Hope she don't mind but I copy what I received from Kathy Love when I got one that regurge. Follow this exactly and you will have good chance of keeping your snake. Also be sure that the temperature is ok.
*Subject:* regurge treatment
THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT - once a snake has regurged, especially twice
or more, it is more likely to keep on regurging until it dies,
unless something is changed about its care and feeding. It is very
important NOT to let this continue. PLEASE FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS
BELOW VERY CAREFULLY. This is from my FAQ on regurges:
I suspect your problem is probably not bad mice, but about handling
too soon, feeding too soon or too large of a meal, a stomach "bug",
or improper temps. If you make these mistakes once, or even twice,
it is not usually a problem if you FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS EXACTLY.
But remember, each time it regurges, the stomach acids are depleted,
and the whole electrolyte balance is thrown off more and more each
time, and it makes it MORE likely that it will continue to throw up
until it dies. (those consequences are just my opinions - I do not
know if science backs up my conclusions, but my experience certainly
does!) That is why it is so important to NOT ALLOW another regurge.
The next month or two is crucial. DO NOT feed it for AT LEAST 8
days since the last regurge. NOT ANYTHING AT ALL! Then get a
newborn frozen pinky and cut it in half (or cut off just the head)
If she eats it, leave her alone for a whole week. (no handling).
Repeat the partial pinkie feeding the following week. Then feed a
whole newborn pinkie a week after that, if there has been no
regurge. Leave alone for a whole week. If she regurges, wait a
week and repeat 1/2 pinkie. If she keeps it down, wait a week and
repeat whole pinkie. If she holds down a couple of meals, DO NOT
rush back into larger meals and more handling. Treat this
seriously. Go very slowly. After 3 successful meals, go to a
newborn pink every 5 days. Go back to normal feedings only after 6
successful meals. Always wait to handle until after 3 or 4 days,
but only AFTER 6 successful meals. No handling until then (causes
stress, need to keep stress down). And NEVER feed again right after
a regurge - ALWAYS wait AT LEAST 7 or 8 days, maybe even up to 10
days, and then only feed something that was about 1/2 the size (or
less) of what she regurged..
Also, be sure that temps are not too warm or cool. Try to give an
area of low to mid 80s on one side and 70s on the other. Too hot or
cold will cause regurges.
Grapefruit seed extract can sometimes help if the snake has some
sort of "stomach bug" (any microbial problem) as it is a natural
remedy that is good against many kinds of pathogens, but not as
strong as an antibiotic prescribed by a doctor. This product has
been used in agriculture for many years and seems to be very safe,
as long as you dilute it with enough water that the acidity does not
burn the tissues. A vet has told me he feels that it may somewhat
alter the pH of the animal and thus change the way medicines are
absorbed. So if you use this product and then take the snake to a
vet, mention the treatment so it can be taken into account if the
vet decides to change the prescription because of it. It is best to
mix it in a glass and taste it to make sure it is not so bitter that
the snake refuses to drink it. I have used it on myself and so has
my husband. I find it works better on stomach problems than for
other symptoms (such as respiratory - I didn't have any luck
treating colds or other respiratory problems).You can buy it at a
local health food store or online. Please refer to the
following website for more background info:
http://www.nutriteam.com/index2.html
I have also had success with a probiotic called Nutri Bac, a fine
powder containing seven different microflora that should be
inhabiting the gut of reptiles, but may be absent due to stress,
disease, antibiotic treatments, etc. Using the powder as a
supplement will sometimes allow the reptile to get back the natural
balance of microbes in its digestive tract, and then its own immune
system can take over. See my website for more details.
The number of days and amounts of food, etc, suggested above are not
set in stone. Other people may have success with slightly different
formulas, but this is what I found works for me and many of my
customers. If this protocol does not work when carefully followed,
it is likely that the snake has some severe problems. Your only
hope is a QUALIFIED herp vet, who may or may not be able to save
your pet.
Please follow my care sheet for the first month or so when starting
with new acquisitions (posted on my website for the first month's
care of new corns).. The first month is crucial in getting the baby
established. It is worth a little extra "coddling" for the first
month in order to have a trouble free pet for the next 10 or 15
years or more.
CONTACT INFO:
CORNUTOPIA / Kathy Love
http://www.CornUtopia.com
Hope this will help you. Good luck!