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New to Corns; Share your experience?

Nature

New member
Hello, I'm new to this forum, though I have been reading through it for the past couple of days. In time, I wish to get a corn, and I've been researching info for the past couple of months. The main issue at the moment is money, so until everything is stable, I think waiting would be wise. ;)

I've kept many animals, but never a reptile. I can understand heating and temperatures, and yet the setup is a bit overwhelming to me, what with the variety of options available.

Lighting and heating is confusing, as I've read about the recommendation of providing UV lighting for snakes, though it is not ultimately necessary, as well as heating lamps. I wonder over what sort of lights to purchase, if at all, as well as wattage and brands for either. I've read about people's preference for red heat lamps to use 24/7, providing heat and visibility of the snake at dark hours, but does that affect at all the recommended night heat? I do understand the need of providing both light and night time to the snake.

With a smaller juvenile vivarium made of those plastic pet cages, I've read that a heating pad will simply do, as lighting and overhead heating would not work well with a full plastic top. I wonder about heating pads with such cages though. What sort of heating pads are better? Store bought human heating pads, or the specialized reptile heaters? Any danger of melting the plastic? I do recall the suggestion of using a tile and providing air space for the reptile heating pad, would that also be recommended for regular human heating pads? There was also a preference of wrapping them in terrycloth towels to lessen the direct impact of heat, is there any fire danger in that?

I was thinking about getting a tank, and using that smaller plastic cage for feeding to avoid problems with substrate. When you feed a snake in a separate container though, do you have a heating pad for that one as well? Or do you place the snake back in it's vivarium to nestle up in the warmer half?

I took an interest to natural vivariums, with a lava rock drainage layer, charcoal filtering/purifying layer, and then topsoil and safe plants. But I later wondered if it was more trouble than was necessary, by means of bacteria, or if it would prove difficult to properly clean and maintain. I also wasn't sure if it'd be necessary to clean the whole thing out at some point or not, and so I may just settle on bark or aspen shavings as a substrate. Easier to clean and manage, good enough for burrowing.. :)

I have read a lot, and so all the different opinions and preferences get a bit muddled in my mind. As I have not actually seen nor had experience with many of these things, it's hard to choose what things would be best. The thermostat seems like a good idea, but I'm not entirely sure how they work to manage the temperatures. I was wondering if I should keep a new snake on paper towels for the first month, to monitor it's health and keep a lookout for any problems, but I'm concerned about how to care for it while changing and stabilizing the tank after that period. If I kept it temporarily in the plastic cage, then it would seem as though more thermometers and a heating pad would be necessary to keep it comfortable.

My imagination could be making things more complicated than they really are. ;) The basic idea of it, is what do you do with your snake while giving the whole tank a good clean? I know they can be hardy critters, but I don't want to be utterly careless.

I'd just like to know what your thoughts might be, so that I can put together a safe, interesting and healthy environment for my future corn snake. :)
 
Hi and Welcome.

I had the same doubts when I started, what I did I went for the simple, gotta a 29 Gal aquarium, with screen and top and secure lids, all used for $50.00 (USD). Then I bought a Under Tank Heating (UTH) reptile pad and a Termostat, for substract I use paper towel, cheap and efective, you can monitor how your snake are pooping and any regurgitation specially in a hatch or yearling. For hides you can get almost anything, I bought some, but I have also paper towel roll, the midle and a small carton box. I do not use light because I can have natural light for my guy, luck ;) .

Also take a look at those forum links:

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6365

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6587

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6471

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=945

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=6279
 
let me post what i think to be a suitable setup for your new tank

the tank itself should be about 3 foot in lenght, about a foot wide and perhaps 18 inches tall.. god knows how many gallons that is but hey i`m british and we do things our way and let the americans bumble along with their own misguided measurements :p

for substrate, well, theres loads of choices.. aspen, reptibark,cornchip kitty litter,papertowels
only things to avoid are sand and pine chippings/bark as they both can cause problems

heating - you want daytime temps of 90degress at the hot end and maybe 75 cool end. how you acheive this depends on your local climate - 7 watt under tank heater and 60 watt blue reptile heat lamp, both thermostacally controlled should suffice - get the tank setup b4 you get a snake and experiment till you get it right.
the light should go off overnight as the overnight temperature doesnt need to be any more than 80 degrees

Humidity - important for the health of your snake as corns are from naturally humid areas. i find a water bowl rigth over the heat pad gives enough vapouration to keep things comfy. a second water bowl at teh other end for drinking is recommended.

