collard_ghost
New member
I was wondering if brumation is a must for breeding corns? Would they still breed with out it?
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Need Brumation?
- Thread starter collard_ghost
- Start date
joelzstuff
New member
some more brumation Qs
For brumation what temps do you use and for how long?
The coolest that it gets where i live is in the high 60s durring the day and high 40s to low 50s, will this work for brumation?
thanks
Joel
For brumation what temps do you use and for how long?
The coolest that it gets where i live is in the high 60s durring the day and high 40s to low 50s, will this work for brumation?
thanks
Joel
joelzstuff
New member
Alex, Thanks
rachel132002
New member
also clutches are oftne smaller and weaker without brumation, breeding shortens their lives anyway but without brumation i think it does so more because of the extra toll it takes on them so always brumate them.
Rach
Rach
bmm
New member
I don't know where you guys are getting this information.
For one brumating has little to do with double clutching from what I have experienced and leared. This year my female had two large clutches, no brumation.
For two, brumation is normaly considered most beneficial for the male and his sperm, also to be able to track when the female is going to go into ovulation. They come out of brumation, usually have a shed and are going to ovulate then or around that time.
Three, no brumation most certainly does NOT mean smaller weaker clutches. Please come tell that to the 20 HUGE babies my female gave me this year without brumation, and her FIRST clutch ever. And all the people on the board who don't brumate but get large healthy clutches.
Stop regurgatating bad information. I am by NO means an expert on brumation but I did take the time to research the simple facts and bascis about it.
Collard Ghost: To answer your good question, no cornsnakes do not have to be brumated to breed. Like I mentioned mine gave me lots of babies last year, no probs, no brumation. It is however a way to give yourself a better chance since it stimulates them to "get in the mood" for both sexes and makes it easy to know when they are "in season" and ready to go sometimes. But you can most certainly try and succed without it! Good luck.
bmm
For one brumating has little to do with double clutching from what I have experienced and leared. This year my female had two large clutches, no brumation.
For two, brumation is normaly considered most beneficial for the male and his sperm, also to be able to track when the female is going to go into ovulation. They come out of brumation, usually have a shed and are going to ovulate then or around that time.
Three, no brumation most certainly does NOT mean smaller weaker clutches. Please come tell that to the 20 HUGE babies my female gave me this year without brumation, and her FIRST clutch ever. And all the people on the board who don't brumate but get large healthy clutches.
Stop regurgatating bad information. I am by NO means an expert on brumation but I did take the time to research the simple facts and bascis about it.
Collard Ghost: To answer your good question, no cornsnakes do not have to be brumated to breed. Like I mentioned mine gave me lots of babies last year, no probs, no brumation. It is however a way to give yourself a better chance since it stimulates them to "get in the mood" for both sexes and makes it easy to know when they are "in season" and ready to go sometimes. But you can most certainly try and succed without it! Good luck.
bmm
Chip
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒ&
Bmm and I are NOT the same person!
Although it would seem to be so, since we seem to always get in a ruffle responding to the same posts! (Talk about members with NO LIFE "Yeah, I registered twice under different names to agree with myself ")
Brumation is SO not necessary to breed corns. I do it religiously, for a number of reasons. Mostly, it's simply to have some "downtime" to care for fewer snakes and give those "kept awake" some handling time. I NEVER intentionally double clutch, and wouldn't brumate if I thought that would help lessen the chance of it happening.
On the other hand, I have had much stronger clutches than my corn breeding buddy, and he's convinced it's because he hasn't been brumating. I personally belive it's because I have stock closer to the wild and he's working with morphs. At any rate, I've agreed to brumate his this year for him, and we'll see if he has better luck next year. One thing's for certain, if you brumate, when the female comes out of that second shed, she's going to drive the males crazy -instant breeding, just add snake! He often had to pair his up a number of times to get breeding response.
