I just got my first snake today :bird:, and after some pondering, and a question answered by the very nice chatroom folk, I've decided my snake is in blue. Question being, if she is in blue, will she not want to eat in 3 days when I am supposed to feed her for the first time, and will that cause any troubles if she doesnt eat for however long cause she is shedding? And if she refuses in 3 days, should I try again the next day, and the next, or wait until she sheds to try again? Thanks!
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Snake arrived in blue
- Thread starter Mugyver
- Start date
RobbiesCornField
Bring it on.
If she refuses, wait until she sheds, and then try again.
The recommended rule of thumb for refused feedings is attempt every 4 days. That way, you're not stressing them out by offering it too much.
The recommended rule of thumb for refused feedings is attempt every 4 days. That way, you're not stressing them out by offering it too much.
diamondlil
Mice! They taste so nice!
I'm with Nanci on this one. If the snake's been through the stress of shipping and adjusting to a new environment, let it settle and shed before you even think of feeding it.
Less you think I am just running around with my snake haphazardly, shoving pinkies in its face, I got the 3 day info from Cathy Love's care sheet, which recommends that you feed it in 3 days, as well as several other care sheets I've read. But I haven't done anything to her yet, aside from spritzing her cage for a little humidity twice a day, so if you guys think I should leave her alone for a week, I will. I just don't know when she was fed before I got her, and wouldn't want her to go for too long. Thanks for the replies!
nrfitchett4
New member
my snake ate the second day home. It was the normal feeding schedule from the pet shop. She ate no problem. Mine also ate while blue last friday. While it was a little sad seeing her have trouble striking the pinkie, but she got it down no problem.
I would follow Kathy Love's guidelines. She has been doing this forever. Offer a pinkie after 3 days, if it doesn't seem interested, offer another a few days later. Chances are it will eat.
I would follow Kathy Love's guidelines. She has been doing this forever. Offer a pinkie after 3 days, if it doesn't seem interested, offer another a few days later. Chances are it will eat.
Yeah, not to put down anyone else's advice, I think I am gonna go with Cathy. She is pretty unanimously respected on here, and my snake is pretty calmed down. Hardly even moves when I lift my shirt up to check on her. (I put a worn shirt in there to get her used to my scent, and so far her favorite place is in the folds.) And I've read to feed after 3 days numerous times, but this is the first time I've heard to wait a whole week, like Nanci suggested. Thanks for the help!
Nanci
Alien Lover
Courtesy of Sean Niland, VMS Herp
http://www.vmsherp.com/LCAcclimation.htm
General Acclimation
You've just received your shipment, opened the box and there's your new friend staring up at you from the inside of deli cup. Now what?
Glad you asked, because what happened to your pet during transit was pretty frightening. What happens next can be even more traumatic, depending on how you acclimate your new pet. Please take a few moments to read the following paragraphs, hopefully before you receive your shipment, so that you know what to do to minimize further stress on your new reptile.
There's a few simple rules to follow which can really ease the transition from their old home here at VMS (the only home they ever knew) to the new home somewhere else in the United States.
First, resists the temptation to tear into the box and dig out your new pet. I know this is hard, but please take just a moment to collect one critical piece of information - the temperature inside the box upon arrival. Just quietly crack the lid and slip a thermometer inside. This information can be very helpful if you should need to contact us later regarding difficulties in getting your pet to settle in.
Second, resist the urge to handle your new pet for a few days. VMS is a commercial breeding facility, housing many hundreds of baby reptiles at any given time. As a result, they rarely get handled other than for routine maintenance and cage cleaning. Your new pet may view being handled as yet another stressful event following the trauma of being packaged up and shipped across the US, ending up in some strange new place. Give them time to settle in and start feeding before attempting to handle them. When you do decide handle them, do it inside the cage if possible or at least on the floor. Odds are high they will be nervous and easily startled - jumping out of your hand for a five foot plunge to the floor can be fatal! Handle only for a few minutes at first, increasing the time spent handling each day until your new pet no longer minds at all.
