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road to recovery

A

AlexEarl

New member
last night my snake regurgitated and I have no idea why. I found a half digested fuzzy in his tank last night. this is the second time I have fed him a fuzzy and the first time, it took around 4 days for the bump to digest in his belly. but this time the fuzzy came out 2 days after he had eaten.

i was wondering why this had happened as the snake smaller then him digests the fuzzys fine and kept his 2nd one down.

but anyway, on the road to recovery is it right that i should wait a week till i try feed him again and i should give him a smaller prey item. so would 2 slit up pinkys be fine for the first feed or shall i do 1?

thanks
 
I too have this problem with my oldest corn. She has regurged three fuzzies and I've concluded that she cannot digest bones. After each regurge I've waited 10 days and feed her one pink, waited another week and feed her one more pink, after the third weekly pink I doubled up to two pinks per week. In the past I spaced the feedings every five days, but now I keep her at every seven days. I am considering feeding her three pinks a week to build up her body mass.
 
First thing is to find the "Regurge Protocol" - believe it's stickied at the top of the Feeding section. This contains full instructions on how to deal with a regurge, involving leaving the next feed for ten days then feeding a smaller item for a while.

Next, I'd check your temperature on the floor at the warm end. Too hot or too cool and they won't be able to digest.

Corns are very individual, so it's not a surprise when one can handle fuzzies whilst another has trouble.
 
There could be plenty of reasons. What is your snake's set up like? How many hides do you have, what are the temperatures, do you house your snakes together?

Stress, too large of an item, handling too soon, cohabing, can all lead to a regurge. Check your husbandry and make sure it's spot on. Wait about a week so that the snake's stomach acids have a chance to rejuvenate.

When you do offer a food item, offer something smaller, and coat it with NutriBac.

Good luck.
 
well the first time he had a fuzzy he stayed in the cool side for the whole time and the lump was not digesting, so i moved his coconut hide nearer to the heat matt and he successfully digested it.

before the next feed i made him a hide out of an egg box for the warm side and he is now freely moving back and forth. although the temperature has greatly dropped here in britain as well of most of europe if some of you arnt aware. maybe that had something to do with the regurge but guess i can never be sure.

bitsy, i know a smaller prey item is meant to be offered, but im unsure on how small i should go, should i give him 1 pinky or 2 pinkys instead of a fuzzy (p.s. this is the first time he has ever regurged in my care so im guessing the temperature drop may have something to do with it)

thanks
 
As you're trying fuzzies, I'd make his next feed one pinky, then two the next if that goes OK. I tend to be a bit conservative with advice, but slowly building back up seems safer than rushing back to the usual food. If he's healthy and had eaten OK up to the regurge, then slightly reduced feeding for a while won't do harm.

Ideally, you need as many hides and ground cover in the tank as possible, so he can move around the temperature zones whilst feeling that he's out of sight (even if he isn't necessarily!).

If you have a thermostat, hopefully the temp change shouldn't be significant for them as the floor at the warm end will be kept stable. If you're worried about fluctuations or you just a dimmer switch/rheostat, you'll need to keep monitoring warm and cool end temps to ensure they stay inside the safe range.
 
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