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1.0 Lav het amel, blood, stripe

Ok, one more thing I wanted to mention (and since I'm already the village idiot here obviously, what the heck). I have never engaged in aggressive feeding, but do feed a healthy rate/size. My snakes are up to safe recommended breeding weight by their 3rd year, and in good form, so I'm pretty sure I'm not starving anyone. So what's my point? Well, there is one thing that I have yet to experience in my collection. A regurge. Not a single one. How many "aggressive" feeders can say that? There's a health risk for you (and no, I'm not saying every regurge is caused by over feeding, just for the record, but some could be).
 
Duff said:
Did I include the Munson plan part in the quoted part of my response? Didn't think so.
You didn't have to. You accused Joe of power feeding when he stated that he was going to use the Munson plan to try and get them to breeding size in two years. I simply pointed out that it appeared that you were calling the Munson plan a power feeding plan.
FWIW, you cleared that issue up. Ok. Fine. I raised a snake to over 500 grams by feeding once every 5 to 7 days withing two years. Similarly, another snake, with the same feeding schedule, only made 80 grams in the same time. So am I only a wanna be power feeder? Or am I only power feeding the one snake but not the other? Not as accelerated as the Munson plan.. but dayum.. what growth! I must be power feeding. :rolleyes:
 
Fizzlefry22 said:
You didn't have to. You accused Joe of power feeding when he stated that he was going to use the Munson plan to try and get them to breeding size in two years. I simply pointed out that it appeared that you were calling the Munson plan a power feeding plan.
You made an assumption, and it was wrong. Which is why people should stop jumping into them so quickly.

Fizzlefry22 said:
I raised a snake to over 500 grams by feeding once every 5 to 7 days withing two years. Similarly, another snake, with the same feeding schedule, only made 80 grams in the same time. So am I only a wanna be power feeder? Or am I only power feeding the one snake but not the other? Not as accelerated as the Munson plan.. but dayum.. what growth! I must be power feeding. :rolleyes:
Was your plan, from day one, to get a breedable size animal by 2 years, or did it just happen? There's a big difference between it just happened, and "I made sure it happened", which is the stated goal here. Obviously some are gonna get there quick no matter what. I do have a brain, ya know.
 
Duff said:
Anyone else see the hypocrisy here? There is a common train of thought that feeding aggressively early in a snakes life may affect the lifespan or long term health of the snake. Therefore, in the snakes best interest, you shouldn't do that, just to be safe.

Now, move on to cohabbing (if done responsibly, not mixed-sexes, knowing what you're doing, yada yada yada). The ultimate sin, because it only benefits the keeper and there's a chance, however slim, that it could harm the snakes involved. What the h e double hockey sticks is the difference?? But I'm being ridiculous and unreasonable on aggressive feeding. :shrugs:

And to borrow (and adjust accordingly) a popular quote that people love to throw out on the above issue... There's never a problem with aggressive feeding until there's a problem with aggressive feeding (i.e. snake dies early, goes fertile early, whatever could possibly result from it). There are sooooo many hypocrites here.

I don't know if it's so much that people are hypocrites as it is that there is evidence to support the discouragement of some corn husbandry practices (e.g., cohabbing) and a distinct lack of evidence for discouraging others (e.g., aggressive feeding to acheive breeding size). I have personal experience with some of the negative consequences of cohabbing, while I've read numerous accounts of others that I did not experience personally.

I consider Kathy Love and Don Soderberg to be two of the most reputable authorities on corn snakes. Here's what they have to say about corn growth and cohabbing:
Kathy Love said:
...In fact, with an above-average devotion of time and feeding effort on your part, corns may achieve the minimal breeding size of about 30 inches at nine to ten months of age. Most keepers, however, raise their corns to sexual maturity in about eighteen to twenty months, at which time they are typically in the 36--42-inch range... Adulthood is positively a factor of size, not age, in corn snakes.
Don Soderberg said:
A feeding regimen of one prey item every four days is considered aggressive feeding. Feeding every two to three days is called power feeding and is not recommended. Under nearly perfect conditions, a neonate corn will thrive from being power fed, but there is an increased chance of regurgitation if done improperly...