Third, resist the urge to unceremoniously dump your new pet into his new spacious cage. This can be another real shocker to them. Instead, set the deli cup inside the cage and gently pry off the lid. Turn out the lights on the cage (or even the room if very bright) and quietly withdraw, allowing the reptile to venture out and explore the new surroundings at will. This increases the chances of successfully locating the hide area and water dish, etc. without panicking.
Fourth, don't even think about feeding your new pet immediately. Sadly, this is the first thing most newcomers to reptile keeping try to do. Odds are very high that your new lizard or snakes will be too frightened to feed. Attempting to feed under these conditions can have several consequences:
Uneaten live rodents and crickets may actually turn to your new pet as a food source, gnawing on exposed areas of your new pet! Too frightened to come out of hiding, your new reptile may receive some serious damage.
Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.
Lizards seem to get over it all a little quicker than snakes, especially very young geckos. Waiting two days is usually sufficient. Even then, feed sparingly! A couple crickets is plenty to tempt your new pet, and you can always add a few more if you see them get eaten. But two dozen crickets running about can be a bit frightening to an already nervous little lizard! Remember, less is better.
Larger geckos may require longer periods to adjust, with some adults refusing to feed well for several weeks! Some keepers report success tempting such stubborn with wax worms, which seem to have an irresistible wiggle when they crawl. But most will simply resume feeding one day as if nothing had ever happened.
Also, avoid handling your new reptile before attempting to feed. It's more important that it resume a regular feeding schedule than anything else.
Most of the reptiles we sell are nocturnal and feed best in low light conditions. It's best to offer food in the evening or early morning hours, before bright lights and a lot of household activity disturb your pet.
Feed very sparingly the first few weeks after arrival. Feed snakes smaller meals than normal and give lizards fewer crickets than normal. The stresses of shipping can often upset their digestive systems, and large meals may be regurgitated, causing additional problems.
It is of prime importance that your new pet be allowed to settle in and acclimate fully. Constant stress during the acclimation period should be avoided. With proper care and conditions, you should have your new pet for years to come. There will be lots of time to mess with them later - for now, give them a rest!
http://www.vmsherp.com/LCAcclimation.htm
General Acclimation
You've just received your shipment, opened the box and there's your new friend staring up at you from the inside of deli cup. Now what?
Glad you asked, because what happened to your pet during transit was pretty frightening. What happens next can be even more traumatic, depending on how you acclimate your new pet. Please take a few moments to read the following paragraphs, hopefully before you receive your shipment, so that you know what to do to minimize further stress on your new reptile.
There's a few simple rules to follow which can really ease the transition from their old home here at VMS (the only home they ever knew) to the new home somewhere else in the United States.
First, resists the temptation to tear into the box and dig out your new pet. I know this is hard, but please take just a moment to collect one critical piece of information - the temperature inside the box upon arrival. Just quietly crack the lid and slip a thermometer inside. This information can be very helpful if you should need to contact us later regarding difficulties in getting your pet to settle in.
Second, resist the urge to handle your new pet for a few days. VMS is a commercial breeding facility, housing many hundreds of baby reptiles at any given time. As a result, they rarely get handled other than for routine maintenance and cage cleaning. Your new pet may view being handled as yet another stressful event following the trauma of being packaged up and shipped across the US, ending up in some strange new place. Give them time to settle in and start feeding before attempting to handle them. When you do decide handle them, do it inside the cage if possible or at least on the floor. Odds are high they will be nervous and easily startled - jumping out of your hand for a five foot plunge to the floor can be fatal! Handle only for a few minutes at first, increasing the time spent handling each day until your new pet no longer minds at all.
Third, resist the urge to unceremoniously dump your new pet into his new spacious cage. This can be another real shocker to them. Instead, set the deli cup inside the cage and gently pry off the lid. Turn out the lights on the cage (or even the room if very bright) and quietly withdraw, allowing the reptile to venture out and explore the new surroundings at will. This increases the chances of successfully locating the hide area and water dish, etc. without panicking.
Fourth, don't even think about feeding your new pet immediately. Sadly, this is the first thing most newcomers to reptile keeping try to do. Odds are very high that your new lizard or snakes will be too frightened to feed. Attempting to feed under these conditions can have several consequences:
Uneaten live rodents and crickets may actually turn to your new pet as a food source, gnawing on exposed areas of your new pet! Too frightened to come out of hiding, your new reptile may receive some serious damage.
Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.
Lizards seem to get over it all a little quicker than snakes, especially very young geckos. Waiting two days is usually sufficient. Even then, feed sparingly! A couple crickets is plenty to tempt your new pet, and you can always add a few more if you see them get eaten. But two dozen crickets running about can be a bit frightening to an already nervous little lizard! Remember, less is better.
Larger geckos may require longer periods to adjust, with some adults refusing to feed well for several weeks! Some keepers report success tempting such stubborn with wax worms, which seem to have an irresistible wiggle when they crawl. But most will simply resume feeding one day as if nothing had ever happened.
Also, avoid handling your new reptile before attempting to feed. It's more important that it resume a regular feeding schedule than anything else.
Most of the reptiles we sell are nocturnal and feed best in low light conditions. It's best to offer food in the evening or early morning hours, before bright lights and a lot of household activity disturb your pet.
Feed very sparingly the first few weeks after arrival. Feed snakes smaller meals than normal and give lizards fewer crickets than normal. The stresses of shipping can often upset their digestive systems, and large meals may be regurgitated, causing additional problems.
It is of prime importance that your new pet be allowed to settle in and acclimate fully. Constant stress during the acclimation period should be avoided. With proper care and conditions, you should have your new pet for years to come. There will be lots of time to mess with them later - for now, give them a rest!
nrfitchett4
New member
Most "experts" recommend feeding a baby corn every 3-5 days. Why starve them right out of the gate? Esp. if they came from a pet store and probably weren't getting enough to eat already?
Nanci
Alien Lover
Fourth, don't even think about feeding your new pet immediately. Sadly, this is the first thing most newcomers to reptile keeping try to do. Odds are very high that your new lizard or snakes will be too frightened to feed. Attempting to feed under these conditions can have several consequences:
Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.
Snakes frequently seem to associate the presence of the food item with the recent trauma of shipping, and will remember it! This is likely the reason for a juvenile snake refusing to feed after shipping. It simply associates the food item with the traumatic event. We recommend waiting about a week before attempting to feed snakes.
Alright guys, this is getting out of hand. My question: should I feed in 3 days.
Kathy Love's:
"After three days, you can give me a VERY SMALL meal, much smaller than would be typical for my size."
ApplegateReptiles.com:
"Initially, leave the snake alone in the cage for two or three days then offer a small meal that won't leave a lump in the snake."
PetSolutions.com:
"After placing the snake into its new home and clip down any screen tops securely. Do not attempt to feed your new snake for another 24 to 48 hours."
thecornpit.com:
"Meals: When you first bring home your new Corn snake "do not" attempt to feed them for at least 3 days, after which time the meal should be small ."
Snakecreations.com:
"...put it into its new enclosure and leave it alone for at least 72 hours."
TO CLARIFY:
I am not trying to argue, I am presenting the sources for my information. Because intended or not, I am a little offended by the perceived tone of some posts, and I don't think I should be belittled for asking a simple question for the well being of my snake... I googled "new corn snake acclimation" and the OVERWHELMING majority of information says to feed a SMALL meal in 3 days, so this is what I plan to do. Thank you for your help.
Kathy Love's:
"After three days, you can give me a VERY SMALL meal, much smaller than would be typical for my size."
ApplegateReptiles.com:
"Initially, leave the snake alone in the cage for two or three days then offer a small meal that won't leave a lump in the snake."
PetSolutions.com:
"After placing the snake into its new home and clip down any screen tops securely. Do not attempt to feed your new snake for another 24 to 48 hours."
thecornpit.com:
"Meals: When you first bring home your new Corn snake "do not" attempt to feed them for at least 3 days, after which time the meal should be small ."
Snakecreations.com:
"...put it into its new enclosure and leave it alone for at least 72 hours."
TO CLARIFY:
I am not trying to argue, I am presenting the sources for my information. Because intended or not, I am a little offended by the perceived tone of some posts, and I don't think I should be belittled for asking a simple question for the well being of my snake... I googled "new corn snake acclimation" and the OVERWHELMING majority of information says to feed a SMALL meal in 3 days, so this is what I plan to do. Thank you for your help.