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new to corns got some qs

cole

New member
ok my first question is if i use news paper as my substrate will the snake get ink all over it because i know the print on the news paper comes off very easily and also im using a blacklight for my corn and im afraid that it may hurt him, does it matter what type of the light you use as heating and also how long should it take a corn to shed because ive been feeding him pretty heftaly and he hasnt shed in a few months
thanks for your help!
 
1) The news print won't come off on the snake in my experience. If it gets wet, you'll be replacing it anyway.

2) Most would recommend undertank heater (UTH) + thermostat for heating a Corn, but lights are OK as long as they're a) regulated i.e. can't overheat the tank, and b) guarded so that the snake can't come into contact with either the bulb, the housing or anything that's directly heated by the bulb. I've never used a blacklight so can't comment on that specifically. If it isn't regulated, check the temperature at floor level to make sure it's not overheating the snake. Mid-80s is really as high as it should get.

3) Shedding frequency depends on how old the snake is - they shed less often as they grow. My hatchlings shed every 4-6 weeks, my adults shed 4-5 times a year.
 
From what I've read in books and online, blacklights aren't very effective for that.. It won't hurt the snake, mind you, but it is very unlikely that it would keep the tank warm enough.. Personally, I prefer to use the under tank heat pad. I keep it under one side of the tank(which is specifically made for housing reptiles) and my snake is very happy with it. It's also nice to not have to fuss with turning a light on & off all the time! :p
 
Hey Cole, that blacklight is in fact bad for your snake's eyes. The phosphorous coating in the cheap blacklights is worst, but even the hi quality ones emit at harmful wavelengths for reptile eyes and is recommended only for short exposure with blindness and potential tumors resulting from long term exposure. UTH's regulated with at least a rheostat (lamp dimmer, $10 Home Depot) is best. If it's cold enough in your house a ceramic heater ($35 last 3-4 years) or quality red bulb like with Zoo-Med (the EU standard bulbs are great, and won't burn your house down like the cheap plastic wrapped bulbs out there - really, they're plastic wrapped, and melt off the bulbs, don't use them) to supplement. Invest the $35 for a temp-gun. They are light saber cool. Take the temp reading on the glass inside the tank (move the substrate away to get reading) where the UTH is. For a glass tank I put the UTH on a tile under the tank and use empty cat food cans as lifters to keep the tank up. The dimmers take some dialing in, then a piece of duct tape to keep them from getting knocked around. Check your temps at least every other day. I'm a bit OCD, and check them twice a day, mostly. A digital probe thermometer can help too, if placed on the glass. Glass temp is important for 2 reasons: 1. If that's the hottest spot, your snake can't burn, and 2. Snakes need belly heat to digest. But it's good to supplement the ambient temps as well, otherwise the snake can go for all the warmth it can get from the ground and still chill above leading to respiratory infections and the like. Generally, in their native environment, the ground is mildly cooler than the air, and that's a reason El. gut are predominantly a southern species. The air tends to the warmer side, even at night.

As far as newspaper goes, I avoid it. The printing process including cleaners and ink, is exceedingly toxic. And ink does rub off on your skin and to a lesser degree due to scalation, your snake's. It may actually make your snake look shinier - the inks are great for cleaning glass, try it for cleaning your tank, but it isn't really good for them. Snakes have a greater sensitivity to chemicals than we do, due to the smaller body and more limited liver capacity. Will it prove to be carcinogenic? I don't know. It has for (human) printers, in fact the high toxicity levels in printing are of major concern to many printers. Then again, people have been keeping snakes on it successfully for years. People have been eating raw eggs, too, successfully for many long years, but I say scrambled, if you got them. Can and should are often far apart in my book. I tried the Care-Fresh paper pellet bedding, but it didn't insulate the heat as well as I'd have hoped. As I said; I avoid paper. But it's your call. Personally, I really like coconut coir for retaining moisture, and for durability, and it seems easier to deal with, for me, than aspen. With daily spot cleaning, and weekly turning it lasts up to 8 weeks between changes with my more "neat" snakes. Keep a towel or cloth over the screen top or it dries out quickly. Just cover whatever isn't covered by the heat lamp. And the final decision maker on the subject here, the snakes seem to like it best.

A young corn should shed every couple or so weeks, by a year about 6 weeks, and bi-monthly after that. What size are you feeding and how often? A hatchling can eat every other day; an adult my friend has (a 585g M Coral Snow named Lorien) gets a mouse every 5 weeks and would eat weekly if allowed to. You may look up the Munson feeding plan here on cornsnakes.com for a _general_guideline, bearing in mind that every snake will be different. Invest in a kitchen/dietary scale at Target ($40 on sale now) that weighs in grams. A postal scale would work too, digital is always best. Keeping weight/shed/regurge/temp/cleaning records is a great idea and will be valuable to your vet, should the need ever arise. Takes 2 minutes to set-up in Numbers (Excel for those who are slow to join the revolution) and minutes a month. Gives a great overview of the growth of your snake. Photos are great to include too.

Good luck with everything.....
 
Oh yeah.... I avoid it except for using unbleached unprinted recycled and tear-to-size paper towels (what can I say, I live in Marin) for neonates/quarantine/special breeding care needs. Can't beat it for that.....
 
Yep. Blacklights emit high levels of UVA. While UVA is relatively safe compared to UVB and C, continuous exposure to high levels of it can cause cataracts to form on the eyes. Granted it takes A LOT of UVA for that to happen, but having an animal with no eyelids too close to something emitting a large amount of UVA already probably isn't the greatest thing.
 
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