...Just like any animal, as a corn's growth rate slows, it requires fewer calories. Therefore, when your snake reaches approximately 36" long, it is considered mature and you should discontinue accelerated feeding regimens.
Note that in Don's comments, he makes a distinction between aggressive feeding and power feeding (for neonates anyway). According to him, they are not the same thing. Neither Kathy nor Don appear to be discouraging aggressive feeding. Don even seems to imply that there may be a proper way to power feed. Kathy seems to imply that sexual maturity at eighteen months is par for the course.

On to cohabbing. Kathy says this:

Kathy Love said:
Housing corns individually, except of course during breeding efforts, is the time-honored method for observation. This is especially important during the first few months of life.
She goes on to list the risks of cohabbing, and concludes the section with this:
Kathy Love said:
These potential problems can be avoided by housing your corns singly to lead a solitary lifestyle as they would in nature.
Don doesn't have as much to say about cohabbing in his book, but he does write this:
Don Soderberg said:
It is recommended that you keep just one corn snake per cage. As adults, corns rarely cause injury to each other when communally housed, but neonates are at great risk when caged together.
Not all opinions are created equal, so I'll go with my own personal experiences and the recommendations of experts to form my conclusions. It would appear that my opinions are in line with Kathy's and Don's, so I'm not really worried about being labeled a hypocrite (not that you accused ME of being one, Duff). If I AM one, then I'm in good company. ;)
 
Roy Munson said:
...I have personal experience with some of the negative consequences of cohabbing...
You consider your experiences with cohabbing, as you should. So why do you not consider your experiences with regurges back when you were feeding a bit more "aggressively" than you do now? One of the quotes you provided specifically mentioned regurges as a possible problem with over feeding (call it whatever you want). I remember reading a post from you awhile ago about your regurge experiences (too tired to try and find it right now) back then, so you've obviously had them. I'm not saying you're doing this anymore, we've been there done that and all. And you have admittedly slowed down your feeding schedules, IIRC.

And just so you know, and for the public record, I have no problem with you, but since you appear to be trying to rip apart my statements, I see my response here as only fair.

PS. Did I mention I have no experience with regurges because I've never had a single one?
 
Joejr14 said:
And how many snakes do you currently own?
Wow, was that not the most predictable question. No I don't have alot by most standards, but I also have no problem answering your question. I have 12 corns, 4 BPs, 2 MBKs and 2 BCIs. So let me guess... I'm too much a small fry to have any clue what I'm talking about, right?

I notice instead of saying... neither have I, you're going for the discredit me angle.
 
Duff said:
Wow, was that not the most predictable question. No I don't have alot by most standards, but I also have no problem answering your question. I have 12 corns, 4 BPs, 2 MBKs and 2 BCIs. So let me guess... I'm too much a small fry to have any clue what I'm talking about, right?

I notice instead of saying... neither have I, you're going for the discredit me angle.


Well when you have 20 total snakes, no, you don't have a very big sample size. How many of those are adults? Adults hardly ever regurge. In fact, I'd say 95% of regurges occur in hatchlings.

And despite what you'd like to believe, not all regurges occur from aggressive feeding or too large of a meal. Sometimes certain snakes do not eat going into blue---or if fed right as they're going into blue will regurge. Having regurges is not a sign of a poor collector, or someone that is overfeeding their snakes.

Try hatching out 100 corns in a season and keeping your 'no regurge' title.
 
Duff said:
You consider your experiences with cohabbing, as you should. So why do you not consider your experiences with regurges back when you were feeding a bit more "aggressively" than you do now? One of the quotes you provided specifically mentioned regurges as a possible problem with over feeding (call it whatever you want). I remember reading a post from you awhile ago about your regurge experiences (too tired to try and find it right now) back then, so you've obviously had them. I'm not saying you're doing this anymore, we've been there done that and all. And you have admittedly slowed down your feeding schedules, IIRC.
I DO consider my experiences with regurges. You acknowledge the proof of this above: I stopped feeding as aggressively. The regurges were very few, and only happened with a very small number of what I call "slow starters"-- you know, the ones that don't grow much for months despite your best efforts. I remember the post you're referencing; I think I wrote something to the effect that I felt that some of the hatchlings were getting "backed up". At that point, I was feeding hatchlings every three or four days, and nearly all of them thrived on that schedule-- but a few didn't. I no longer have the time nor the inclination to grow them that quickly, so I try to feed hatchlings every five days. But occasionally, this extends to six or even seven days. This would have been unthinkable for me in '05! :grin01:

