it's quite difficult to keep absolutely clean unless you don't mind putting it through the dishwasher. I prefer a substrate that will either absorb poop, or let it drain away from the snake. With fake turf, it would just sit on the surface and the snake would have to crawl through it until changed.

Me: I've been told that they are social...that they can live with other Corn Snakes without killing them. Do these have to be hatch-mates? Do they need to be the same size? Haven't decided if I want more than one yet anyway, but I could get access to fairly big aquariums to house them in, so space would not be an issue.

Pet store told you that, didn't they?

Actually I read it online in several places. I wanted to ask on a snake-specific forum like this to be sure. All of the pet stores I have been to had multiple snakes in the same unit at once.

Bear in mind that the Corns in pet shop tanks won't live all their lives together. It's a calculated risk, but only temporary in that environment.

Most captive-bred Corns will be sold already eating defrosted mice of an appropriate size. Personally, I wouldn't buy one that ate live. Saves a lot of potential bother.

Thanks. I have never bought rodent-food before...do they come frozen? I got the impression that they are live at the pet store and the staff kills them there or something.

Depends on the supplier. My reptile shop sells so much that they buy them ready frozen from a commercial supplier. They're vacuum packed by the time they reach me. Your local shop might well breed their own and pre-kill them on request. You could freeze several at once for convenience, if you wanted to avoid constant trips to the shop.

If frozen, how long to thaw them? They have to be room temperature? Is it bad for the snake if they are too cold?

With adult mice, I usually leave them on a radiator or spare heat mat for a couple of hours. Like human frozen food, they need to be completely defrosted all the way through. Serving them warm encourages the Corn to eat, but as long as it's propely defrosted, I don't suppose there's any harm in it being room temperature.

Heat rocks are pretty old technology these days and most people avoid them due to the risk of burns to the animals. Many folks here (me included) use under tank heaters (also referred to as a UTH or heat mat).

Yeah, UTH seems to be the consensus. And I have some experience with them. I used them for hermit crabs...but the main reason I stopped is because they dont put out a lot of heat.

OK here's some perspective on a Corn's idea of "warm" We operate at a core temperature of just over 96 degrees. Their ideal maximum is 90 degrees. They want a heat source that's cooler than we are. You don't need the heat mat to put out a lot of heat. As has been said before, unregulated heat mats will usually get way over a Corn's safe maximum, hence the need for a thermostat or rheostat. If you put your hand on a Corn's heat mat, it should feel lukewarm or just above cool to you. If it feels warm or hot to you, then it'll feel scalding to a Corn.

I understand this might not be an issue since these snakes are not tropical and dont require a lot of heat anyway. I guess I will give UTH another try.

They are pretty standard kit for Corns these days.

Some people use heat lamps, but these can dry out the air in the tank and make sheds a worry, so you need to keep your eye on humidity if you decide on that.

More reasons I dont want to use them. My initial reason was that I just dont like how they look. Would rather use florescent lighting.

Beware that flourescent lighting tubes can give off quite a bit of heat (I've managed to burn myself on one) and might wreck your carefully set up heat mat + thermostat arrangement. If you want light for your viewing convenience (the Corn won't need artificial light), LED lights seem to give off very little heat.

You can put a humid hide in the tank at that point and they can use it to ensure that the old skin stays moisturised and comes off cleanly.

I have seen this term used elsewhere on the forum but I dont know what it means. Whats a Humid Hide?

A plastic tub like a cheap sandwich box, with a hole cut in it for the snake to get in and out. Part fill it with a damp medium - sphagnum moss or vermiculite to be fancy, but damp paper towel wil do just as well as long as it's changed regularly. This provides an enclosed space where the humidity inside is much higher than the rest of the tank. Corns seem to like them sometimes if they're having trouble with a shed.

Will I need to "mist" the snake at all or is just providing water enough?

I think this depends on your home heating/aircon setup.

Corns all grow at different rates. Some people have yearlings at almost 200 grams... and yearlings that are barely 30 grams. So it depends on the snake.

Wow, that is a huge difference. At what point should I think about moving to something larger than 15 gallons?

The general guideline is that a Corn should be able to stretch along the length and width of the tank. Once it's stretching the length+width+a bit more, then it's time to move up to the next tank size.