Hides - a snake can never have too many hides! you want at least three - on at each end and another in the middle so that the snake has somewhere to hide at the temperature of its choice.. cork bark and ceramic hides are good, also when my corn was a baby i used a poster tube, cut to about six inches in lenght and with a plastic cap fitted to one end to make a small cave. she`s out grown it now like but she liked it a lot when she was young.

LID - must be escape proof! can`t be stressed enough - corns are great escape artists! must also provide ventilation.

feeding - dont need to worry about heat at feeding time. feed in that plastic container or even on your own dining table!as long as the snake is hungry and the mouse is the right size it should be ok. place the snake back in its tank after and it will snuggle up and sleep for 2 days to digest - dont handle in that time as they dont like it when their bellies are full!

that should do you :p
have fun!
 
hehe...bumbling american reply...

...'ey mate lol...I think he's describing a 29 gallon aquarium, which would house 1 corn for the rest of its life comfortably...rest of the post is right on, with the exception of the heat, and this is jmho a little high...But what works for some doesn't for others...Corns are a great "experimentation" snake in that they are very tolerant throughout a spectrum of caging, heat, humidity, etc...peace and enjoy :*)

Chris
 
rather new owner too...

Welcome to our pozzie!

Sounds like you did enough research to last a life-time, and it's fantastic that you did the effort.

My corn was my firts reptile too, and it's fun easy and rather hassle free (once you get things done).

I suggest contacting Babydragon, she's in canada too and can probably tell you where to find snakes.

Secondly, you've proved to already be doing effort and caring for your snake to be, so as long as you keep that passion your snake will be more than happy!

Any difficulties? That's what these blokes are here for!

O, almost forgot, thermostats are easy to work and your local petshop should be able to assist you with proper usage.

Good Luck and enjoy!
 
That is too funny

Does anyone else find it ironic that an Englishman speaks of "bumbling Americans" on the eve of the 227th anniversary the signing of the Declaration of Independence? :D


(Nothing personal, blito ;) )

Happy 4th everyone. Have a safe holiday weekend!
 
Thanks for the welcomes and replies, guys. It's great to get such help so soon! :) I've been paying attention to a local herp association in town, so I will be able to find out who can supply me with a corn, as well as mice.

I find myself coming across many useful threads through other threads that I'll look at, and so on. It's an interesting web of information you have here. ;) Those thermostat experiences sort of scare me, what with how they'd go and die or malfunction on people. I'm not terribly excited over the idea of spending around $100 US on a reliable one.. is there anything cheaper that's been dependable? I'd be worried about one of those busy days where I might get caught off-guard by an overheated tank.

What's better, a thermostat or a rheostat?

I still am wondering about what you all do with your snakes while cleaning out the whole tank and putting in a fresh batch of substrate. How are their needs met during that period? It's not something I've seen in any caresheets or threads. <:}

Scorpionking, for the natural light, would that then mean that you have your vivarium close to a window, in a well naturally-lit room, or in the path of direct sunlight? I somewhat recall something about direct sunlight as being ill advised, likely because of the temperature variations..? I'm just wondering. :)

There's a couple other things I've been thinking about. Is there a preferable time of day to handle your snakes? When they happen to be awake in the day, or when they are active at night? And then, at night, them finding too much light stressful, would that be in a darker room, or you simply take them into the light for a little while? Or do ya'll just reach right on in and disturb their naps? ^^;

The other little thing I've long wondered about, is what those varied numbers and decimals mean in many of your signatures, placed before your pet's type and name. Like this: 0.1 Ghost Corn (name)

Thank you, again. I'm sorry to bombard you all with so many questions. :eek:
 
0.1.0 would be
no males . 1 female . 0 sex undetermined

2.0.1 would be
2 males.0 girlies.1 sex unknown


as for my earlier post - the temps were the upper end of the range - my own tank is about 5 degrees cooler than that

and to all my bumbling american friends... happy independance day!
(obviously this is not a day we brits take much notice of becuase it would be unfair to recognize american independance day if we didnt recognize the independance days of all our former colonies....with the way british history goes we`d have about 500 holidays a year that way! LoL. but one good note... at least were nice enough to people to give them their independance when they wanted - a less humanitarian regime than ours would have stamped their authority on the colonies aggressively, creating more discontent and anger and ulitmately, more bloodshed than was historic. Huzzah for the compassionate brits! lol :) )
/end tongue-in-cheek mode

happy independance day friends :)
 
Ah, I thank you for that. I've seen the numbers in a few places, and it's been floating about in my mind for a while. ;)

Thank you for the links CowBoy, I've read them, some recently obtained from similar helpful answers to other threads here. You might not believe how many caresheets and info pages I have bookmarked.. x_x;;

I'm still wondering if anyone can fill me in on some of those unanswered questions, such as about rheostats vs. thermostats, or how to safely take care of my corn-to-be while busy cleaning out its home.

