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Possible Combination Question

C

ChiliCat

New member
I currently own 2 corns that are both somewhere around 5-6 months old each. They are both my first corns and I adore both of them, they are much easier then my BP! Anyways, I am in the process of ording a rack system from Animal Plastics so that I can conserve room and just be able to control temps/humdity better then you can in a glass take...though the corns don't really have problems as much as the BP does...Enough ranting!

I probably will get more corns at whatever reptile show I go to next year, probably at the MARS show again. I think I would like to get 2, another male and another female. My fiance shows a preference in snows and blizzards.

I have a hypo okeetee female and an anery motley male.

What should I buy at the next show so that if I breed them in the years to come, I would not get normals? What are possible combos of different morphs I could get? Also, I do not want the same corns like getting another anergy motley to breed with the one anery mot male I have. Does that make any sense?
 
You could buy a snow motley female to pair with your anery motley male:
Male = Anerythristic, Motley
Female = Snow, Motley
Offspring predicted as:
---------------------------------------------------
100.00% Anerythristic, Motley (het. Amelanistic)


You could pair your Hypo female to a Hypo Lavendar male:
Male = Hypomelanistic, Lavender
Female = Hypomelanistic
Offspring predicted as:
---------------------------------------------------
100.00% Hypomelanistic (het. Lavender)


or you can pair your Hypo female male to a Phantom male (Charcoal + Hypo):
Male = Charcoal, Hypomelanistic
Female = Hypomelanistic
Offspring predicted as:
---------------------------------------------------
100.00% Hypomelanistic (het. Charcoal)


.... do you know if your 2 - 5 month old corns are het for anything?
 
Don't BPs need access to daytime temps around 90 degrees? That's a little warm for a corn. Granted, there is usually a temp difference between the top and bottom shelves of a rack, but this sounds tricky. If you were going to attempt this, you'd definitely want to get a rack that is narrow from the front (long from front to back) as opposed to the wide ones that are shallower. This would give you more working room with the heat gradient for the corns.

Your fiance likes snows, so get a snow motley. This would produce more anery mots (het amel) with your current anery mot. There's a high likelihood that your anery mot is het for amel (the majority of corns are at least het for it), so you might even get a split of snow mots and anery mots in the offspring.

Do you know which hypo (i.e. Hypo A, Sunkissed, Lava, Ultra) your hypo Okeetee is? That will be essential to know if your goal is to produce non-normals. It's probably standard Hypo A, so you'd want to find another hypo or hypo-combo morph to avoid producing normals. I'd go with something cool like a hypo-lav, or a phantom (hypo-charcoal).

These are only suggestions. If you're not up on genetics and corn morphs, I strongly encourage you to do so before you hit a show next year. Then you can get what you want, and you'll know exactly what kind of offspring they'll produce with the snakes you have. Good luck. :)
 
Yeah, I know the rack system is tricky. But I am going to get it to work somehow.

I have no clue if they are hets. I purchased both from Serpenco at the MARS show if that helps out at all. The hypo is a hypo A okeetee.

I didn't know they had hypo lav! I am pretty sure we will end up getting a motley snow from the looks of it.
 
ChiliCat said:
Yeah, I know the rack system is tricky. But I am going to get it to work somehow.
Click to expand...
Actually, the more I thought about this, the less tricky it became. If I was going to attempt this, I'd probably get back heat for the narrow rack. I'd also ask AP if the lids could be used with the tubs for the rack I was ordering (I have AP Sterilite 1754 and 1756 racks, and I use the lids). I'd make sure of this because it would give you the option of sliding the corns' tubs beyond the edge of the rack to give you as much room as you need to distance the tubs from the back heat. I doubt that you would need more than 2-3 inches, and this short distance wouldn't jeopardize security, or make clips necessary. I think you can pull this off. :cheers:
 
ChiliCat said:
It is also an open rack, so I think that would help too?
Click to expand...
Help what, though? You still need to keep the back of the boa tub at around 90 (in the top shelf, of course), and you'd still need to knock four or five degrees off that for the corn tubs. Yeah, the open rack design will help dissipate heat better than a closed rack, but you can hardly call that an advantage. In fact, it's likely that this will cause the heating cable to be on more of the time, which may not aid in cooling the corns. My only point is that I don't think an open or closed design makes much difference to the challenge you're facing. But I still think that you can do it (with lids). :)

:-offtopic I'm looking at those open AP racks too.
 
ChiliCat said:
Yeah, I know the rack system is tricky. But I am going to get it to work somehow.
Click to expand...

ChiliCat said:
they are much easier then my BP!
Click to expand...

If you're having difficulty with your BP now just wait until you have it at incorrect temps!
I don't think it's a good idea to tamper with the heat on your rack. It could cause a fire hazard or you might end up breaking it. Fill your rack with corns, or use the empty spaces for storage.

Get a proper tank for your BP and keep his heating separate!
 
GiantBlueberry said:
If you're having difficulty with your BP now just wait until you have it at incorrect temps!
I don't think it's a good idea to tamper with the heat on your rack. It could cause a fire hazard or you might end up breaking it. Fill your rack with corns, or use the empty spaces for storage.

Get a proper tank for your BP and keep his heating separate!
Click to expand...
ChiliCat wouldn't have to tamper with the heat, or misuse the heating cable in any way. CC would be setting things up so that the top rack shelf, which is the hottest, would be at proper temps for the BP. The corn tubs' proper temps would be achieved by spacing them somewhat from the back heat.
 
When I say that corns are easier then BP's that doesn't have anything to do with heat control in cages. My BP is a rescue so she requires alot more care then my corns, due to the damage she suffered. Bad sheds, skinny, etc. She requires a little more TLC. Trust me, I have a proper tank and I take wonderful care of her. I didn't leave her in a small tank full of her own waste with no water for months on end like her ex owner!

And no, I'm not going to tamper with the heat either. I see what Roy means and it can easily work, especially since the corns require smaller tubs as juv's and even as adults.
 
FWIW I've kept adult ball pythons in the same rack as corns at the same temps with no problems. I had a pair in the top two bins and the corns underneath.

Ball pythons do not need a lot of room; they feel more secure in something smaller like a tub for corns. They also benefit from hideboxes that they can just fit into and feel it all around them :*)
 
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