Although it would seem to be so, since we seem to always get in a ruffle responding to the same posts! (Talk about members with NO LIFE "Yeah, I registered twice under different names to agree with myself
") Brumation is SO not necessary to breed corns. I do it religiously, for a number of reasons. Mostly, it's simply to have some "downtime" to care for fewer snakes and give those "kept awake" some handling time. I NEVER intentionally double clutch, and wouldn't brumate if I thought that would help lessen the chance of it happening.
On the other hand, I have had much stronger clutches than my corn breeding buddy, and he's convinced it's because he hasn't been brumating. I personally belive it's because I have stock closer to the wild and he's working with morphs. At any rate, I've agreed to brumate his this year for him, and we'll see if he has better luck next year. One thing's for certain, if you brumate, when the female comes out of that second shed, she's going to drive the males crazy -instant breeding, just add snake! He often had to pair his up a number of times to get breeding response.
rachel132002
New member
lmao i stand corrected i just read in a book somewhere they do *shrugs* ill take it 1st hand from uz then.
Rach
Rach
h0mersimps0n
New member
didn't brumate- fed male and female all through winter. My female TRIPLE clutched last summer. Clutch sizes of 19,19,15 (success was 15,14,0). She surprised me with the third clutch (and upset me cause I was very concerned about her weight and health). Luckily she is a good eater and I was able to obtain vitamines for her and she is back up to health...
Other's will strongly disagree with me on the follow but I don't care:
even though I say I didn't brumate, my dorm room temperatures were definitely cooler at times and humidity variable as well. All I'm getting at is even though people say they are not brumating, I think that many times even slight changes in temperature or humidity (probably relative humidity to explain those in non-snow belts) can be detected as "winter time" for the snakes hormones (whoremoans).
anyway, good luck, brumating will just raise your chances of successfull breeding in the spring. No guarentee's w/o...
Other's will strongly disagree with me on the follow but I don't care:
even though I say I didn't brumate, my dorm room temperatures were definitely cooler at times and humidity variable as well. All I'm getting at is even though people say they are not brumating, I think that many times even slight changes in temperature or humidity (probably relative humidity to explain those in non-snow belts) can be detected as "winter time" for the snakes hormones (whoremoans).
anyway, good luck, brumating will just raise your chances of successfull breeding in the spring. No guarentee's w/o...
Clint Boyer
'Former' Snake slave
Some additional input.........
I've bred with brumation and without. Most of the w/o are young females/males just comming up to breeding size.
I've had mixed results. Anytime you come up against averages, you need a pretty wide range of animals in your test group. If someone says they have 'these' results, look at the test base. If it is very small, the results can be extremely lopsided.
In my opinion, individuals will react differently to external stimuli. You may have snakes that don't need brumation or you may have those that react better if they are brumated.
As stated before, even w/o artifically induced brumation, they will react to light and barametric changes. A natural brumation, if you please.
I personally brumate all snakes that are close to breeding size. I really need a break from feeding several hundred snakes all summer!
I've bred with brumation and without. Most of the w/o are young females/males just comming up to breeding size.
I've had mixed results. Anytime you come up against averages, you need a pretty wide range of animals in your test group. If someone says they have 'these' results, look at the test base. If it is very small, the results can be extremely lopsided.
In my opinion, individuals will react differently to external stimuli. You may have snakes that don't need brumation or you may have those that react better if they are brumated.
As stated before, even w/o artifically induced brumation, they will react to light and barametric changes. A natural brumation, if you please.
I personally brumate all snakes that are close to breeding size. I really need a break from feeding several hundred snakes all summer!
Skye
New member
I do brumate those of breeding size. Having said that, I didn't brumate one small boy last winter, and he was successful father of two clutches this year - all fertile. An experiment that worked if you like. Rather risky to let him be the only boy with two breeding age females, but it worked out.
I do believe that brumating animals lets them rest, recouperate and live longer as a result.
Skye
I do believe that brumating animals lets them rest, recouperate and live longer as a result.
Skye