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Sealing/proofing petrified wood - Minwax Polycrylic protective finish?

Phruit Dish

Phruit Dish

Bringer of Meeses
I recently brought home some really lovely petrified wood specimens for use in a 20 long. They have all been scrubbed OCD-style with a stiff brush and dish soap, then rinsed long past the water running clean. In lieu of boiling, I've been considering sealing them with water-based poly. Why? Because when dry, they're dreadfully boring to look at, but when wet they have amazing attributes; additionally, I want them to be easy to clean. I have a small can of polyacrylic and some foam brushes ready for the task, and have gone ahead with a small sample to see how 3 coats would look. It seems like a good option, but I haven't done anything like this before and am concerned that I might be overlooking something important.

Bottom line: is this an acceptable treatment for petrified wood to be used in a viv? If not, how can I safely bring out the colors I see when the specimens are wet? If I'm missing a step or several steps, can you clue me in to that as well?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice you can offer. Your input is appreciated!
 
Phruit Dish said:
Bottom line: is this an acceptable treatment for petrified wood to be used in a viv? If not, how can I safely bring out the colors I see when the specimens are wet? If I'm missing a step or several steps, can you clue me in to that as well?

Thanks in advance for any and all advice you can offer. Your input is appreciated!
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I don't know about petrified wood but I have work with both water base and non water base polys and it seems the non water base produces better results in bring out the look/color of the wood.
Both are safe for the snakes. just make sure every thing is dry and the flumes/ smell is gone before install it in the viv.
 
To clarify.... I prefer polyurethane over polycrylic and the use of a China Bristle Brush over a foam one for finish work.
 
I wasn't aware that the oil-based poly was safe. Thanks for the tip!

Would you tell me more about the difference between polyurethane and polycrylic and finishing with a China bristle brush? I was using foam for ease and uniformity of application, but I hear that for some purposes, brushes produce a more attractive final result.
 
Phruit Dish said:
I wasn't aware that the oil-based poly was safe. Thanks for the tip!

Would you tell me more about the difference between polyurethane and polycrylic and finishing with a China bristle brush? I was using foam for ease and uniformity of application, but I hear that for some purposes, brushes produce a more attractive final result.
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In my opinion, all finishes ( poly whatever, paint etc shellac )are safe as long as they are dry and no flumes. An oil base can be build up to have a glass like finish which give a look of depth more than water base finishes. I use a product called Deft which works well for "furniture" finish and with four or so coats has a glass like coat but the flumes are bad and takes a while to dry. My point, you have to experment.
As far as the brush if you use a oil base finish you might want to buy a disposable china bristle brush or lacquer thinner for cleaning. (Nail polish remover)
 
Don't overlook good old carnauba wax, or a blend with carnauba wax. Look around for concrete countertop sealers too - basically a non-toxic way to bring out the beauty in rocks.
 
My go to for sealing wood in a reptile enclose is Minwax Marine Varnish, or Spar Urethane. Both are oil based and very noxious while wet, but dry safely and are the most water resistant I have found. I see no reason they would not work on wood other than the dry time might be considerably longer.
 
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