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ceramic heat discs

foghat said:
No need to apologize for anything. I am certainly no expert either. However, with the choice between no heat or too much heat, I'd take no heat (and no feeding) - given that we are talking short term here until the thermostat arrives.

Only way to tell if it will be too much heat is to take the temp at the glass above the uth.
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DollysMom said:
Thanks, foghat. The no feeding without heat is a really important point. The only goal here best possible care of our snake buddies that's an awesome uniting force.
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It absolutely warms the cockles of my heart to see a new member actually listening to advice from a more experienced member and not getting defensive or telling them they're wrong.

You are so correct, DollysMom, we are all here for the snakes and to ensure that they live a long and happy life and the owners know how to make that happen.

Good post.
 
I have a question. I see people post that their snakes are able to "learn" behaviors and such which makes sense. If you have a warm side of the viv, along with a cooler side wouldn't the snake know not to burn itself should it get too hot and move closer to the cooler side and vice versa?

It seems like we take a lot of precautions (although minor) to create this environment for them. I don't know, I just remember back in the day when the ranges were much wider for warmer and cooler instead of taking measures like thermostats, rheostats and such. The rule of thumb was to provide a warm area, a cool area to create a gradient, with plenty of hides in between.

Thoughts? I mean has anybody seen noticeable differences in behaviors with using thermostats over the years?

Don't temperatures in the wild naturally fluctuate beyond the ranges that we provide them?
 
OK thanks guys I ordered the thermostat and am just gunna run my old lights till it gets here. Thanks a lot for all of ur help and when everything is here I'll post a picture to be a show how helpful u guys were.
 
sn8kman1 said:
I have a question. I see people post that their snakes are able to "learn" behaviors and such which makes sense. If you have a warm side of the viv, along with a cooler side wouldn't the snake know not to burn itself should it get too hot and move closer to the cooler side and vice versa?

It seems like we take a lot of precautions (although minor) to create this environment for them. I don't know, I just remember back in the day when the ranges were much wider for warmer and cooler instead of taking measures like thermostats, rheostats and such. The rule of thumb was to provide a warm area, a cool area to create a gradient, with plenty of hides in between.

Thoughts? I mean has anybody seen noticeable differences in behaviors with using thermostats over the years?

Don't temperatures in the wild naturally fluctuate beyond the ranges that we provide them?
Click to expand...

I think this makes sense, the snake must be smart enough to move if it gets too hot. That said, I suspect in extreme cases, it could be the case the uth is way too hot and a burn could occur before the snake realizes it is too hot.

Here is a good post that basically concurs with what you are saying. But as he basically states, better safe than sorry - use a thermostat.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1655659
 
foghat said:
I think this makes sense, the snake must be smart enough to move if it gets too hot. That said, I suspect in extreme cases, it could be the case the uth is way too hot and a burn could occur before the snake realizes it is too hot.

Here is a good post that basically concurs with what you are saying. But as he basically states, better safe than sorry - use a thermostat.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1655659
Click to expand...

I don't use a thermostat because I maintain the temperature of my house accordingly...summer time A/C set to 75, winter time stays around 72. The warm side of the viv stays between 82-87 with the UTH.

I monitor it on a regular basis, but the ambient temperature is the main factor to begin with. I would think that a thermostat means the viv would be in constant fluctuation because it takes time for it to heat up and cool down
 
sn8kman1 said:
I don't use a thermostat because I maintain the temperature of my house accordingly...summer time A/C set to 75, winter time stays around 72. The warm side of the viv stays between 82-87 with the UTH.

I monitor it on a regular basis, but the ambient temperature is the main factor to begin with. I would think that a thermostat means the viv would be in constant fluctuation because it takes time for it to heat up and cool down
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Depends on the type of themostat. yes, with the hydro farm, the warm side does fluctuate over a range of about 5-6 degrees. If you get something like a herpstat, it should maintain a constant temperature.

My house is at about the same temp, I know my uth will get to well over 100 if left its own devices. The fact that yours stays at 82-87 is probably more a condition of the actual uth vs. the ambient temp.
 
UTH can get really hot. There have been several cases of serious neurological problems associated with too hot of temperatures. Even more cases of aggression that lead back to vivs being too hot. Corns don't tend to get burned but snakes like ball pythons do (not the brightest crayon in the box).

For corns belly heat is more important than air/ambient temperature. It helps with proper digestion. Keeping a UTH on a thermostat helps make sure temperatures are controlled. My vivs fluctuate very little through out the day because they are regulated in such a way.
 
sn8kman1 said:
I have a question. I see people post that their snakes are able to "learn" behaviors and such which makes sense. If you have a warm side of the viv, along with a cooler side wouldn't the snake know not to burn itself should it get too hot and move closer to the cooler side and vice versa?

Thoughts? I mean has anybody seen noticeable differences in behaviors with using thermostats over the years?

Don't temperatures in the wild naturally fluctuate beyond the ranges that we provide them?
Click to expand...

There are very few examples of corns being burned by UTHs, they do have the common sense to move when they are uncomfortable.

And yes about noticeable differences in behaviors, corns get CRANKY if they get too cold. They coil and strike and throw a hissy fit if they aren't warm enough. If I didn't use a thermostat I would use the UTH but decrease how much of the bottom it covers. I have had to do this a couple of times when I had to do a quick rescue, I would only cover maybe 1/5 of the bottom with a UTH and let the rest be hanging out from under the viv. This cuts down the area that would get really hot and still give a good gradient temp. I would rather keep the UTH on without a thermostat if I had to and lessen the amount of room it occupies than go cold, especially if the room is chilly.
 
DollysMom said:
I wish I could edit so I could just add this to what's I've aorewdy posted but I cant.
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Get a membership and you will be able to edit your heart out! It is only $25/year for PRICELESS information and some other perks. To keep this forum going $25 is a bargain.

DollysMom said:
Your snake is beautiful and the hide in the picture would make a very nice warm hide. You still need a cool hide and hides in between the two. Like smigon (who is very experienced and whose advice I really appreciate) said, the more hides, the better.
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Ohhh, you make me feel like a rockstar! Thanks for the ego boost! I am glad I can help. And what is funny is I still consider myself a newbie, only having been in the hobby 2 1/2 years. But I read everything I could, took all constructive criticism to heart and made the best choice for my corns when I was hearing differing opinions. I love to teach and help whenever I can, if I can make one corn snake's life a bit better and one keeper's job easier then I have succeeded.

-Michelle
 
smigon said:
Get a membership and you will be able to edit your heart out! It is only $25/year for PRICELESS information and some other perks. To keep this forum going $25 is a bargain.
Click to expand...

The way I type, I'm going to have to, lol.

Ohhh, you make me feel like a rockstar! Thanks for the ego boost! I am glad I can help. And what is funny is I still consider myself a newbie, only having been in the hobby 2 1/2 years. But I read everything I could, took all constructive criticism to heart and made the best choice for my corns when I was hearing differing opinions. I love to teach and help whenever I can, if I can make one corn snake's life a bit better and one keeper's job easier then I have succeeded.

-Michelle
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You have been a great help to me. Thanks!
 
Alright all set
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the for the help guys
 
No tape!

Your snake will manage to get stuck to it - especially that piece holding the cord.

Use either a hot glue gun or aquarium grade silicon. There are probably other options, but tap is not not one of them.
 
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