Grimreaperdj
New member
My Amelanistic Zig Zag, the last time he/she eat was 23/2/08, (2 weeks) is this normal?? she is 22.6 grams, 18~ inches :S I'm worried...
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This is normal?
- Thread starter Grimreaperdj
- Start date
Sometimes snakes will go off their feed for a bit.
It could be due to breeding season (although, from the size of your corn, I assume it is young and breeding would not play a part for her).
Temperatures can, also, play a roll. If it is not warm enough, they could go off their feed.
Another thing could be due to shedding. Some snakes will refuse feed if they are in blue (shed mode) and others may even refuse feed a week or two in advance of shedding.
A change might be enough to put them off feed, for a bit, too.
Then, at times, it is for no apparent reason.
If your snake's viv/enclosure temps are where they should be, just keep trying to feed periodically. Wait 4-5 days between attempts though.
If your snake is about to shed, wait until a day, or two, after she sheds.
Snakes can go without eating for awhile. Although I know that two weeks may be worrisome, for you, it is, actually, not enough time, yet, to overly fret.
Although, not 100% guaranteed ... A bit of info, such as enclosure temperatures, enclosure conditions, enclosure set up, what you are feeding, how you are feeding, etc., etc. may help pin point the problem.
It could be due to breeding season (although, from the size of your corn, I assume it is young and breeding would not play a part for her).
Temperatures can, also, play a roll. If it is not warm enough, they could go off their feed.
Another thing could be due to shedding. Some snakes will refuse feed if they are in blue (shed mode) and others may even refuse feed a week or two in advance of shedding.
A change might be enough to put them off feed, for a bit, too.
Then, at times, it is for no apparent reason.
If your snake's viv/enclosure temps are where they should be, just keep trying to feed periodically. Wait 4-5 days between attempts though.
If your snake is about to shed, wait until a day, or two, after she sheds.
Snakes can go without eating for awhile. Although I know that two weeks may be worrisome, for you, it is, actually, not enough time, yet, to overly fret.
Although, not 100% guaranteed ... A bit of info, such as enclosure temperatures, enclosure conditions, enclosure set up, what you are feeding, how you are feeding, etc., etc. may help pin point the problem.
Grimreaperdj
New member
So much thanx Pasodama, ermmm the tempeture of my tank is 73-82, it is that nice?, dont have a hydrometer for humity but Im always spraying water in the tank. His last mice was in february 23, and he shed in february 28. That makes sense?
It does make sense that your snake did not eat between Feb. 23rd and Feb. 28th. Probably did not eat, during that time, due to the shedding process. This is normal for many snakes. However, after shedding, it should start to eat again (barring any other reason for not eating).
Are those temps 73 on the cool side and 82 on the warm side? ... or are those fluctuating temps?
If these temps are more, or less, steady and the lower number is for cool side, with 82 for warm side, ...
73, on the cool side is not too bad, but you may want to bump it up a couple of degrees (to around 75 or so). Same with the warm side... 82 is not too bad but you may want to bump it up to about 85 degrees. These would be temps at the substrate level and not part way up the side of the tank/viv.
That was the other question I had not asked you: where the temps are taken from (if at substrate level, or part way up the side, or elsewhere).
Also, did not ask if you use a digital thermometer or a stick on. Stick-ons are not very reliable.
Cornsnakes do not require high levels of humidity. Spraying the tank (once or twice a day) should only be done when the snake is in blue (about to shed), if the humidity truly is too low. If you are, otherwise, always spraying ... you could set your cornsnake up for a respiratory infection, or another from of infection, due to too much humidity.
Do you use a UTH (Under Tank Heater), or lamps, or both for providing heat?
If you use a UTH, do you also use a thermostat or a rheostat? The use of a thermostat, or a rheostat, is highly recommended if/when using a UTH. This is because, without one of these devices, the UTH can become too hot and could, possibly, cause burns to your snake.
Are those temps 73 on the cool side and 82 on the warm side? ... or are those fluctuating temps?
If these temps are more, or less, steady and the lower number is for cool side, with 82 for warm side, ...
73, on the cool side is not too bad, but you may want to bump it up a couple of degrees (to around 75 or so). Same with the warm side... 82 is not too bad but you may want to bump it up to about 85 degrees. These would be temps at the substrate level and not part way up the side of the tank/viv.
That was the other question I had not asked you: where the temps are taken from (if at substrate level, or part way up the side, or elsewhere).
Also, did not ask if you use a digital thermometer or a stick on. Stick-ons are not very reliable.
Cornsnakes do not require high levels of humidity. Spraying the tank (once or twice a day) should only be done when the snake is in blue (about to shed), if the humidity truly is too low. If you are, otherwise, always spraying ... you could set your cornsnake up for a respiratory infection, or another from of infection, due to too much humidity.
Do you use a UTH (Under Tank Heater), or lamps, or both for providing heat?
If you use a UTH, do you also use a thermostat or a rheostat? The use of a thermostat, or a rheostat, is highly recommended if/when using a UTH. This is because, without one of these devices, the UTH can become too hot and could, possibly, cause burns to your snake.