And just so you know, and for the public record, I have no problem with you, but since you appear to be trying to rip apart my statements, I see my response here as only fair.
And I have no problem with you. I've actually been very pleased with the fact that we buried the hatchet some months back (after whacking each other in the head with it pretty good for a stretch ;) ). I didn't mean to come across as if I was ripping apart your statements. Maybe it's just my writing style. I just wanted to make the point that being anti-cohab and pro-aggressive-feeding doesn't necessarily make someone a hypocrite.

PS. Did I mention I have no experience with regurges because I've never had a single one?
I think you might have mentioned it in passing. :laugh: I don't think I mentioned that I had a number of '05s successfully produce some awesome hatchlings this year, did I? (A couple of them were the "slow starters" from way back when.) All recovered well and are about to be brumated for next season. :cheers:
 
Joejr14 said:
Well when you have 20 total snakes, no, you don't have a very big sample size. How many of those are adults? Adults hardly ever regurge. In fact, I'd say 95% of regurges occur in hatchlings.

And despite what you'd like to believe, not all regurges occur from aggressive feeding or too large of a meal. Sometimes certain snakes do not eat going into blue---or if fed right as they're going into blue will regurge. Having regurges is not a sign of a poor collector, or someone that is overfeeding their snakes.

Try hatching out 100 corns in a season and keeping your 'no regurge' title.
Only 2 of my adults did I not raise myself (only 2 of my corns are currently hatchlings). And I've fed snakes in full blue many times, because they were scheduled, and didn't mind eating then. Some don't like it, but I let them decide. And if you had read my posts completely, you would have seen that I was not saying every regurge is from over feeding. I fully admit occasionally regurges can happen with the best of care, but at the same time, if their is a pattern or more than a spattering, maybe there's a reason. Of course I have yet to have to worry about any of that, as I've never had a snake regurge on me.
 
Duff said:
There are sooooo many hypocrites here.
So, just to be clear, were you calling ME a hypocrite?

I would probably be what you would call an aggressive feeder, when I remember to feed regularly (which is a little spotty), and I expect most of my snakes to be at 300g by two years (I won't brumate). I got them last August out of the egg and they range from 150-200g now. Sometimes I don't feed these snakes for two weeks, but when they were little, I was quite regular with them. I've had one regurge, in all of my collection, and that was early in my snake-keeping and clearly related to temperature, as I had turned off all the heating and then the temperature dropped unexpectedly the night after I fed.

Honestly, I always wonder what the issue is with this assertion that if you feed them too fast and they grow up fast they die young. First, there's not been any clear evidence of this presented, but life history theory does dictate that there's a trade-off between reproduction and longevity. However, we're not talking here about breeding a female repeatedly when she's in bad condition and probably killing her by overbreeding her. We're talking about allowing a snake to achieve its maximum growth curve. Most animals are selected to mature as quickly as they can given the resources that they have so that they can reproduce as quickly as possible. In terms of natural selection on life history traits, the ONE thing that can earn you extra great-grandkids more than anything else is maturing and starting to reproduce early. WAY more than extending your reproductive lifespan. So these and all animals are selected to maximize what they're given in terms of food and to mature as early as they can. But anyway. That's all academic. So let's say that it's true. Let's say that maturing early decreases lifespan. Given that we're not wearing out these females by making them reproduce twice a year without enough food, it's not likely to cut their lifespan in half, jsut shorten it some. My question when this comes up is, who really cares?

