Heat Lamp VS Under Tank Heater

[zeus3007]

Under Tank Heater's all the way.

I understand that the majority are saying this. But that's not good enough for me, I need to know why, ha ha.

 

[knox]

Under Tank Heater's all the way.

I respect your opinion, but choose to follow Mr. Vosjoli...



Philippe de Vosjoli's book, The Art of Keeping Snakes, page 95-96:

"In nature, the thermal gradients used by ectothermic animals are generated by solar radiation. Heat from the sun is absorbed, dissipated, stored, or reflected...
Provide heat primarily with overhead incandescent lighting placed above basking sites of wood or rock that can absorb heat. The most common method is to place a reflector-type fixture with an incandescent bulb or spot-light on the enclosure's screen top and position it over the basking site"


I DO like the clean, uncluttered look of an UTH. But I like not having to use a Thermostat with my dome lights. Inexpensive and very effective.

Racks are a different thing altogether. I always use Flexwatt when I build racks.

Fortunately for all of us, snakes are resilient and thrive with both. There is no right or wrong here, which has been my whole argument in this thread. Both are not only acceptable, but BOTH are GOOD

 

[Ahmad Rahim]

I understand that the majority are saying this. But that's not good enough for me, I need to know why, ha ha.

Well first off, corn snakes need belly heat, especially when they are digesting, and UTH are MUCH easier to control the temperature with, just use a thermostat/rheostat and you'll be fine.

Now with heating lamps it's a different story, first off it makes the air too dry, since it's a lamp just sitting above the tank, I've seen people that have used heat lamps, and their tank temperature reached 95 f,
now i think that itself should be a persuasion as to why you should get a UTH.

 

[Ahmad Rahim]

I respect your opinion, but choose to follow Mr. Vosjoli...



Philippe de Vosjoli's book, The Art of Keeping Snakes, page 95-96:

"In nature, the thermal gradients used by ectothermic animals are generated by solar radiation. Heat from the sun is absorbed, dissipated, stored, or reflected...
Provide heat primarily with overhead incandescent lighting placed above basking sites of wood or rock that can absorb heat. The most common method is to place a reflector-type fixture with an incandescent bulb or spot-light on the enclosure's screen top and position it over the basking site"

I DO like the clean, uncluttered look of an UTH. But I like not having to use a Thermostat with my dome lights. Inexpensive and very effective.

Racks are a different thing altogether. I always use Flexwatt when I build racks.

Fortunately for all of us, snakes are resilient and thrive with both. There is no right or wrong here, which has been my whole argument in this thread. Both are not only acceptable, but BOTH are GOOD

That is true, because in a way a heat lamp could be another sun, but in the wild snakes have more options, and more places to hide then in a 20g tank. Either way, I agree with you, a snake will probably survive with both, and if you are look for a cheap route, then go with a heating lamp.

 

[knox]

As far as the whole "Belly Heat" argument goes...

If the ambient temperature in the enclosure on the warm side is 85 degrees, the substrate will also be 85 degrees, thereby PROVIDING belly heat. I am not sure why this elementary fact is lost on so many.

Now, this is NOT necessarily the case with UTH. Because the surface temp could be much GREATER than the ambient temp. This is why a digital thermometer with a probe is used instead of those stick on thermometers sold by ZooMed. Ambient temps mean almost nothing - within reason, of course - when dealing with UTH.

 

[MysticExotics]

Belly heat, back of tub heat, ambient heat= they all work for digestion.

It doesn't *have* to be belly heat for them to digest properly.

Heat lamps do dry out the air, but in more humid climates, that's not always a bad thing.

The best thing a reptile keeper can do, is research all the options, & use what works best in their situation. There is no *one* way to properly care for them.

 

[bitsy]

Now, this is NOT necessarily the case with UTH. Because the surface temp could be much GREATER than the ambient temp.

Unless your Corn spends a lot of time in midair, ambient temp when using a UTH is irrelevant. Mainly because they're designed to heat the floor/wall surface and are not intended to provide ambient heat.

The temp of the floor surface should be what you're trying to control when using a UTH, so the floor should always be the ideal max, not the air above, where the snake isn't. That's why stat probe needs to go on the floor, immediately above the position of the UTH. Things go wrong with the max temp when the stat probe is incorrectly placed part way up the tank, in the mistaken belief that a UTH is supposed to heat the air in the same way that an overhead source does.

I still say that properly set up, both UTHs and overhead sources work well for Corns - they're one of the most bombproof pet snakes out there.

 

[naja]

Then I suppose I am keeping the only Corn and King that are active in and 85 degree tank with an overhead light.

You're not the only one. I currently have a lavender corn and an albino cali king which both have overhead heat provided by lamps. They are both active at times during the day, and they are healthy. Maybe it's a TN thing....

I've also kept other species this way over the years (hognose and milks). I have also used rack systems with flexwatt and had good success as well. I prefer glass aquariums these days with heat lamps so I can see the snakes when they are active.