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Refused Food

Karoni

Cornaholic
Mango refused food for the first time since I've had him (2 years). Normally, he is an eager eater. He had just finished shedding about three days before. His temps are perfect, nothing has changed in his viv. Should I be worried? I will try again on the next feeding day. Could this possibly be an early breeding food strike? It's still winter here in Virginia. But a few months ago, I did move his cage right next to Sienna, who I think is a female. He's a rescue, so I don't know his age for sure, but I estimate 3.5 years. Thanks for any replies.
 
With his age, this could possibly be a breeding season food strike. I would not sweat it all right now.

How long until his next feeding day? If he refuses again, you can try something simple like braining, but honestly he probably just has the spring time jitters.
 
Thanks, Autumn. I usually feed every Sunday. Do you think that's too long to wait? He did miss a meal when he was blue.
 
My bet is breeding season hunger strike. Both Siri and Flynn have refused food for the past two feedings (Flynn's always been an early starter, but Siri surprised me since he didn't go off his feed at all last year). As Autumn says, most likely nothing to worry about.
 
Nah, not for an adult. Most adult males only eat every 14 days or so. He should be good to go. Being a bit hungry might also help.
 
Thanks everyone. I feel a bit dubious as to when he should be moved to a 14 day feeding schedule. I already have Sienna on that, but she's the biggest. Mango weighed 500g at Christmas. Do you think a 14 day feeding schedule would be more appropriate? He has no extra weight on him at all. Firefly is a male and weighed 470g.
 
I think you could try a 14 schedule and see how they do. My adults eat much better with spaced out schedule. Adult females eating every 10-12 days and males every 12-14 days. Females go to weekly feedings during breeding season.

They don't seem to need food as often, since most of the growing is done by this point. It's best to keep them at an ideal weight and not let them get too big. Weight gain can kind of sneak up on you. 300-350 grams is when I switch them over to "adult" schedules.
 
Thank you! One more question...According to Layne Labs, I am feeding them adult mice (20-29g), but the average weight of the mice is about 22g or so. Would you consider that an adult mouse? They seem a bit small to me.
 
For me, and this is just a personal thing, any mouse between 20-30 grams is normal adult.

25 grams-ish is pretty standard by most accounts. So 22 is not bad at all.
 
I think you could try a 14 schedule and see how they do. My adults eat much better with spaced out schedule. Adult females eating every 10-12 days and males every 12-14 days. Females go to weekly feedings during breeding season.

They don't seem to need food as often, since most of the growing is done by this point. It's best to keep them at an ideal weight and not let them get too big. Weight gain can kind of sneak up on you. 300-350 grams is when I switch them over to "adult" schedules.

Okay, this is probably a dumb question, but do your adult females who are not being bred also go to weekly feedings during breeding season? Like in case they produce a clutch of slugs or something? Or is it only for the ones who are actually going to be bred?
 
Okay, this is probably a dumb question, but do your adult females who are not being bred also go to weekly feedings during breeding season? Like in case they produce a clutch of slugs or something? Or is it only for the ones who are actually going to be bred?

I base it on each individual snake. If a female is not being bred, and not is not showing any signs of slugs, she stays on the 10-12 day schedule. Some females don't keep their weights up like others, so I push and pull it a bit to suit each snake. It takes a bit of work, but really worth it in the long run.
 
Mango refused again last night. Can someone tell me how to brain a mouse? Do I crush the skull or just slit it open (ewwww....) or does it matter?
 
To brain, you take the point of a knife and poke into the skull just a bit above the eyes. The goal is to see some fluid, but not open up the whole head.

He's still of the age where I would not sweat it too much. Wait around 3-4 days before you offer him food again. Double check temps and everything in viv, just in case.
 
My males that are 500 grams + are on a three week feeding schedule. I weigh each time to see if they are still gaining 5 grams or so each feeding. If Mango is on springtime hunger strike, he won't be losing much weight if any, and it will be virtually impossible to tempt him into eating, except with possibly a rat pink, but I would just offer him a mouse- maybe even a hopper, every two-three weeks until he starts feeding again. The feeding strike can last a few weeks to a couple months.
 
Thanks, ladies! I will try braining a mouse next time. If that doesn't work, I just do what you said Nanci and try again every other week until he's ready to eat again. I'll weigh him occasionally, too, to make sure he isn't losing weight.

This is my first springtime feeding strike and it's a bit unnerving. But his temps are perfect and his viv looks good. He's very active, which to be expected I guess.
 
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