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Building your own rack system
- Thread starter CAV
- Start date
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Tubs
Dayne,
Since your are a little further away than most, try the Rubbermaid page for sizing comparison. This will give you an idea of what were taking about:
#2221 for larger Corns (similar to 27 Qt Sterilite)
http://www.rubbermaid.com/hpd/consu...=HPCAT02&locationId=LOC00001&thirdMenuIndex=2
#2220 for smaller Corns (similar to 12 Qt Sterilite)
http://www.rubbermaid.com/hpd/consu...=HPCAT02&locationId=LOC00001&thirdMenuIndex=2
Dayne,
Since your are a little further away than most, try the Rubbermaid page for sizing comparison. This will give you an idea of what were taking about:
#2221 for larger Corns (similar to 27 Qt Sterilite)
http://www.rubbermaid.com/hpd/consu...=HPCAT02&locationId=LOC00001&thirdMenuIndex=2
#2220 for smaller Corns (similar to 12 Qt Sterilite)
http://www.rubbermaid.com/hpd/consu...=HPCAT02&locationId=LOC00001&thirdMenuIndex=2
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Heat tape installation
I run my tape vertically behind the center on each tub. This ensures that the heat is evenly distributed. You can run the tape horizontally across the back on each shelf, but will use 2-3x the amount of heat tape. This can get expensive at $2.50-4.00/ft! I would not recommend laying the tap on top of the shelf if you are using tubs. The bottom on the tub will sit directly on the tape and will slide across it each time it is removed. Eventually, the tape will be damaged by wear, and become unsafe for use.
The easiest installation method that I have found:
1) Save your money and don't buy the clips. They are prone to break contact and are difficult to install with out the 'required tool".
2) Lay the tape across the back on the unit and tack the edged to the shelf pieces using small brads. Ensure that the brads are entirely in the clear plastic area on the edge of the heat tape. DO NOT PUNCTURE THE SILVER OR BLACK HEAT ELEMENT. This creates a short potential and is a fire hazard.
3) Solder all connections. Quickly melt the plastic coating over the silver strip. Place the wire on the silver strip and apply solder. Once cooled, cover the exposed connectors with electrical tape to prevent accidental contact.
4) Lay the peg board on top of the tape and fasten with nails or screws. Make sure that you don't puncture the tape when attaching the backing.
This is actually very easy stuff to work with. If you intend on keeping a large collection, it is really the only cost effective heat source available.
I run my tape vertically behind the center on each tub. This ensures that the heat is evenly distributed. You can run the tape horizontally across the back on each shelf, but will use 2-3x the amount of heat tape. This can get expensive at $2.50-4.00/ft! I would not recommend laying the tap on top of the shelf if you are using tubs. The bottom on the tub will sit directly on the tape and will slide across it each time it is removed. Eventually, the tape will be damaged by wear, and become unsafe for use.
The easiest installation method that I have found:
1) Save your money and don't buy the clips. They are prone to break contact and are difficult to install with out the 'required tool".
2) Lay the tape across the back on the unit and tack the edged to the shelf pieces using small brads. Ensure that the brads are entirely in the clear plastic area on the edge of the heat tape. DO NOT PUNCTURE THE SILVER OR BLACK HEAT ELEMENT. This creates a short potential and is a fire hazard.
3) Solder all connections. Quickly melt the plastic coating over the silver strip. Place the wire on the silver strip and apply solder. Once cooled, cover the exposed connectors with electrical tape to prevent accidental contact.
4) Lay the peg board on top of the tape and fasten with nails or screws. Make sure that you don't puncture the tape when attaching the backing.
This is actually very easy stuff to work with. If you intend on keeping a large collection, it is really the only cost effective heat source available.
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Dayne,
Tub size:
The size really depends on how big the adult is. I have a couple of 2001s, some larger 2002s and all of my Graybanded Kings happily stored away in the larger tubs. The rest of my yearlings are in the smaller size. That is the majority of my collection. There will soon be two recently acquired adult Butters housed separately in 40 Gallon plastic tubs. I have decided to do this since I am not sure what sized enclosure the previous owner used.
Lid or no lid:
As for as the lids question, I do both. If you look back at the pictures, the tubs in the finished rack simply slide in without lids. This is the method I prefer. The temporary rack was built to accommodate the tubs with lids. I did this because the shelves are made out of rough, exterior grade plywood and I wasn't comfortable with the snakes rubbing against it.
