• Hello!

    Either you have not registered on this site yet, or you are registered but have not logged in. In either case, you will not be able to use the full functionality of this site until you have registered, and then logged in after your registration has been approved.

    Registration is FREE, so please register so you can participate instead of remaining a lurker....

    Please be certain that the location field is correctly filled out when you register. All registrations that appear to be bogus will be rejected. Which means that if your location field does NOT match the actual location of your registration IP address, then your registration will be rejected.

    Sorry about the strictness of this requirement, but it is necessary to block spammers and scammers at the door as much as possible.

Ok to handle new snake?

Kidme

New member
I don't really know if this is the appropriate forum, but I hope so.

I bought a corn snake 4 days ago. I haven't been handling her since that was the recommendation. I would put my hand in so she can sniff me and such, but didn't attempt to pick her up at all. It never got into striking position and she was always out in the open when I did this, so I wasn't harassing her. As a matter of fact, she's out of her hide way more than she's ever in.

Anyway, today I was just way too tempted to handle her after she crawled into my hands. It wasn't a hesitated crawl like when she crawled over my hand while attempting not to touch it like the days before. So, I gave it a go and she seemed just fine! No striking, no musking, just crawled around. When I put her back, she just crawled around in her tank like nothing ever happened. Didn't dart off or anything. I handled her again this evening when she also crawled into my hand and right now she's just roaming the tank like usual.

I did note some clear wet stuff with white specs in it on top of her hide after I put her back the first time, but it didn't really smell. If it didn't smell, it can't be musk right? I read that they only pee when they poop though. So I'm a little confused. Was it just pee, or a result of stress or something?

Do you think it's ok if I continue handling her? I know each snake is different and she doesn't seem stressed, but if you experts tell me I should knock it off until it has been 7 days then I will. I just love my little snake so much! heh. I'm still going to wait until later in the week to feed her though. Waiting to get my thermostat so I can make sure my temps are steady.
 
Hmm, it seems as if she doesn't mind being handled. I've read 5-7 days on not handling.

I actually am here to say that they don't always pee and poop at the same time. I had my yearling crawling around in the bathroom and she peed along the tub but no poop!
 
Yeah same here my baby corn he will pee without poop being in it lol and he has poop on me from holding him too lol so don't be shock if she does it. ;)
 
Honestly Kidme, it seems she handles just fine and it would be ok to continue to do so. I usually handle them for about 30 mins a day and in the evenings when they are usually active naturally.
Snakes can pee without poop! Pee will have white specs which I believe are nitrates in it. Some snakes will pee when you handle them so be prepared LOL it doesnt mean they dont like you it just happens sometimes.

It sounds to me like you are doing a great job and we all have been there as new snake owners. I am by no means an expert. Just adding my two cents from my experience :)
 
From Sean Niland of VMS Herp. Lizard advice not removed.

Acclimating Your New Pet
General Acclimation

You've just received your shipment, opened the box and there's your new friend staring up at you from the inside of a deli cup. Now what?

Glad you asked, because what happened to your pet during transit was pretty frightening. What happens next can be even more traumatic, depending on how you acclimate your new pet. Please take a few moments to read the following paragraphs, hopefully before you receive your shipment, so that you know what to do to minimize further stress on your new reptile.

There's a few simple rules to follow which can really ease the transition from their old home here at VMS (the only home they ever knew) to the new home somewhere else in the United States.

First, resist the temptation to tear into the box and dig out your new pet. I know this is hard, but please take just a moment to collect one critical piece of information - the temperature inside the box upon arrival. Just quietly crack the lid and slip a thermometer inside. This information can be very helpful if you should need to contact us later regarding difficulties in getting your pet to settle in.

Second, resist the urge to handle your new pet for a few days. VMS is a commercial breeding facility, housing many hundreds of baby reptiles at any given time. As a result, they rarely get handled other than for routine maintenance and cage cleaning. Your new pet may view being handled as yet another stressful event following the trauma of being packaged up and shipped across the US, ending up in some strange new place. Give them time to settle in and start feeding before attempting to handle them. When you do decide handle them, do it inside the cage if possible or at least on the floor. Odds are high they will be nervous and easily startled - jumping out of your hand for a five foot plunge to the floor can be fatal! Handle only for a few minutes at first, increasing the time spent handling each day until your new pet no longer minds at all.

