Some basic questions after researching.. please help

[ara35]

Here are my questions. Please feel free to answer 1 or 2 or all, anything helps!!


1. I read that newspaper or paper towels wouldn’t be a bad idea to start so you can spot mites, and easily see the snake. Is this necessary? If not, I think I’ll go with Reptibark
2. I was thinking of using the zilla critter cage. Will this be escape proof (not including human error of leaving it open)? I am really nervous about the snake getting out because I definitely do not want to lose him. Is it common for snakes to get out or do you basically have to do something wrong for this to take place?
3. For the lighting, I read that a red light would be useful at night if you wanted to look at the snake without affecting its regular nocturnal patterns. Does anyone have any experience with this? Would you suggest it? Also, how many lights do I need if im using a UTH?
4. I am also a little confused with the UTH and thermostat. What type would you suggest? Is a thermostat necessary? I am also a fish tank keeper and I know from experience that its much better to buy the upgrades now than to go at it cheap and realize you need more than you bought.
5. Lastly, can you grab the snake when it is coiled? If so, how do you do this? and how long does it usually take for a snake to become familiar with the handling? Also, would you ever suggest putting the snake down on a bed or the floor, or will it just take off and get away? That’s the last thing I want.

Thanks in advance for any and all responses!

 

[wstphal]

1. I read that newspaper or paper towels wouldn’t be a bad idea to start so you can spot mites, and easily see the snake. Is this necessary? If not, I think I’ll go with Reptibark
2. I was thinking of using the zilla critter cage. Will this be escape proof (not including human error of leaving it open)? I am really nervous about the snake getting out because I definitely do not want to lose him. Is it common for snakes to get out or do you basically have to do something wrong for this to take place?
3. For the lighting, I read that a red light would be useful at night if you wanted to look at the snake without affecting its regular nocturnal patterns. Does anyone have any experience with this? Would you suggest it? Also, how many lights do I need if im using a UTH?
4. I am also a little confused with the UTH and thermostat. What type would you suggest? Is a thermostat necessary? I am also a fish tank keeper and I know from experience that its much better to buy the upgrades now than to go at it cheap and realize you need more than you bought.
5. Lastly, can you grab the snake when it is coiled? If so, how do you do this? and how long does it usually take for a snake to become familiar with the handling? Also, would you ever suggest putting the snake down on a bed or the floor, or will it just take off and get away? That’s the last thing I want.

OK, I am a noobie. So take it for what it's worth
1. I am using aspen. My little hateling is quite dark, I wouldn't want to try to suss her out against Reptibark! Paper towels or shredded paper would work fine too & is easy & cheap.
2. The Zilla cage looks pretty secure when I looked at one in the store. I can't say more as I don't have enough experience yet.
3. I have just some household lights nearby so I can see my snakes. I have read that corn snakes don't need any special lighting like lizards do. Others can tell you more.
4. UTHs need t-stats or rheostats or they run too darn hot (ie, over 100F, too hot for corns, in my experience when I plugged them in to test them). It's as simple as that. Read the t-stat threads. I'm using rheostats for now but plan to upgrade soon.
5. The hateling doesn't like to be grabbed at any point. Humphrey & Icabod are fine with handling, and can be put down without them taking off, although I keep a close eye on them. Humphrey will take off in the direction of getting on me! LOL

 

[ComoxCorn]

I'll try and answer your questions from a personal perspective.

I read that newspaper or paper towels wouldn’t be a bad idea to start so you can spot mites, and easily see the snake. Is this necessary?

If you're concerned about mites, they would be easier to see on paper towel that on aspen. Also check the water dish, as snakes will often sit in the water to rid themselves of mites.

I was thinking of using the zilla critter cage. Will this be escape proof (not including human error of leaving it open)?

Zilla Critter Cages have a locking lid. Barring human error, they make very suitable vivariums.

For the lighting, I read that a red light would be useful at night if you wanted to look at the snake without affecting its regular nocturnal patterns. Does anyone have any experience with this?