I don't. I don't care if my dog dies after 10 years or 12. I don't care if my snakes die after 10 years or 12. Heck, I don't care if I die after 75 years or 85 (at least not right now, I don't). And actually, there are people who study life history in humans who will suggest that none of us cares if we die at 75 or 85. Rather, we care if what we do NOW is fun and sexy. We've been under selection for millions of years to want to do what gets us immediate benefits (likely manifest in the form of gratification, like the joy of fatful food, sugar-rich food, smoking, etc.) and not to care too much about things that lengthen life span. Things, no matter what they are, that lengthen life span are under VERY weak selection. Some people would conclude that weak selection for traits that lengthen life span and the fact that people are generally unmotivated at young and middle ages to do things that will inevitably lengthen their lifespan later might be related. :shrugs: No way to know for sure of course.

All this is to say that I don't really get what all the hubbub is about in terms of allowing your snakes to grow to maturity at two years versus restraining their growth to hold them back to maturing at three. I DO get the hubbub about co-habbing and having breedings that you weren't planning, with females that you HAVEN'T assessed and decided to be up to weight and well-toned enough to be able to breed. I don't get the hubbub about feeding your snakes so that they grow according to their maximum potential rather than feeding them so that they grow slower than that.
 
desertanimal said:
So, just to be clear, were you calling ME a hypocrite?
Honestly, not sure. Only if the shoe fits.

desertanimal said:
In terms of natural selection on life history traits, the ONE thing that can earn you extra great-grandkids more than anything else is maturing and starting to reproduce early.
Since you brought the human element into this, I can respond with the human element. Sure, I can get my daughters to reproduce at 11 or 12 years old, and increase the number of grand (and great-grand, etc...etc...etc) -kids I would get to know, but that doesn't mean it's a good call on my part.
desertanimal said:
But anyway. That's all academic. So let's say that it's true. Let's say that maturing early decreases lifespan. Given that we're not wearing out these females by making them reproduce twice a year without enough food, it's not likely to cut their lifespan in half, jsut shorten it some. My question when this comes up is, who really cares?
I could be wrong (and will readily admit when I am), but I'm guessing the snakes in question may care when/if their lifes are cut short because someone couldn't stand the thought of another breeder beating them to a gene combo, or having to wait another year to reach their goal (as in the breeders goal, not the snakes goal, so the least we can do is not push their bodies anymore than we do already).

desertanimal said:
I don't. I don't care if my dog dies after 10 years or 12. I don't care if my snakes die after 10 years or 12. Heck, I don't care if I die after 75 years or 85 (at least not right now, I don't).
That's totally your call for yourself, but to be honest, if you don't take your pets into consideration... I just hope if reincarnation does actually happen, I don't come back as one of your pets.

desertanimal said:
And actually, there are people who study life history in humans who will suggest that none of us cares if we die at 75 or 85. Rather, we care if what we do NOW is fun and sexy.
I must've missed that survey, cause I do care. And I don't need to be fun or sexy, as long as I'm doing right for myself, my family and my friends. And doing everything in my power to help my pets (read: also part of my family) reach their maximum life span is part of my responsibility by taking them under my care.
 
Sorry this is a bit off topic...... ;)

Hey Joe....nice project you got going there! WOW! If you ever want to send a second pair somewhere....
 
Good looking snakes you have there. I have to say I am completely jealous of you and Dean. I sure wish I had a pair of those babies!

As for the feeding thing, I don't see anything wrong with some one playing around with prey size and frequency of feeding in order to get their babies to adult hood faster. Any baby animal is more susceptible to death and in my opinion the quicker you get your corns to an adult size the better.

If raising baby corns quickly is bad for their health I want to see the data. Yes if you feed your corn too big a mouse it will regurge so that's not the data I'm talking about.

Back in 98 I fed my first baby corns the day after they pooped which was on the third day. They grew fast and were healthy. When I first came to this sight in 04 I had read that every third day was too much and so I cut back to once a week feedings. I believe my snakes suffered because of it.
 