Third, resist the urge to unceremoniously dump your new pet into his new spacious cage. This can be another real shocker to them. Instead, set the deli cup inside the cage and gently pry off the lid. Turn out the lights on the cage (or even the room if very bright) and quietly withdraw, allowing the reptile to venture out and explore the new surroundings at will. This increases the chances of successfully locating the hide area and water dish, etc. without panicking.
Special Notes About Feeding

Please, don't even think about feeding your new pet immediately. Sadly, this is the first thing most newcomers to reptile keeping try to do. Odds are very high that your new lizard or snakes will be too frightened to feed. Attempting to feed under these conditions can have several negative consequences. Here's a list of points to consider:

Uneaten live rodents and crickets may actually turn to your new pet as a food source, gnawing on exposed areas of your new pet! Too frightened to come out of hiding, your new reptile may receive some serious damage.

Most of the reptiles we sell are nocturnal and feed best in low light conditions. It's best to offer food in the evening or early morning hours, before bright lights and a lot of household activity disturb your pet.

Feed very sparingly the first few weeks after arrival. Feed snakes smaller meals than normal and give lizards fewer crickets than normal. The stresses of shipping can often upset their digestive systems, and large meals may be regurgitated, causing additional problems.

Also, avoid handling your new reptile before attempting to feed. It's more important that it resume a regular feeding schedule than anything else. Many keepers have the idea that snakes should always be moved to a separate container for feeding. While that may be fine for a very well-established feeder, a recently transported and scared individual is best left alone before attempting to feed.

Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.

Lizards seem to get over it all a little quicker than snakes, especially very young geckos. Waiting two days is usually sufficient. Even then, feed sparingly! A couple crickets is plenty to tempt your new pet, and you can always add a few more if you see them get eaten. But two dozen crickets running about can be a bit frightening to an already nervous little lizard! Remember, less is better.

Larger geckos may require longer periods to adjust, with some adults refusing to feed well for several weeks! Some keepers report success tempting stubborn large specimens with wax worms, which seem to have an irresistible wiggle when they crawl. But most will simply resume feeding one day as if nothing had ever happened.
A Final Thought:

It is of prime importance that your new pet be allowed to settle in and acclimate fully. Constant stress during the acclimation period should be avoided. With proper care and conditions, you should have your new pet for years to come. There will be lots of time to mess with them later - for now, give them a rest!
 
Thanks for that info nanci. I suppose, just to be safe, I'll stop taking her out until 48 hours after her first feed. One plus though is that she wasn't shipped since I got her from petco which is less than a 10fraud min walk from my house. Nevertheless, waiting a couple extra days wont hurt. Its just hard lol
 
Thank you Nanci! I have 2 new ones coming today, FedEx is running very late and I'm not happy, but I'm just going to put them in their viv like you said.
 
One thing that is helpful to me is take a few pics right when they arrive, to tide me over until feeding day! Also, I like to have a bowl of room temp water to float them in for a drink. Sometimes they will drink right away. Sometimes while they are relaxing and floating I can get a good picture!
 
I've seen mine drink water. It's so fascinating when it's your first snake! Lol Ive got many phoyos on my phone already.

good luck on a safe and timely (or as timely as possible at this point) arrival schnebbles!
 
So, I'll just put them right by the water? I guess. They did arrive finally, about 5-1/2 hours late! They are fine though, the heat pack was still hot. I'm finishing with the vines then I'll take the lids off.
 
ultramel charcoal 66% BR and a charcoal, 66% Amel, Anery,BR. They are cute! They have both gotten out of their deli cups and drank. I was supposed to get a male just like the female but he died before they were due to ship out so I had to choose the next best!

I really, really want those cinders Carol has but I just don't think I had better get more snakes right now.
 
It has 12-18 years to get used to being handled. And most times they don't have to be "tamed".
I VERY VERY rarely handle babies, adults are just so much better for handling......and by the time the babies are a good size for handling (for me a year old) most of the time they are very calm and fine with it.
By then it knows its surroundings and it knows you are not out to hurt it.
Leaving a baby alone so it can acclimate itself to its new home seems to be what is best for it.
 
It's still fascinating for me to see mine drink now! If she's fine with you handleing her, I wouldn't be too nervous. I do suggest washing off the hide with soap and water though.
 
Back
Top