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Snake vomitted

S

Shanth0ny

New member
I've had her for over a week now. She ate her first fuzzy last 2 Mondays ago and it was fine, no problems. But now this week I fed her one fuzzy again on Monday and I checked her cage today I she seems to have thrown up under her hiding spot.

I keep the cool side at around 75-80 degrees constantly, and a heating pad on the opposite side so she'll have belly heat to digest properly. Is the temp too low? Or should I be feeding her pinkies instead of fuzzies?

Here's a pic of her size in proportion to her meal:
1377117_10200539790848166_1300654983_n.jpg
 
Maybe the temps are bad? Warm side should be around 85, should NOT hit 90 cool side should be around 75.
 
Yes you definitely need to follow the regurge protocol ASAP! Check out the feeding section!
The size of the mouse looks fine to me... but for your next feeding (once you have read and complied with the protocol) you will be feeding something smaller.

Even though you mentioned your cool side temp, that doesn't tell us your warm side temp. How are you regulating the heat on that side? You *NEED* a thermostat (or rheostat) to regulate that heat, and make sure it doesn't get too hot! On their own UTHs can get well over 120F which will BURN your snake! With a thermostat you can set your temp to 85F where it should be, and it will only go up or down a couple of degrees.

How are you measuring the temps as well? Dial thermometers are not very accurate. Digital thermometers with probes are best (or a temp gun) for measuring the bottom of the tank, where the snake is (and not necessarily the ambient air temp).
Young corns are much more likely to regurge if their habitats aren't ace.
If there is only one temperature throughout the vive that is an issue as well, as corns need a heat gradient!

I hope this helps. Sadly corn regurges are quite serious matters...

Beautiful snake, by the way! Love the colours :)
 
Alright I'll follow the protocol! And yes I do have dial thermometers...hmmm perhaps I'll get digital ones!

So I should feed her the head? WHat do I do with the rest of the body?
 
In the pic, the mouse was probably the smallest in the pack. I still have one remaining and it's bigger than the one in that pic. Last time I trust Petco employees to pick out my snake's food....

I'm gonna try putting her on pinkies until she's a little thicker. If she lives through this....I'm really nervous she won't.
 
Follow the regurge protocol and you should be just fine. I would measure your warm side just to make sure it's not getting too hot. If it's acceptable range then I wouldn't worry about it.

Most snakes make it through a regurge without any issues if you follow the protocol. It's when you have 2-3 regurges in a row that they are in trouble.
 
NH93 said:
You *NEED* a thermostat (or rheostat) to regulate that heat, and make sure it doesn't get too hot! On their own UTHs can get well over 120F which will BURN your snake!
Click to expand...

I agree with everything stated in this thread, but 120 degree hot spots will not burn your corn. I've run Flexxwatt wide open (which gets as high as 145) for up to a year at a time in a well-ventilated enclosure. The danger isn't the snake burning, a healthy snake will not lay on something too hot. The danger is the rest of the enclosure getting too hot, and them not being able to get to a cooler place. Not to nitpick, but I keep seeing this "will burn your snake" thrown around when that simply isn't true, at least with corns and hognose given a gradient.

In the end, it is semantics, because with most UTH's a thermostat is needed, but the reason is the danger of overheating the entire enclosure, not burns. Any instances of colubrid snake burns can probably be attributed to either an unhealthy animal, a lack of any way to get away from the heat, or ambient temps so cold, the snake couldn't regulate.
 
Hmmm...
I guess I've seen so many posts about snake burns that maybe I threw it around. However, on another (ball python) forum, time and time again there are posts about snakes getting burnt by an unregulated UTH, when the snake didn't move off of the hot spot.
Snake in hand (literally) I agree with you Chip, but from the too many sad photos I've seen, I still believe burns will happen as I previously stated.
 
I was careful to say corns and colubrids, and not venture into snakes I didn't try this with. 30 corns and hogs were kept on unregulated 4" Flexwatt for a calender year without a burn or any health issues at all. I would have continued, but the back 1/3rd of the enclosure was only utilized right after a meal, and wide open heat tape just makes me nervous.
 
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