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Reptile Basics rack

C

cjbage

New member
I was looking into a rack system for housing my snakes, the two juvies that I have at the moment along with any others that I would be getting in a few months, they would most likely be hatchlings. Until they get big enough for their permanent AP cages.

I like that these come with heat and tubs and are together but I have a question on them. Hopefully someone here can answer, as when I clicked on their rack faq it came up as not being available.

As I don't want to have to buy, unless it is absolutely necessary, both a hatchling/juvie rack and a sweater box style rack, is it feasible to keep them just in the larger one? Or would escapes be more likely? Is there a down side to housing smaller snakes in larger tubs, other then the fact of them having more places to bury themselves which leaves me open to panic attacks over possible escapes.
 
My hatchling racks are Reptile Basics. They are VERY easy for hatchling corns to escape from, but this is easily fixed. You can either put cardboard shims under the bins, so they are very tight, or use rubber shelf liner held down with aluminum tape (the thick kind) for a more permanent solution. It usually takes two layers of shelf liner. I tape the back, sides, and completely over the front lip of the shelf. If you go with cardboard, pizza boxes are usually the right thickness.
 
Thank you very much for the information :) glad I asked before buying then putting the babies in right away.
 
That's what happened to me. The guy assured me that it was escape-proof. My first hatchling from my first clutch ever escaped!! And was quickly recovered, but I think that took ten years off my life...
 
I can't speak to their hatchling racks, but I switched all of my racks over to their 32qt model from AP racks a couple of years ago and have been more than pleased. Quality is several notches above AP. I used to make my own racks, but materials had gotten so expensive that commercial ones ended up being worth my time. Reptile Basics are the best ones I've found.

As for hatchling racks - I would just make one. They're so easy to make using zip-loc tubs, etc. The advantage with this size is that materials are dirt cheap since you don't have to use massive sheets, you can just use boards. I still make my own hatchling racks.

Here's 3 that I made for $260 for all 3 including heat (~$4 a tub). I use them for BP hatchlings and jeuvenile corns, but with adequate hides a hatchling corn would do just fine.

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oh nice, yeah I would but I have nothing but a hammer here, oh and one of those adjustable wrench things. I am not a handy type of person in all actuality.

At most I would have no more then 2-4 hatchlings at a time. As long as I can actually stick to my buying schedule and stop looking at those gallery pics that keep popping up.

Was thinking after looking in more places for something that would work for 15q/32q. Interchangeable? The hatchings I could keep on the small metal three shelf rack I have rigged up in the quarantine area.

But if I could build something like that I would those look great ... it would give me an excuse to fill it up.
 
I've been very happy with RB racks of all sizes. I will echo Nanci's thoughts about them not being escape proof out of the box. That isn't exclusive to that brand, though. I've had babies escape (or start to) out of a number of commercial enclosures that are supposed to be "escape proof."
 
cjbage said:
oh nice, yeah I would but I have nothing but a hammer here, oh and one of those adjustable wrench things. I am not a handy type of person in all actuality.

At most I would have no more then 2-4 hatchlings at a time. As long as I can actually stick to my buying schedule and stop looking at those gallery pics that keep popping up.

Was thinking after looking in more places for something that would work for 15q/32q. Interchangeable? The hatchings I could keep on the small metal three shelf rack I have rigged up in the quarantine area.

But if I could build something like that I would those look great ... it would give me an excuse to fill it up.
Click to expand...

If it's only a couple of hatchlings at a time I wouldn't even bother with a rack. I'd just use ziploc containers or similar, run some flexwatt along a shelf, and just place them on the flexwatt and use that. So I guess it would technically be a rack, but just use an empty shelf on a bookcase.

Going back to the RBI racks, the nice thing with them is you can get a divider for the 32qt tubs. So just a single tub, that can be used for 2 sizes. Easier than having to have two sets of tubs for a single rack IMO. http://www.reptilebasics.com/rack-systems-for-mid-sized-snakes/mcb-l-tub-divider/

I use these with great success.
 
Great rack Blue Apple Herps!

Here's what I do for escape proof hatchling racks. Its almost the same as B.A.H.'s. I also use back heat with Flexwatt. I use clear shoe box size tubs also but keep the lids on. This way I can stack them 3 high on a shelf. simplifies the build and hatchlings cannot escape. I keep extra tubs to swap out with the dirty ones. Even with paper towel in each I find that the tub must be cleaned every feeding day so I find no advantage to have lidless with hatchlings. I just take the 3 stack off the shelf and feed and clean or swap the tub out then move on to the next 3 stack. You can buy a premade shelving unit that has a back to tape the flexwatt too and adjust the shelves so the 3 stack fits snuggly. 11 inch Flexwatt running horizontally is perfect for 3 shoe box tubs stacked on each shelf. You can make a rack for 6 or 60 easily this way. The key for simplicity is using back heat!!
 
Nanci and Chip,

Now that this thread was brought up I am considering getting a Reptile Basic rack! Really not too bad of a price considering all it comes with..

Would you guys recommend back or belly heat? In the past I've gone with belly heat for racks, but if a piece of cardboard is required would this block off the heat or end up being a fire hazard for belly heat?

To the OP,

In the past I've put hatchlings in small tuper wear tubs with lids firmly in place. I lined them up along the back of the rack were they would get enough of a heat gradient. I was working with an extra slot on my rack and belly heat though.
 
Jessicat said:
To the OP,

In the past I've put hatchlings in small tuper wear tubs with lids firmly in place. I lined them up along the back of the rack were they would get enough of a heat gradient. I was working with an extra slot on my rack and belly heat though.
Click to expand...


I was considering this and going for a Juvi/adult rack and just using one of the shelves. Right now I have a thin flexwatt strip laid out in the quarantine area on a flat surface with a herpstat therm on it. Hopefully that will work for the new babies coming in soon.
 
Jessicat said:
Nanci and Chip,

Now that this thread was brought up I am considering getting a Reptile Basic rack! Really not too bad of a price considering all it comes with..

Would you guys recommend back or belly heat? In the past I've gone with belly heat for racks, but if a piece of cardboard is required would this block off the heat or end up being a fire hazard for belly heat?
Click to expand...


My hatchling racks, the Iris racks, have back heat and it's okay. My Animal Plastics adult racks have belly heat, though, and I will occasionally use cardboard for a single bin, like when I'm leaving hatching eggs in a hatching bin when the eggs hatch when I'm on vacation or if I move a smaller juvenile into an adult bin...If the rack has a thermostat, it isn't going to start cardboard on fire, and I'm not sure cardboard would start on fire even at 150 degrees if you had a thermostat failure. Well actually, if I'm gone for more than overnight, I plan feedings accordingly so I can turn the rack heat off.
 
If you don't have a lot of snakes and want to grow into a rack eventually I'd use stackable tubs with locking lids and heat tape. Grow as you go until you need a rack and the tubs you bought along the way are always useful. It's quite easy to add ventilation with just a soldering iron. Heat and poke a few dozen holes in a large tub. Holds temperature and humidity great and escape is a lot less likely. Just an idea for you.
 
hay all, I have an odd question. how much weight can a reptile basics rack support? I had a stand break in transit during a move. and was wondering if I can set a 2ft wide x 2ft deep x 1ft tall tank on top of my 3 shelf rack until I can get the leg on the stand fixed.
 
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