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cupboard viv conversion

heathster

heathster

CornSnakesAreAwesome :)
Hi all, im going to be converting this into a vivarium for my 5ft corn snake
screenshot2013012318571.png

I work in property maintenance, so the actual conversion bit ill be fine with.

Im just looking for some advice on the interior really, i know about using silicone sealant to make it water tight ect, but would i need to treat the wood or something first? Im planning to sand it all down, then varnish it, is there any specific varnish i can use that is reptile safe? Or is there another way of treating the interior?

Just if anyone needs to know, i will be ditching the drawers so it will be just ine viv with no drawers, and not including the legs, it measures 42"x18"x18" and it is made of solid dark oak :)
Its been in the family for a long time and dont want to get rid of it, but dont really like it as a cupboard, so 'tango' my corn snake is getting a nice new bigger home :)
 
Nice project! You'll want a durable waterproof varnish, probably something used for sealing wooden floors. At least a couple of weeks curing time before you use the new viv.
 
When my dad and I built a viv for my late bearded dragon, we used Kilz paint and primer on the inside of the cage. It has antimold/antifungus properties and can be cleaned by wiping down. It's commonly used for bathroom painting, I believe it is available in the UK.

Alternatively, a few coats of a clear polyurethane sealer would be good if you want to keep the look of the wood. Not sure about UK brand names though.
 
On the inside i want to paint it maybe?
So its abit lighter in there so less need for lighting, theres this thing called naturepaint in b&q
Is made from all natural materials, non toxic, no fumes ect. Would this be ok?
 
To be honest, the things that give off fumes are what makes paint durable. Personally I'd go for either a good quality durable gloss or an emulsion with several coats of polyurethane varnish to seal it. After it's cured for a week or so the fumes wouldn't be an issue.
The reason you want a good seal is because snake urates take a lot of scrubbing!
 
I have just been to my local pet store and hardware store, i am now going to be using satin finish white paint, airing it out, giving it a slight sand down to key the surface, then top coating it with animal safe wood protecting, water proof varnish, which is reptile safe, again in a satin finsh as to reduce glare from the lighting. Would have gone for matt finish but i think it would look too dull
 
What are peoples veiws on a completely removable door?
As it would be a full length one peice door so as not to interupt the veiw of my snake, i cant have it hinge down as it will touch the floor and dont want the risk my 1yr old daughter falling on it, cant have it hinge up as my beardie viv will be on top, and dont want it hinged sideways as it will protude 4 ft out into the room.
I am planning on using these syle clips, 3 at the top, 3 at the bottom and 2 either side, is this too many?
http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=190712682383&index=1&nav=SEARCH&nid=77511305583
The door itself will be made from a timber frame with plexi glass screwed to the inside of the fame, amd the whole thing will be recessed into the front of tbe vivarium so it sits flush with the front of the existing unit. Ill be doing it this way to eliminate any flex in the front and any chance of tango escaping.
What thickness of plexi would you recommend? 4 or 6mm?
Thanks again
Adam
 
If the door fits into the cupboard securely and latches tight, I don't see a problem. Perhaps having a lip that it rests against and can be clamped to.
 
Im going to be putting a lip at the bottom to hold the substrate in and one at the top to hide the lighting from view. So it will be pushed against these the clipped in place securely. This would be ok right?
 
Awesome!! Ive only moved recently, so the unit is in storage at the moment, ill go and get it out on monday and get cracking :) defo keep this updated with my progress.
Any tips at all about ventilation, like how many vents to out in? They will all be on the back.
Also, im going to be putting a peice of 4mm plexiglass in that will cover the whole floor, with the heat mat under the plexi, then will secure the plexi down with silicone sealant.
Is this a bad idea? I have no problems with removing the plexi and re sealing if i need to replace the heat mat.
That way tango cant burn himself on the mat and the aspen will go on top of the plexi
Adam
 
Hmm, is it heat-proof plexi? As long as it won't warp from the heat it should be alright. Make sure you have a few air vents where the heat mat goes on the floor so it doesn't overheat and cause problems. Perhaps put the plexi about a half inch or so above the heat mat and have a couple tiny holes drilled in the back and bottom of the cabinet there.

As for air vents, it depends on the size, but probably one every 5" or so would be good.
 
I can mount the plexi on blocks half inch higher and drill holes, that is a good idea.
Should the vents go high up, low down or in the middle on the back?
Adam
 
I've always put vents at the top so there's no draft, but I have no idea if that's the best thing or not.
 
Ill put 5 vents in each at equal intervals from th next, across the top at the back, plus the amall holes on the back at the bottom, to vent the heat mat area :)
 
Don't forget about your thermostat wire/probe when you are installing the heat mat. I wonder if it would be best to put that on top of the plexi or under it directly on top of the heat mat??
 
I was planning to put the probe above the plexi but under the substrate, this is right yeah?
Adam
 
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