A lesson learned:
If you have small neonates or yearlings, I would recommend using lids. They have an uncanny ability to squeeze out of very narrow openings. The rack without lids was designed and built with only a 1/8" gap between the tub and the bottom of the shelf. I under two days I had an escape (found several days later). To correct this, I simple placed a piece of cardboard on top of the tub, thus temporarily eliminating the gap. Again, this is only a concern with juvenile corns.
Tub size:
The size really depends on how big the adult is. I have a couple of 2001s, some larger 2002s and all of my Graybanded Kings happily stored away in the larger tubs. The rest of my yearlings are in the smaller size. That is the majority of my collection. There will soon be two recently acquired adult Butters housed separately in 40 Gallon plastic tubs. I have decided to do this since I am not sure what sized enclosure the previous owner used.
Lid or no lid:
As for as the lids question, I do both. If you look back at the pictures, the tubs in the finished rack simply slide in without lids. This is the method I prefer. The temporary rack was built to accommodate the tubs with lids. I did this because the shelves are made out of rough, exterior grade plywood and I wasn't comfortable with the snakes rubbing against it.
A lesson learned:
If you have small neonates or yearlings, I would recommend using lids. They have an uncanny ability to squeeze out of very narrow openings. The rack without lids was designed and built with only a 1/8" gap between the tub and the bottom of the shelf. I under two days I had an escape (found several days later). To correct this, I simple placed a piece of cardboard on top of the tub, thus temporarily eliminating the gap. Again, this is only a concern with juvenile corns.
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
I'm from the Government, and I'm here to help!
IMHO, the Helix is one of the best thermostats on the market. It is very reliable, easy to adjust, and easy to read from across the room. (It has a numeric reading that leaves little in doubt)
If you have a rack system, a thermostat (or at the very least a rheostat) is a must. It will allow you to set the temp and walk away. Here in Texas, it is hot enough in the summer to raise indoor temperatures above 82 degrees, even with the A/C cranked. Since I don't have the luxury of being at home throughout the day to adjust rheostats, a thermostat is my only choice.
The basic Helix unit can safely control 500 Watts of heating, roughly 60+ feet of 4" Flexwatt. That is enough tape to heat 2-4 rack systems similar in size to the one I described in this thread. If you do the math, that is enough rack space to easily house 30-60 adult sized corns. When you look at it in those terms, the price is not really that bad. I wouldn't recommend buying a Helix if you only have a single aquarium or tub to control.
I hope this info helps.
IMHO, the Helix is one of the best thermostats on the market. It is very reliable, easy to adjust, and easy to read from across the room. (It has a numeric reading that leaves little in doubt)
If you have a rack system, a thermostat (or at the very least a rheostat) is a must. It will allow you to set the temp and walk away. Here in Texas, it is hot enough in the summer to raise indoor temperatures above 82 degrees, even with the A/C cranked. Since I don't have the luxury of being at home throughout the day to adjust rheostats, a thermostat is my only choice.
The basic Helix unit can safely control 500 Watts of heating, roughly 60+ feet of 4" Flexwatt. That is enough tape to heat 2-4 rack systems similar in size to the one I described in this thread. If you do the math, that is enough rack space to easily house 30-60 adult sized corns. When you look at it in those terms, the price is not really that bad. I wouldn't recommend buying a Helix if you only have a single aquarium or tub to control.
I hope this info helps.
CAV, this entire thread has been of a great help! Now let's hope that my rack will turn out to resemble yours... and not something you'd find in a trash dump! Your snakes are really lucky to have a true craftsman in their presence... but I better not knock my boyfriend just yet, maybe he will be really good too! We'll see!
CowBoyWay
Cocked & Unlocked member
Racks and heating...
Other approaches to same problem of safe heat maintenence for Corn snake rack systems..
I'm taking the liberty of posting this "relative to this thread" verbatim quote/ post made last year by Rich Z. here at the CORNSNAKES.COM Forum...
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/sh...mperature+racks
I believe it was he, (Rich Z.) who has written, somewhere in this Forum, of how he has employed "dual redundant" safety set-up techniques in his snake rooms such as having a heater that will come on in the event the cooling were to fail to shut down, vica versa, other techniques,
such as Quality, "dual, wired in-line" thermostat(s) and/ or rheostat combinations, etc...
"fail safe" can be a very good thing, and something to consider if system failure is not an option.
Other approaches to same problem of safe heat maintenence for Corn snake rack systems..
I'm taking the liberty of posting this "relative to this thread" verbatim quote/ post made last year by Rich Z. here at the CORNSNAKES.COM Forum...