You probably couldn't get your daughters to reproduce at 11 or 12. You can get them cycling that young, but most women have anovulatory cycles for some time after first menstruation. But, since modern hunter-gatherers don't start cycling until much later--like 17 or 18--and don't usually actually reproduce first until their early 20s, because they don't have access to as much food resources as women in industrialized societies. you might consider whether you've been feeding your daughters too much. It's inarguably the case that all this feeding of offspring that we do in industrialized societies is growing them up and getting them to breeding age (both possible breeding, and often realized breeding) faster than what happens "in the wild." Additionally, the feeding that we do in industrialized societies shortens the interbirth interval (equivalent to double-clutching) compared to what happens "in the wild." You definitely could slow down your daughters' growth, thereby delaying their age at first reproduction (or age at menarche, or both) as well as keep their interbirth intervals much longer (rather than allowing them to pump out babies every 12-18 months) by feeding them less. So perhaps you should consider cutting back their dinner portions, or maybe the quality of their dinner portions.

But this isn't generally recommended is it? Generally, it's recommended that you feed your children enough to allow them to grow at their maximum potential, but not too much to make them fat.

As with snakes, there's no good evidence that maturing earlier shortens adult lifespan. On average, we still live longer than modern hunter gatherers because of access to medical care and because of low threat from predation by large cats and accidental death by venemous snakes, hypothermia, etc. Of course, our old age might be plagued more by health problems than their old age, but so far, your concern seems to be more about the length of life, not the quality of it. I let my cats go outside because I feel it increases the quality of their lives. You say I don't take my pets into consideration because I make choices for them that will likely decrease the length of their lives.

Duff said:
That's totally your call for yourself, but to be honest, if you don't take your pets into consideration... I just hope if reincarnation does actually happen, I don't come back as one of your pets.
Yeah. It'd be better to be a feral cat or dog than to be a sterilized one at our house with regular, good quality food and sling beds so you don't have to sleep on the concrete floors. I thought that just the other day when I stopped on my way to work on the side of I-10 to try to capture a stray pitbull that was walking down the offramp toward 4 lanes of traffic. I thought, "Well you know, I don't sweat it if my snakes reach breeding age at 2 instead of 3 and it makes them live one or two years less. I let my cats go outside when they want because it makes them happy, even though it is very well documented that indoor-outdoor cats have shorter lifespans than indoor-only cats. I let my dogs off-leash (where it's legal) when we go camping and hiking in the mountains because they love it so much, even though I know that a hundred dogs get lost every year by owners who let their dogs off-leash. Sheesh. I don't take my pets into consideration. This dog who seems to have made its home in the embankment on the side of I-10 is probably better off if I leave it be." :rolleyes:

Duff said:
I must've missed that survey, cause I do care. And I don't need to be fun or sexy, as long as I'm doing right for myself, my family and my friends. And doing everything in my power to help my pets (read: also part of my family) reach their maximum life span is part of my responsibility by taking them under my care.
Uh huh. You care now, but you are now past the age at which reproducing will yield maximum benefit (just like you are past the age at which putting $100 a month into a retirement fund will yield maximum benefit). And in terms of the evolved human life history, you are nearing the end of the age of reproduction (just because men are physiologically able to reproduce for longer than women doesn't mean that they actually accomplish that at frequencies high enough to be meaningful in terms of selection--in most societies, they don't tend to). But I bet your actions when you were 16-25 weren't always consistent with caring most about your maximum lifespan. Maybe you're the exception to the general rule. But all of us people who smoke (I don't, but lots of people do), eat too much red meat or cheese and not enough vegetables, eat too much ice cream and not enough tofu, drink alcohol, ride motorcycles, and overfeed their pets (I don't, but millions of industrialized citizens have fat cats and dogs) all of us make decisions that are more about immediate gratification than they are about maximizing our/their lifespans. You value longevity over short-term gratification; I value short-term gratification (which I see as quality of life) over longevity, as long as the longevity reduction isn't drastic and isn't accompanied by a reduction in quality of life (like it will be if you let your pets be obese, because it's a lot less fun to play fetch when you're overweight). This is a philosophical choice, not a moral imperative.