My snakeroom lighting consists of a 50 watt red reptile light. When I am working in there at night time, I find it very easy to work with that lighting and my snakes seem to carry on about their business while I am working in this type of lighting without them retreating into their hides. Apparently, snakes don't seem to be able to see red as well as other colours. Ever been to the reptile house at a zoo? Many are lit with red lights.

I am also a little confused with the UTH and thermostat. What type would you suggest? Is a thermostat necessary?

There are several good brand name UTH's to use. Make sure you don't get the Desert UTH, as they operate at an even higher temp. A thermostat is a must!!! UTH's are generally hotter than the recommended temp required by a corn snake, and improperly set, they can injure your snake. 85 degrees at the contact point is an appropriate setting...meaning the area you are tryibng to heat should be 85 degrees under the substrate, on the vivarium floor.

Lastly, can you grab the snake when it is coiled? If so, how do you do this? and how long does it usually take for a snake to become familiar with the handling? Also, would you ever suggest putting the snake down on a bed or the floor, or will it just take off and get away? That’s the last thing I want.

Yes, you can pick the snake up when it is coiled. However, if the snake is in a defensive posture, it may strike at you. I just reach in, try to pick the snake up from the side, without hesitating. If it bites..it bites. It really doesn't hurt that bad. Just don't yank your hand away quickly if it bites you, as your snake may loose teeth in the process. Usually, a corn will hit and pull back quickly on its own. As far as putting a snake on the bed or the floor, just make sure both are clean. If you fear picking up your snake, then I wouldn't recommend it, as they can move pretty quickly. Also make sure there aren't any other pets around..i.e. dog or cat. If you handle your snake frequently, they tend to acclimatize to handling. Some snakes however just never take well to the idea of been handled.

Hope that helps

 

[requin]

I'm new to owning snakes too, but I've had mine for a few months now and I've read as much as I can, so I'll try and answer some questions for you. I'm no expert though!


1. Paper towels have the advantage of being very easy to clean and see mites (or your snake) on, but I prefer aspen because it's more aesthetically pleasing. I used reptibark at first and while it looked good, I didn't like it as much because it was harder to see the snake's waste and I was worried I wasn't cleaning well enough.

2. I don't know much about the Zilla cages so I can't answer that part. As for the other part - snakes are great at escaping but if you're meticulous and double check your enclosure to make sure nothing is loose or unlocked you should be fine.

3. I just use the ambient room light for my snake. You don't need heat lamps because corn snakes prefer belly heat as opposed to basking heat, plus heat lamps have a tendency to dry out your enclosure which can cause some difficulties with shedding.

4. You should definitely get a thermostat or at least a rheostat (a dimmer). You can even use a table top lamp dimmer if you want, and there's also a thread somewhere around here with instructions to make your own, but whatever you get make sure you have a good thermometer with a probe to check the temperature of the glass, in the middle of the UTH. A thermostat will keep the UTH at whatever temperature you set it to - a rheostat you might need to adjust a little bit throughout the day as the house temperature fluctuates. I would also recommend reading the reviews of whatever you buy before you buy it, because the first rheostat I bought was not very good and even turned all the way down still allowed the UTH to get too hot.

5. In my experience, snakes don't like being picked up at all when you first get them, at least not hatchlings! When I first got mine he would coil and strike and rattle his little tail and burrow in the aspen when I tried to pick him up, but it didn't take him too long not to go into panic mode when I put my hand in there. They do calm down relatively quickly with regular (but not too much) handling and as they get bigger and more familiar with you they get more comfortable being handled as well. My snake has only ever struck at me when I was hesitating to pick him up - if you're afraid of getting bitten (and I know I was!) you can use a glove to pick up the snake until you're more used to each other. FWIW, I got bitten for the first time ever last week and it didn't hurt at all, but it is very surprising.

 

[Nanci]

I use about 50% ExoTerra Desert Heats and 50% whatever the ZooMeds are. I haven't had a problem with the deserts getting too hot because of course they are on thermostats. I have heard that sometimes the Rainforest may not get warm enough- I've _heard_ of people struggling with it to get to 80F. So I've been leery of trying one, ever. I like the rubber feet that ExoTerras come with better than those that ZooMeds come with. I've had both fail, by just quitting, so it's important to have a probed thermometer so you can catch that right away.