Anything, links or your own experiences, would be muchly appreciated. :D
 
Care whilst cleaning.

My snake lives in a glass encloosure (for now), but I stole a nicely sized piece of tupperware from my mother and cut ventilation in the top and that's where my baby stays while cleaning. Although it's not heated, but he does not stay there for very long.

I also have a different 'enclosure' or 'box' for feeding which I heat to 28C before dropping the snake and food in. Then I open the side of the box (when foods in mouth) and put the whole feeding-hide in the enclosure. He won't move till he's ready and I don't have to handle him after dinner at all. When he's gone out the feed-hide I remove it till next week.

Hope it helps.
 
Nature said:

Scorpionking, for the natural light, would that then mean that you have your vivarium close to a window, in a well naturally-lit room, or in the path of direct sunlight? I somewhat recall something about direct sunlight as being ill advised, likely because of the temperature variations..? I'm just wondering. :)

Hi,

I have the enclosure in the midle of the room with two windows in each side, that gives natural light without a direct sunlight. And yes you are right about direct sunlight.
I hope that helps :D
 
Beware: Long reply

I have a few more points, although most points have already been made:
1. NO CEDAR!!!! don't even feed mice that have been kept on cedar! Also, make sure that when you are buying mice, they are not mice being sold as pet mice, as the pet shop could keep them in an area that was treated for fleas and other bugs, which means that pesticide can (and probably did kill my snake) kill your snake.
2. I recommend feeding frozen/thawed mice to your snake. A dead mouse never hurt a snake, whereas a live one has done much damage, including biting, blinding, and killing snakes.
3. If you can afford it, go for the thermostat. But they do cost more than the rheostats do.
4. Unless you live in the artic circle and your house is that cold, you do not need to provide any heat while your snake is in his feeding/cleaning temporary home. However, be aware that the temporary home must also be escape proof, as snakes do escape from their feeding boxes.
5. It doesn't reallly matter when you handle your snake, as far as the time of day. Just don't handle him for about 48 hours after feeding (although directly after feeding, you can put him back into the tank), as you risk regurging. And if he should happen to regurge, let him recover for at least one week after the first regurge with absolutely no handling or otherwise bothering him. Do not feed him during that time, and when you do feed him, use a smaller mouse than normal. After that feeding, don't handle him again for a week. If he regurges a second time after this, take him to a qualified experienced reptile vet.
6. Remember that snakes can get irritable when they are getting ready to shed, so leave him alone during that time. He might go off feed during this time, also. You should consider increasing the humidity during that time, either by spraying the time a few times a day or by providing a humidity box (which is just a container filled with a moist medium, such as damp spagnum moss or some other type of material).

I also suggest that you buy "The Cornsnake Manual" by Bill & Kathy Love to keep on hand.

I hope this helps. Let us know what kind of corn snake you choose.
sue
 
I bought my baby about 5weeks ago and it took around 8weeks to buy everything and htis is what i have


a plastic 18" x 8" tank with secure lid with air holes £16.00

a small heat mat from reptitherm or usm **** £15.00

a thermostat £30

substrate of wood chips £5.95

a combined rouch surfaced hide/water bowl £10.00

and the pinkies my snake eats are 35p each

my snake is meant to be an albino and was £40.00

This took 8weeks nad i'm 15 so it's not too hard!

I keep the tank at 85 in the hot end and its roughly 72-75in the cool i think (Blaze seems happy enough), i change the water each morning, all bedding once a month and spot clean in between, feeding a pinkie every 4days.

Convert all this into dollars or whatever you use in canada and youll see it's NOT that much and things are a lot cheaper there due to higher suppply so good luck, hope i helped!

Rach
 

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Thank you both for such great information, it's a great help to me. I'll be sure to let you all know what kind of corn snake I choose.

Aww, Blaze is a lovely corn, Rachel. What a sweety! :)
 
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