 

[atmox]

The ones I used in the past never got warm to the touch inside the tank (in other words, they are stuck on the bottom, and if you touch inside of the tank in the same area it does not feel warm). Maybe the ones I bought were defective or something. Guess I will need to get a temperature switch you were talking about.

Since your body temperature is higher than the warm spot you can't really feel it. At most it would feel slightly warm to you.


Ah...so maybe a combo pond-hide type thing where the hide is in/on the water dish?

No you moist the moss with some water (bottled or tap) make sure it's not dripping wet. Then put it in a hide for a few days (but make sure it doesn't mold so wash it out regularly)

Whats a viv?

Sorry it's short for vivarium (the tank where the snake lives in) should've mentioned that

 

[JeffDenver]

Does anyone have an opinion on EcoEarth?

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752603

Would like to use bark or something that looks like bark but the FAQ here says that bark is bad for snakes.

 

[smallet]

The reason bark is considered bad is this where the tree's natural repellants for insects is the strongest. Minimal contact in the wild is probably ok. But full time on it in your tank could harm the snake. Especially if it gets in the water dish. Of course this is all dependant on what kind of bark it is. The younger the snake the more likely it is too harm them. As well as when they are in shed mode as the new skin is highly absorbant to chemicals.

 

[atmox]

Does anyone have an opinion on EcoEarth?

http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752603

Would like to use bark or something that looks like bark but the FAQ here says that bark is bad for snakes.

I used reptibark a couple of months and i hated it! It gives you splinters, it can get under the scales of your snake and the pee and poop just fall trough making it a pain in the ass to clean it up. I'm actually gonna buy the product you linked and only heard good things of it on this forum. I'll search my topics and post a link to it here.

 

[atmox]

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=108455

 

[JeffDenver]

Yeah, it looks like that Coconut stuff works well. I used it when I had Hermit Crabs. I am going to try that first I think.

If it doesnt work out I still have the aspen bedding to fall back on.

 

[atmox]

Yeah, it looks like that Coconut stuff works well. I used it when I had Hermit Crabs. I am going to try that first I think.

If it doesnt work out I still have the aspen bedding to fall back on.

It's all personal preference
Any other questions that you need answered?

 

[JeffDenver]

Well, I got lucky. I was going to buy some equipment and a friend of mine hooked me up. His other friend bought a snake recently for his son and needed to unload it (he didnt tell me why). So for $40 I got a 10 gallon tank with UTH, two log hides, a mesh lid and...a baby corn snake.

I dont know where he got the snake but I do know it was from a local pet store. I hadnt planned on getting the snake this soon, but the snake alone is worth more than $40.

I swapped the ten gallon for the 15 gallon I already have. I also already had a florescent lamp and water dish I used for the hermit crabs. The driftwood and plants were from an aquarium I never set up. I bought them about a year ago. And I bought the substrate myself...I already had aspen bedding but I really like the look of that Eco Earth stuff, so thought I would try it.

Here is my setup:

Closer:

And here is my snake:

As of this writing he is pretty active, and exploring the tank. I was afraid he might hide out for a week or so, but so far he hasnt used either of the hides I provided. He hung out under the big plant for about 20 minutes, but after that he started wandering around.

I have a 5 lb weight on the lid, and I think I am going to put another on on there before bed just in case.

 

[Dustilyn]

Cute little guy. He looks identical to two of ours. We live in Denver too so I would be curious where your snake came from. Feel free to ask me any local questions. I can tell you right away to avoid the local reptile store. It's tempting to want to take your new snake to them to have it sexed or just to show it off, but trust me, that's not a good idea.
You can buy pinkies from them, but it will be pricey. I'll be making a frozen rodent order soon and would be willing to add some pinkies to my order for you so you don't have to pay shipping. I think you would get 50 for somewhere around $9. That price will only buy you 5 or 6 if you buy local.

Since we get so dry here in the winter i give my guys humid hides. I just get little plastic food storage bowls, burn a snake sized hole in the top and fill it full of damp sphagnum moss. All of our snakes spend quite a bit of time in them and we have never had any shedding troubles.

I mostly use aspen bedding, but the fine coconut husks work good too. The coarsely cut coconut is no better than wood chips.

Sounds like you've got everything else under control. Congrats on the new baby.