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Respiratory Infection.....new member

Markey

New member
Hi everyone! I'm brand new to the site. A good friend from Canada (Matt) referred me to your site. I hope that I'm posting at the right place.

I've had my corn snake Markey (well, she's my son's really) for three years now I believe. Originally we had her in a twenty gallon long aquarium. She thrived there. I had almost no issues with her. She is a joy of a snake to have, very friendly and calm when you take her out.

In August we built a new room for our son in the basement. We also purchased a 260 gallon tall Reptarium mesh cage. I put tons of vines climbing bark for Markey to roam around on. When I inquired about heating, I was told from the breeder that a uth would be sufficient for Markey and that people get carried away with lighting. My brain told me otherwise but I listened. After a few days we added one light.
Markey did great through the summer months. She was always hanging out on the vines and roaming the cage.
About a month ago, she had her first bad shed. She wasn't even due to shed so I was surprised when my son told me she shed in chunks. I immediately went to her and found that her left eye cap was still in tact. I gently removed it as the eye area was extremely moist (I know, I learned my lesson....use artificial tears on it until it comes off on it's own as to not cause corneal damage). I was so afraid that I just took action....again, dumb on my part. Her eye is fine as I had her checked over by a vet on Monday.
Anyway, after that bad shed, Markey stopped eating. She eats two large mice during the warmer months and goes down to one mouse in the cooler months so I wasn't too concerned the first few times she refused food. I noticed she didn't poop either. That was a concern. Before long, I realized that Markey had been injured by some plants that were in the tank that were not "snake friendly". I immediately removed them and called the vet to have her checked over. I figured with the not eating, not pooping, small injury, etc.....it was time to take her in. When I went to get her out of the tank, I noticed she had water coming out of her right nostril. I panicked. I knew that was a bad sign. She then had a few bubbles of fluid coming out of both nostrils and I booked b*** to the vet! It was a scary trip....
The vet said she looks amazing. She could not believe how well mannered Markey was, how pretty her markings were, etc....both her and the vet tech made me feel good about our little girl......until they told me that my temps were way too low and that the substrate I was using was bad. I have always used Repti Bark and have had no issues so I'm still unsure about that remark. The vet said that the repti bark harbors bacteria and that unless I'm doing a complete change each week, it needs to go. She also said that Markey might have a slight upper respiratory infection but that she couldn't hear a thing in her lungs so it was not pneumonia. Thank goodness! They said that I caught it very early and that most people don't notice or wait too long and then it's bad. That made me feel somewhat good.
Markey was sent home with antibiotics that I have to give her once a day for twelve days (boys is that fun.....NOT!). I immediately went out and picked up more lights.
I'm currently running 2 - 150 watt bulbs on top of the mesh tank (not touching mesh of course) and one 100 watt red night bulb through the night. The warmest part of the tank goes to 80 degrees but Markey doesn't have access to it. She has access to the middle section that stays around 76 degrees but she doesn't go up there now that she is sick. She really prefers the cool side on the main level of the cage which stays at a constant 69-70 degrees during the daytime. The warm side on the main level stays at 79 degrees during the daytime hours and goes up to 82 degrees at night when the night light is on. I could not test the cool side with the night light because I had to go to bed but I will do that tonight.
I'm picking up one more light tomorrow as I realize the temps are not quite warm enough but my question is, "Is it bad that Markey continues to remain on the cooler side of the tank for most of the day while she has this respiratory infection?"
If it is a bad thing, "Should I move her back to her 20 gallon tank and keep the temps warmer until she gets better?" I'm just at a loss here.... I can certainly increase the temps in her 260 gallon set up but I cannot force her to go where those temps are.....
I'm also soaking her once a day to get her to go poop and it's not working. The vet said she felt stool in her belly so she knows it needs to come out. Markey is the type that will not eat if she hasn't pooped so I asked the vet if I should increase her soaks to twice a day and she said that was fine. I have to give her two more weeks of soaking and then get xrays done if she hasn't had a bm.
Matt referred me to this site and felt like I really needed to get your advice on the temps and Markey's RI. Sooooooo if any of you made it to the end of this long thread, I thank you and ask if you could please help me. I really want to do right by Markey. She is my son's snake but I love her dearly. I do all of her care and I just adore her so much. I want her to get better.
Thanks!!
Lisa
 
First...you did a great job of catching your snake's illness early and by taking Markey to the vet ASAP. I highly recommend that you put Markey back in the 20 gallon tank...permanently. A mesh viv that size, in a basement (even a re-done basement), will never be able to be kept at the right temps and humidity for a cornsnake. You may be able to get the temps up close to where they should be, but you'll be lowering the humidity too much to get there.

For a respiratory infection, Markey should be kept at slightly higher temps than normal...around 85 - 87 F with a minimal decrease at the cool end (maybe low 80's) until back to full health. This will best be done back in the 20 gallon tank. Warm soaks will probably help with the poop situation. And since Markey is an adult snake, plus it's brumation time, the missed meals shouldn't be of much of a concern right now...as long as Markey is still active, recovers from the RI and isn't losing much weight.
 