So if I grow my snakes up faster than you because I think it's better to have a full belly than to live a year longer, you can't impeach my choice on ethical grounds. My opinion of what it best is simply different from yours (note that all my snakes are lean and healthy--none is the least bit overweight). I think maintenance diets are not in the best interests of the snakes. I think our pets should be allowed to grow on their own schedules (unless there's data to show that there are negative quality of life effects, like when Great Danes grow too fast and get bone spurs), not held back to ours. But hey, I know the snakes can survive on less food, and I know that if you're choosing something different for your snakes, they're not my snakes, and I know that not everyone shares my view, so as long as you're not STARVING your snake and seriously endangering its welfare and negatively impacting its quality of life, I don't get all high and mighty about it.
 
Duff said:
Just for the record, I never mentioned anything about the "Munson" plan, and it had absolutely nothing to do with my response. I don't see that plan as power feeding at all, so please stop assuming that I have a problem with it.

Now, having cleared that up, my issue is the clear agenda to have females up to breeding size by 2 years. IMO, that cannot be done without power feeding. Aggressive feeding is just a nicer way of saying it (again, IMO). And yes, I believe (notice, I said I believe, not it's a fact), that he is jeopardizing the long term health of his snakes by "aggressively" feeding them in the first 18 or so months to get them ready for breeding sooner. You do realize that to breed a snake at 2 years, they're actually more like 1 1/2 by the time they're put together and begin gestating fertile eggs. His stated goal is to be the first, so does not want to wait the extra year, which would be safer for any females. That's putting selfish reasons ahead of the long term well being of the animal, IMO.


It can be done without powerfeeding!

My '05 females were way over 300gram before they turned 2, and I'm more like a slowfeeder ;)
I feed one pinky every 5-7 days to the little ones, and the big girls get one adult mouse every 10-14 days, because I want to slow there growing rate and dont get to fat! (I just did read in don's book yesterday that it is prefered to feed a adult sized female once every 7 days because they need the energy).
They are over 450 gram now and are 2 years old, I didnt breed them this year cause it didnt feel right, but it is possible to get corns that big at that age without powerfeeding.

I know what fast growth can do to a young body, it can lead to heart failure (well, I know it happens with chicks in the food industry).

But anyway, nice corns!! :)
 
Since I first started keeping and breeding corns, I've heard and read about the potential dangers of "power feeding" as well as the "proper" weight and age to first breed female corns. Since then, I've noticed a slight shift, and I hate to say it, some hypocrisy, from some breeders. I remember a photograph that was posted, probably on this site, of a "power fed" corn snake. It had a small head and a large, plump body. I still see that look on some corn snakes. The look may not be as prominent on some, but the proportions of head size and body size are still not correct and still noticeable. Yes, the growth rate of any particular individual can and does vary, sometimes greatly. But if your snake starts to look out of proportion, you may want to slow down your feeding schedule for that particular snake. "Plans" are good as a guide, but sometimes, you have to alter your plans. Personally, I barely have time to weigh my snakes, let alone weigh their food as well, just to make sure they fit a plan. I also don't have time to feed more frequently than once a week, but I don't try to skimp on the meal size, even for my "for sale" hatchlings. I have a few females that are close to breeding size in both age and weight, but are still shy of 300 grams. Will I try to cram as much food as possible in them to get them up to weight in time to brumate them? No. They will be fed as normal. But if they make it in time for a later and/or shorter brumation, may give them a try, or not even brumate them at all, giving them even more time to reach a good size. Would I do this for a 2 year old female? No. And that is from experience. I've learned from my mistakes.

Oh, Nice Lavender Joe!
 
Duff said:
Now, having cleared that up, my issue is the clear agenda to have females up to breeding size by 2 years. IMO, that cannot be done without power feeding.
Without brumating, 90% of my corns are up to breeding size (300+ grams) within 18 months. Do you consider one appropriate sized meal every 7 days to be power feeding? That's my "magic formula". Sometimes I even get lazy and go 10-14 days a couple/three times a year. In fact once a male reaches 300 grams in my collection, they go on a 14 day feeding plan.

If a female is 300+ grams in October she is brumated. If she is at 300+ grams in March I attempt to breed her. Some accept the pairing, some don't, she decides. :shrugs:

D80

PS. The only regurges I've had, and few by number, have been by hatchlings and typically due to unrecognized stressors such as improper temperature.
 
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