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Questions regarding my first snake

Morticia

Morticia

New member
Hello everyone

Already have a few questions I'd like to ask:

I have a 12watt UTH and a 40watt heating light, the guy at the shop told me I had to turn on the light by day and the UTH by night (never turn em on both). This morning I saw the temperature was bout 69-70°, is this a tad too cold or just right for at night?
By day the temp. rises to about 78-80°.

Will I need an extra heating element for during the night? I thought about leaving the heating light on at night, but this will probably be too hot?

I've put my viv in my room so having a heating light on during the night isn't very comfortable ;-)

Thanx in advance
 
Where are you measuring the temperature inside the viv? What type of thermometer are you using (cheap stick-on or digital)?

The UTH I have on my 10 and 20gal Long tanks are only 5 watts. I would imagine that your UTH alone would probably be sufficient for heat. Do you have the box it came in? Does it give a recommended tank size to use it with?

It's always a good idea to have some way of regulating a UTH. A rheostat, thermostat, or even ceramic tile can do the job.

I always try to maintain a gradient of temps, even at night. So 69-70 would be okay for the cool side, but I still have my UTH creating a warm side in the low 80s for the snake to hangout as well. If they are digesting a meal and can't find enough warmth for an extended period, they could end up regurging.
78-80 in the day is probably good. It is generally said that hatchlings do better with temps in the low to mid 80s. It wouldn't be a bad idea to get the temps up a few degrees.
 
If its too hot for you, then its definetly too hot for them! Are body temp's are very high. The UTH is all you need for both day and night usually. Corns don't need overhead heat/light. (BTW, pet stores notoriously give bad advice! They also like to sell you extra stuff you don't need.) Are you measuring the heat underneath the bedding material where corns can burrow? That is the temp to go by for uth's, not the air temp. Generally if it feels hot (not just warm) to your hand, then it can burn them. Tell us about your set up.
 
Overhead lighting tends to dry out the air which could lead to problems with shedding. I use a uth regulated by a rheostat and have it set to keep the warm side at about 82 by night and up to 86-87 during the warmest time of the day. All my snakes hang out on the warm side for the first 2 days after a meal, then spend equal amounts of time on both sides.
 
My big display viv has heat from lights and to counter the drying effects I use a moist hide. Using this method I have good sheds all the time. My tubs are heated from below by heat mats for about 12-14 hours a day.

None of my snakes have anything more than room temperature at night.
 
Thnx 4 the replies already, but I'm wondering how you guys get your temps up like that!

You're heating your entire tank with a 5 Watt UTH while I'm having trouble heating my tank with a 12Watt UTH. Right now my overhead light is on and it's just 80°. I don't have a digital thermometer though, so I'll start looking for one soon.

My setup:

12Watt UTH
40Watt overhead heating
Hiding place on the left side, above my UTH.
Large drinking spot on the right side
Substrate is about 2inches thick, a kind of woody soft material.

I really want to do this right so any tips/advice is most welcome.
 
I dunno about the 5 vs 12 watt UTHs.

Do you have it directly attached to the underside of your viv?

A cheap (~$9US) indoor/outdoor digital thermometer is a great investment. Your temps may not be too bad, but the cheaper stick-on type thermometers just aren't always effective at giving accurate readings and it is dependent on where the thermometer is placed.
I like to measure the temp under the substrate on the warm side underneath the hide. If your snake ever decides to burrow, it could get on the glass so it is important to know that it's not too hot.

If your UTH isn't getting very hot, you can use less substrate under the warm-side hide. Maybe only use 3/4-1 inch instead of 2 inches. That should let more heat get through.

Also, another hide on the cool side is a must. Hatchlings like plenty of places to hide or they can get stressed out.
 
Ok so what you're suggesting is I turn off my overhead lighting, turn on the UTH and take away some substrate underneath the hiding places?

I'm gonna go find something to use as a replacement 2nd hiding place till I can buy something decent.

Thanks a lot for the help! Really wanna get these temps right before I start feeding Seth, will be Tuesday.
 
*where's the edit button here*

My thermometer is placed on the left side near his hide, it's not a stick-on but just one you place inside the substrate.
 
Personally, I wouldn't take away the light until you have an idea that your UTH is doing it's job and giving you the proper temperatures. That's where a handy thermometer with a probe comes in.

Once you've got a more accurate thermometer, if you find that your UTH isn't warm enough, then you can try thinning the substrate under the hide to help the heat get through.

It's great to know that you're concerned and committed to getting things right. :cool:

Just about anything can be used for cheap or temporary hides. Paper towel tubes cut in half lengthwise are great.

FYI, you can't edit unless you're a contributing member. :)
 
Well I've found a cardboard box from one of my previous cellulars, nice and big with a hole ontop for him to climb through.

Covered it with some substrate, but he hasn't come out to explore? Come to think of it, he hasn't come out at all 2day, I know he might still be adjusting to all that activity but we (my boyfriend and I) are still worried. We've had him for bout 3days now.
 
Many of my youngsters hide for the first few months. This is not at all abnormal as snakes run on their instincts. To his little brain, when he's outside his hide, something could eat him so he stays where he feels safe.

In the future you'll find he cruises a lot more but just let him be a recluse for now. :crazy02:
 
Also, it's most likely that he comes out when you're not around! It's like how some people say their snakes never drink....well they do, just not while they're being watched!
 
hehe thnx, it all makes sense actually lol. I'll try to get some pics online, once he's decided to show himself. Seen some very beautiful snakes here already, fully enjoyed browsing the photo gallery. :D

Thanks again for the help everyone
 
BTW, the whole temp shouldn't be warm, only one side where the uth is. So if you take the temperature, make sure it is underneath the substrate and on the UTH side. Also, corns are nocturanl, so they come out almost enitirely at night.
 
He came out yesterday for a while. I saw him drinking a few times by now , so he isn't that 'hidy'. The temp is now at night a little higher! (i've taken away some substrate), this night it was about 76°!

Seth (my snake) seems to be calmed down, yesterday he came out of his hiding place and crawled to the window, looking at me for some minutes, I think he isn't so scared anymore.
Now he is sleeping again (offcourse ;) )

Thnx for the help everone!
 
Once you get a digital thermometer, you should get a rheostat (lamp dimmer switch) so you can adjust the output of the UTH. A lot of UTHs get up to 100 degrees.

I would put a digital thermometer in the cage. Bury the probe under the substrate over the UTH. Keep the rest of the thermometer on the cool end. Hook up a rheostat and tune the UTH so the temp on the hot end is about 85 and leave it there.
 
Not to thread-'jack, but more paranoid mom stuff ...

I'm living proof that it all makes sense in the reading, but the reality is totally different! ...

<unnamed> Baby-Girl-Snake came home yesterday 3/13 to a 10 gal w/UTH. My proportional thermostat is set at 93.5 (sensor probe is under paper towels in the middle of where the UTH is attached). I'm only getting 80 on the warm end using a digital thermometer which is lying flat on top of the toweling. I'm paranoid about raising the thermostat much more for fear she'll get under the towels and burn herself.

At the same time, days are still fairly cool here and barely reach 70 during the day (temperature at the cool end of the tank at 11:00 a.m. is 68). Any useful tips for getting her a better 'hot spot' before her next meal in a couple of days?

Or am I just being paranoid?
 
Kitty said:
I'm living proof that it all makes sense in the reading, but the reality is totally different! ...

<UNNAMED>Baby-Girl-Snake came home yesterday 3/13 to a 10 gal w/UTH. My proportional thermostat is set at 93.5 (sensor probe is under paper towels in the middle of where the UTH is attached). I'm only getting 80 on the warm end using a digital thermometer which is lying flat on top of the toweling. I'm paranoid about raising the thermostat much more for fear she'll get under the towels and burn herself.

At the same time, days are still fairly cool here and barely reach 70 during the day (temperature at the cool end of the tank at 11:00 a.m. is 68). Any useful tips for getting her a better 'hot spot' before her next meal in a couple of days?

Or am I just being paranoid?
Click to expand...
If you're going to use paper towels, I would set the thermostat at 86ish. So if she goes under the towels as she most likely will, she'll be fine. The better fix would be to use aspen for substrate then she could borrow to the temp she wants.:)
 
dwyn127 said:
If you're going to use paper towels, I would set the thermostat at 86ish. So if she goes under the towels as she most likely will, she'll be fine. The better fix would be to use aspen for substrate then she could borrow to the temp she wants.:)
Click to expand...

Thanks. :)

She's on paper towels right now until after first feed, first evacuation, and to make sure she hasn't any mites. I have aspen stashed away for when all that is done.
 
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