Hi, Susan. Thanks for replying. My son's new room stays at a constant 72 degrees as we use baseboard heating in his room.
As for the humidity, you say I'd be lowering it too much by increasing the heat. What is the best humidity for corns? I thought they only really needed humidity during the shed cycle.
My humidity on the main level was registering really well in the mesh cage.
 
One other thing.....if I move her back to the 20 gallon long while she recovers from the infection, how do I keep the temps at 87 at night? I'm not sure running the night light that is 100 watts plus her heat mat would do the trick. You aren't supposed to run the daylight (white) bulbs 24/7 on a corn.......
 
Depending upon who you talk to, the humidity level for a happy corn is in the mid-range to moderately high...I would say 50 - 75% (being native to the southeastern US, they require a humidity level to match...and it gets dang humid here!). The bad shed was a good indication that the humidity level was too dry for your snake. The thermostat for your UTH should be able to keep the temps close to 87 F without the use of any lights. The temp ranges you listed for the mesh cage shows temps that are too low for a healthy cornsnake. The lows should be in the mid-70's and the highs in the mid-80's...24/7, with a minor drop at night allowed. Your corn is staying on the cooler bottom because it doesn't feel well enough to climb to the warmer middle...and it shouldn't have to. Cornsnakes are not baskers...they get their warmth from below. The main heat source...and warmest place should be the bottom of the cage, preferably with a nice hide to go with it.
 
i agree that a mesh viv isnt always the best choice for corns. sure they will climb if given the opportunity but belly heat is always best for them.

susan pretty much summed everything up, a bad shed is almost 90% the effect of low humidity levels. although, i do have a snake or two in my rack who shed in a few pieces on a regular basis even when the rack is kept the same temp/humidity for all the snakes. temporarily increasing temps by about 5 degrees on the warm and cool side alike will aid your snake in recovering from any and almost all health issues that may occur.

good luck and keep us updated! :)
 
also, all my snakes are kept at 75 / 82 during the day and 70 / 78 at night with 60-65% humidity (upped to about 70-75% with twice daily misting when blue til shed). everyone has their own opinions when it comes to temps and humidity levels, though this is what i have found best.
 
Until recently, I had no feeding issues or shed issues with Markey.....not ever. I read when a snake is injured it can go into an immediate shed to help protect the skin and I know that is what happened with Markey. Believe me when I tell you that although it seems like I'm a poor snake owner, I've always been so good about knowing when Markey is ready to eat, ready to explore, ready to shed, etc...this particular shed came out of nowhere and that's why I think it's related to her scraping her scales on her belly. I always mist her tank as soon as I see her skin going pale and she always sheds in one long full piece....even in the 260 gallon set up.

Markey does have belly heat...she has a uth. I checked the temp on that side yesterday afternoon and it stayed at a constant 79 degrees outside of her hide. It was obviously warmer inside the hide because the hide is placed directly on top of the uth.
Should I add another uth on the warm side? I had a custom piece of glass built for that setup and could easily add another uth to it? Would I leave that spot open or put another hide on top? I'm just thinking she would then have a choice...hide on warm side, open on warm side.....

The Repti bark holds moisture extremely well as does the moss I use. I truly have had no issues with bad sheds until this one time.

Without the misting (no misting at all), her humidity levels stay at 41% on the bottom and increase as you go up.....going down to 25% on the third level. One area in the middle level goes up to 52% humidity but I think it's because I have moss up there on that area.
I will mist today and record humidity again.....just to see where I'm at with it.

I'm taking Markey out of that enclosure and putting her into the 20 gallon set up for a few weeks. I spent the night disinfecting and getting it ready for her so she'll be set today.
I've always used repti bark because it holds moisture well but since she is sick, I will leave her on plain paper and change it out frequently.

As for the constipation, the vet she saw on Monday said that she feels it inside of her and that I should soak her. I called her back yesterday and she said that I can increase her soaks to twice per day until she has a stool but that if she doesn't go in two weeks I should have an xray done.

I'm brand new here and you have to realize that I do care about Markey. I did take her to the vet asap and am truly trying to follow what the vet said. She is the one who told me to keep her in 78-80 degree temps......I am of course moving her to warmer temps today but please understand that when I pay to go to someone that is supposed to know what she's talking about, I'm really only trying to do my best.......I am so upset right now.
 
Thanks to everyone who has replied to this thread. I moved Markey to the 20 gallon set up. She stayed on the warm side which registered at 87-88 degrees from 8-9. Her front half was outside of the hide and she had her head resting on the hide directly below the overhead light. I did have the uth running as well.
When I registered the temp on the floor on the warm side, it came in at 83 degrees resting on top of two pieces of paper toweling.
At 9 AM Markey moved herself out of the hide on the warm side and just sat with half of her body on the warm side and half of it on the cool side.
By 10:30 she had burrowed under the paper toweling on the cool side and she never moved from that spot until we had to soak her. I"m currently trying to feed her a smaller mouse since she hasn't eaten in four weeks. If she doesn't take it, I will wait another four or five days I guess.

Also, I checked the temps on top of my uth (with a layer of substrate covering it) and it reached 88 degrees. Markey has always preferred the cooler side of the cages she has resided in just as she is doing today in the 20 gallon set up. I cannot force her to remain on the warm side so I really don't know what else to do........
 
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