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what temp.
- Thread starter koa94
- Start date
daneale777
New member
I think they usually say about 75 on the cool end and 85 on the warm end is pretty good. What are you using to measure temps? The stick on thermometers are junk for corns. The ones that seem to work the best are the ones with probes that you can get at local pet stores. You're doing a good job checking all of this before you put the snake in, btw.
LBoz
Original Curmudgeon
I agree!
I just moved my guy into a 40 long aquarium that is on a stand that's open underneath. The heat pad is now open to air, but the temp reads 90, even with the rheostat turned all the way down. I added about 4 inches of aspen on his warm side so he can get as close or as far away as he needs to. Just thought I'd toss this out in case you were having a heat issue with your heater getting too warm.
daneale777
New member
I agree!
I just moved my guy into a 40 long aquarium that is on a stand that's open underneath. The heat pad is now open to air, but the temp reads 90, even with the rheostat turned all the way down. I added about 4 inches of aspen on his warm side so he can get as close or as far away as he needs to. Just thought I'd toss this out in case you were having a heat issue with your heater getting too warm.
yeah, its one of the junky kinds! lol, i got it in a pack of a whole bunch of stuff! I will try to get another one soon
After what I read this morning (on another site) about someone who almost had a catastrophe on her hands due to heating, I've decided that you can't be too careful. She was very close to losing her snakes ANd her home.
I've always (since September when I started) kept my five in aquariums with heat mats underneath the glass. I now do have a couple on a rack, but again with heat mats. I'm in the process of building a multi snake enclosure, but am doing it with flexwatt and a quality rheostat. I'm going to make sure that the flexwatt is open to air in the back (since I'm running it along the back, not under) and I'm actually planning on making a wall of ceramic tile between the snakes and the flexwatt, for proper dispersion. I only have five corns so far, but am expecting pippies any day and always want more. I think that, for me, just having one or three snakes to watch the heat on might be okay like I've been doing it, I'll feel safer now with more, knowing that the heat is more exactly, properly regulated.
I'm pretty darn low income (on S.S.) but have found a way to do all of this on a limited budget. Of course I'd rather have happy, healthy snakes than buy anything for myself, so that helps. Besides, the snakes are what makes me happy, not the other "things" in life.
Good luck with yours. Let us know how it all turns out.
kcaven
LOCA for corn snakes !!!
Oh BTW...its best to have a thermostat or a rheostat when you hook up your UTH (heating mat)...just to make sure the glass temp doesnt get too hot and burn your snake. It will regulate your heater 24hrs a day so you dont have to worry about forgetting to check it. Also, if your house temp changes (like when AC kicks on/off) it will adjust the temps accordingly. I have a ZooMed 500R. I am going to get a digital thermometer with probe this weekend so I can get an accurate reading. That is important too.
koa94
New member
i have a ZooMed not sure if its 500R. I turn the heat mat on and off and each time it hasnt gotton to the point where it hurts my hand when i touch it. I am just concerned that if i leave and the heat mat is too high that it will burn my snake of much worse things. Thank you so much for the advice though. I should be getting my snake next Monday or Tuesday and i am EXTREMLY excited. I will let you know when i get it.
P.S. i am getting a girl corn snake-any suggestions?
P.S. i am getting a girl corn snake-any suggestions?
If it feels warm to you then it's too hot for the snake.
If you don't want to buy a thermostat ($22 and up), you can use a $9 lamp dimmer from WalMart or a hardware store. Make sure you also have a digital thermometer with a wired probe ($9-$12 also at Walmart hardware dept) and put the probe right on the glass over the UTH, under the substrate. You want the temp there to be about 85-86. You can adjust it with the lamp dimmer.
If you use a ZooMed UTH with nothing to control it, it will quickly heat up to 120 degrees or higher which is dangerous for a corn snake. You really can't rely on turning it off manually. It will get too hot long before that.
If you don't want to buy a thermostat ($22 and up), you can use a $9 lamp dimmer from WalMart or a hardware store. Make sure you also have a digital thermometer with a wired probe ($9-$12 also at Walmart hardware dept) and put the probe right on the glass over the UTH, under the substrate. You want the temp there to be about 85-86. You can adjust it with the lamp dimmer.
If you use a ZooMed UTH with nothing to control it, it will quickly heat up to 120 degrees or higher which is dangerous for a corn snake. You really can't rely on turning it off manually. It will get too hot long before that.
daneale777
New member
The person I read about earlier today (on another site) was using a dimmer with a probe also. She's thinking now, after consulting with other highly reputable people that the problem (that very nearly caused her house to catch on fire, and in a big way) was that there wasn't enough air circulation between the heater and the viv, I believe. I have mine set up right now just underneath the glass of the aquariums I'm using, but will be changing this in the next couple weeks, to be conductive to airflow; aka I'm building a new "system". Just be careful. I didn't think that what I've been doing would ever be a problem, but apparently it can sometimes. Luckily I'm home most of the time, but most people aren't.
daneale777
New member
Well that's good to hear. Thanks.
Bram
New member
Not to dissuade anyone, but this isn't an absolute statement. Many dimmers do generate heat as a result of their reducing output power. Under normal operating conditions this setup should be A-OK, but as with all electronics if one were defective or badly wired then yes, a fire could be a very possible outcome.
Also, the commonly used heating element Flex Watt isn't approved in some countries because of the fire risk.
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daneale777
New member
Well isn't that a scarey thought? Both the dimmer part, which I don't use and the Flex Watt part, which I am beginning to set up today for the first time (with a rheostat). Luckily for me, my dad happens to be an electrician, which is part of the reason that I soldered them at his work. Even he's pretty sceptical about the whole thing. I don't like that much. As I think I've said before, I'm glad I'm home most of the time. I've been testing out my newly wired FlexWatt today, with close monitoring. None of the three I set up today will go anywhere near any of my snakes (or soon to be pippies) until I can rest comfortably that they are se up the best they can be.
Thanks for telling us this.