To pick up a coiled snake (actually that's the easiest type to pick up!) just pick it up with all your fingers and thumb like you are picking up spaghetti out of a strainer.

I have 10 Critter Cages (glass tanks with sliding locking lids) in use and haven't had any problems with even the tiniest 6g hatchlings. I'd be afraid to keep a hatchling in anything else. After you close the lid, listen for the click and then pull back to make sure it's latched. Be sure to check any hides/fake branches/fake trees for tiny holes that the baby can get into and then you can't get them out or even find them. I'd pretty much recommend staying away from any fake trees/branches unless you post a pic here first to see if it's a type with a known hidey hole.

I don't think Reptibark is as easy for the snake to burrow in, or for you to find poo in, as aspen. And it may have various insects in it. Aspen _rarely_ has insects.

 

[Asbit]

This has been taken from Don Soderberg's book Corn Snakes in Captivity

Chp 2 Housing subsection Substrate pg. 28 second paragraph

"There are at least four substrate materials you should never use for corn snakes. Never use sand, gravel, cedar, or tree bark products........The bark of trees contains the highest concentrations of harmful chemicals. One piece of bark in the snake's water could pollute it with harmful that will be consumed by your pet during its next drink. Also, if ingested the relatively large sizes of bark pieces are not easily passed through the digestive tract."

Just thought I would give you that in response to the use of repti bark, along with what Nanci already mentioned. In my opinion I would stick to Aspen.

 

[bitsy]

Interesting - I've used bark chips for years, as sold by my reptile shop. I'd have thought it was a pretty standard substrate material for Corns. Is it possible that the comment in the book refers only to the bark of known harmful trees? I don't own the book myself and aspen isn't as readily available in the UK.

 

[Asbit]

Bitsy here is that paragraph in it's entirety. Just so you can read it as it was in the book.

"There are at least four substrate materials you should never use for corn snakes. Never use sand, gravel, cedar, or tree bark products. Sand and gravel have no absorption properties. In sand and gravel, when water is spilled or your snake defecates on it, the moisture is trapped in the substrate where it becomes a growth medium from bacteria and other germs. It will eventually evaporate, but the interim bacterial growth will contribute to odors and poor hygiene for your snake. Cases of intestinal impaction have been attributed to sand consumption. Cedar is toxic to your snake and prolonged exposure to it will cause nerve damage than can result in death. I have seen cases where a snake died the came day cedar was introduced to the cage. The bark of trees contains the highest concentrations of harmful chemicals. One piece of bark in the snake's water could pollute it with harmful that will be consumed by your pet during its next drink. Also, if ingested the relatively large sizes of bark pieces are not easily passed through the digestive tract."

He does not talk about aromatic tree barks specifically, just tree barks and the fact that they hold any insect repelling chemicals at the highest levels in them.

I did not realize Aspen is hard to get in the UK, do you know why, just out of curiosity?

 

[bitsy]

Cedar is toxic to your snake and prolonged exposure to it will cause nerve damage than can result in death. I have seen cases where a snake died the came day cedar was introduced to the cage. The bark of trees contains the highest concentrations of harmful chemicals. One piece of bark in the snake's water could pollute it with harmful that will be consumed by your pet during its next drink.

Thanks Tisha. I'm reading the second and third sentences as referring to the cedar bark only.

 

[Asbit]

See and with the coma between cedar and tree bark products I read it as any tree bark products. Just goes to show that even though something is clearly written interpretation is not always that clear.

I would be interested to know exactly what Don meant.

 

[bitsy]

I know it's only an observation, but I've had plenty of (non-resinous) bark drop into water bowls over the years and have never seen any ill effects. Would be interesting to have confirmation of Don's exact meaning, but don't think I'll stress over it.

 

[snakewispera snr]

Put your new snake in a quarantine viv that has been sprayed with P-A-M. (prevent-a mite)... After a month put it in it's viv...... Your mite problem is solved.....

 

[Asbit]

Mike did I miss something in this thread or did you??? I don't remember mites coming up in this conversation.:rofl: