Rack System intelligence needed

[marchettid]

I am building my rack system tomorrow. I plan on sliding the sterelite tubs in without lids. I am getting some 07s in the mail and am worried about them getting out the top, between the lip of the sterelite and the next shelf. Whats a safe distance, or should i just use the lids.

Doug

 

[susang]

No expert on rack systems but believe safe distance would be 0.0. Most corns are very good at escaping and can get through a very small opening. I had one get out a hole 1/8x1/4", this was when she was about 5 months old.

 

[hogboy]

If you build the rack with no gaps, a really snug fit, you shouldn't need lids.
No lids means easier maintainance but less security.
I have both and definately prefer lidless.

 

[jmksnakes]

Here is a thread I posted a couple of months ago... I'm using lids... I hope this really helps you. Let me know if you have any questions. And look further down the thread, I posted a few more pics.

http://cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=450403#post450403

 

[Roy Munson]

I like using the lids for racked tubs. It's an added level of security. You could leave a tub sticking 4" out of the rack, and a lidded tub will still be secure. No other household pets (cats especially) can "fish" a tub out a little and cause a disaster if you use lidded tubs.

 

[snakewispera snr]

A 0.0 gap is right , you need lids. Unless your a cabinet maker, then probably not :laugh:

 

[Jimmy Johnson]

build it upside down

Build it upside down to make it lidless.
Place your "top" board on floor and attach the sides.
Place a container on the "top" board, upside down.
Place the next board on top of this and attach it.
Place another container on top of this board, upside down.
place a board on top of this and attach it.
Work this way until you have all of your shelves attached.
Turn it over and you have your rack. The tubs will have a nice snug fit, will slide in and out and won't need lids.

 

[Duff]

Building upside down as described above is the way to go. Lidless makes everything so much easier, IMO.

 

[Pruddock]

I just built a lidless and I love it already. I cheated a little though because my friend and I built it and he IS a cabinet maker lol :roflmao:

 

[antsterr]

If you're going to put hatchlings in it, then don't leave a gap. It's better to drill little vent holes and have no airflow on top.
If you check out my rack design (in my sig) you'll se that it has a gap. I wouldn't put any snake less than 100g in there because the risk of escape is just to high. It was made with adults in mind. You don't need to build it with lids, you just need to make sure there is no gap to escape from.

 

[Jay@PJCReptiles]

I definitely agree that building upside down is the perfect way to build your rack, with or without lids. I build all of our racks this way but I choose to use the lids for the main reason of extra security. By building them this way you pretty much have a 99.9% escape proof bin (the other .1% is because if there is a way, a Cornsnake will find it). It also makes it easier/convenient if you want to pull a few snakes at a time for whatever reason (I.E. feeding, weighing, comparisons, pictures, etc.). You also have the option of using belly or back heat with them as well.
Jay

 

[pgr8dnlvr]

Hey just a little food for thought on the whole "lid / no lid" arguement. I have both and use both, but which I like better depends on the day you ask me.

I do have to say though, my partner, who has a number of snakes that rarely get handled if at all switched to underbed boxes / lidless system and has a bit of a problem, as soon as he slides the tub out a bit, a number of the snakes just shoot for the opening! lol! Sometimes they try to bite his face and other times they'll just try and do a superman out the tub! lol!

Of course most are not the corns, and he knows that he breaks one of my rules for the adults, and that is feeding in the tubs. I definitely think it makes a big difference if you handle them or not as well


Rebecca

 

[Emanon]

Lidless... on the little ones I use a small sterilite tub with a lid... I think it is the 12 qt is shorter than the 28 qt tubs so it will fit in the same rack with the lid on and the little buggers cannot get out.

 

[marchettid]

This past fall I built a rack. If I built another, I would change some things, but overall I like it alot. All 3/4 ply, and screws. No other parts, except the Heat!

Last winter I purchased a Spyder Robotics Temp controller (whats the correct term?) that allows you to set a temp., which is regulated using a thermometer probe. I got some 4in. flexwatt that I put vertically down the back. The width of the back wall is 4 ft., which is wide enough for small/med (Qt?) sterilites (holding 07's). There are 6 shelfs, so I distanced the two strips of flexwatt and ran them parallel to eachother, vertically down the back wall. This keeps approx. the back 1/3 of the back at higher temps, but to keep these high temps I have to set the spider near 100. I think I would like to instead zigzag some flexwatt , left (L) > right (R).. Down R side wall... R > L... down L side wall ... L > R... down R side wall... etc.... which would provide belly heat rather than heat that spreads off the back wall from back to front.

This belly heat system may be more efficient, but negatively> heard stories of spiking temp mishaps. If I stick with the back wall method I will purchase 11 in., and just one run strip right down the middle of the back wall.

Questions:
*** Any reactions to the back wall heat vs belly heat methods?
*** What size flex what would you get to provide corn snakes belly heat? 3in. or 4in.?
*** Ive seen automatic thermometers (electronic/digital) that give instant temperature readings. What brand/model would you suggest?

thanks for reading.