From this link.
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/sh...mperature+racks
I believe it was he, (Rich Z.) who has written, somewhere in this Forum, of how he has employed "dual redundant" safety set-up techniques in his snake rooms such as having a heater that will come on in the event the cooling were to fail to shut down, vica versa, other techniques,
such as Quality, "dual, wired in-line" thermostat(s) and/ or rheostat combinations, etc...
"fail safe" can be a very good thing, and something to consider if system failure is not an option.
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
CowBoyWay makes a good point
It you build a floor-to-ceiling rack system, I would definitely break the rack into zones that are separately controlled with a rheostat. The thermostat only reads the temp in one location. My racks are all less than 48" high and sit on the floor. This is the cool zone. The temp change from the bottom row to the top is only 1-2 degree, not a significant change. However, if the rack is floor to ceiling, the difference could be in excess of 5-10 degrees and would require additional control measures.
There is nothing wrong with a dual-protective system. Getting a high quality system will go along way to providing a safe environment for a collection. If some one is around the herp room throughout the day, a simple min/max thermometer with an alarm will suffice, and is much cheaper alternative than a second thermometer. Just a thought, there are really many solutions.
It you build a floor-to-ceiling rack system, I would definitely break the rack into zones that are separately controlled with a rheostat. The thermostat only reads the temp in one location. My racks are all less than 48" high and sit on the floor. This is the cool zone. The temp change from the bottom row to the top is only 1-2 degree, not a significant change. However, if the rack is floor to ceiling, the difference could be in excess of 5-10 degrees and would require additional control measures.
There is nothing wrong with a dual-protective system. Getting a high quality system will go along way to providing a safe environment for a collection. If some one is around the herp room throughout the day, a simple min/max thermometer with an alarm will suffice, and is much cheaper alternative than a second thermometer. Just a thought, there are really many solutions.
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Just an update
There have been more than a few threads on Rack systems lately. Thought I'd post evereything here in order to keep it all together:
Flexwatt info
Thermostat prode placement
More rack and heating ideas
Heat rope versus heat tape
There have been more than a few threads on Rack systems lately. Thought I'd post evereything here in order to keep it all together:
Flexwatt info
Thermostat prode placement
More rack and heating ideas
Heat rope versus heat tape
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
Thanks!
I wanted folks to understand how easy and inexpensive racks are to build. I personally have had much better results with racks than I did with glass enclosures. The snakes are more active, hide less, and have better sheds in the rack tubs. An added benefit is that you can keep multiple species if that catches your fancy.
I wanted folks to understand how easy and inexpensive racks are to build. I personally have had much better results with racks than I did with glass enclosures. The snakes are more active, hide less, and have better sheds in the rack tubs. An added benefit is that you can keep multiple species if that catches your fancy.
h0mersimps0n
New member
you keep your adult corns in those racks too? What size tubs do you use?
Amanda E
Snake Addict!
I had some questions regarding wiring flexwatt serially, here's the link to that post:
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14412
http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14412
CAV
Dazed and Cornfused
A low cost solution to housing multiple snakes
Since there have been so many post recently regarding the topic of finding housing for multiple corns, I felt it might be time to revisit the most inexpensive solution. Breeders and keepers of large collections house their animals in rack systems. Without a doubt, racks save $$ and space. They can be constructed for a fraction of the cost of glass tanks and ancillary components. Even if you don't want to house your snakes in tub for the long-term, it offers a temporary solution to "overcrowding".
As mentioned, all of the supplies needed to construct a rack can be found at any home improvement center or hardware store. The best feature of a rack system is that it can be customized to fit your needs, be it for 2 snakes, or 200.
If there are any questions regarding the actual construction of a rack, just ask. Glad to hear that the rack is working well for you, Amanda.
Since there have been so many post recently regarding the topic of finding housing for multiple corns, I felt it might be time to revisit the most inexpensive solution. Breeders and keepers of large collections house their animals in rack systems. Without a doubt, racks save $$ and space. They can be constructed for a fraction of the cost of glass tanks and ancillary components. Even if you don't want to house your snakes in tub for the long-term, it offers a temporary solution to "overcrowding".
As mentioned, all of the supplies needed to construct a rack can be found at any home improvement center or hardware store. The best feature of a rack system is that it can be customized to fit your needs, be it for 2 snakes, or 200.
If there are any questions regarding the actual construction of a rack, just ask. Glad to hear that the rack is working well for you, Amanda.