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Hatchling won't eat. Help

Benzo48

New member
I have 4 hatchlings. They all shed saturday. I fed them sunday. 3 ate just fine. The most beautiful one with the most awesome pattern, will not eat. I tried Sunday to no avail. I waited until today, Ruesday. Still no luck. Any tips or info. Please help. I had no problems with my first clutch last year.
 
I've seen lots of advice about this on the forum. You can start by scenting the pinkie with tuna fish water. I have a 2009 that wouldn't eat unless I put a few drops of tuna juice on the pinkie. I keep some frozen in the freezer just in case I need it. I've read on here that people have scented pinkies with lizards, geckos, chicken... Do a search and you'll see a lot of ideas.
 
Main thing is: quit bothering him! :D

Wait one week between attempts for finicky eaters. Once they begin eating THEN offer every four-five days.
 
Don't despair. A lot of babies take a while to get started. A healthy hatchling can easily go a month without eating so there's no cause for worry at this point. Leave the baby alone between feedings, as Dave said. I wouldn't start scenting the mouse at this point. The goal is to get it eating, ideally unscented f/t mice. Scenting is certainly a great tool for coaxing stubborn babies to eat but it's not the first thing to try since it can be tough to wean some babies from scented prey.

How is the baby housed, and how are you offering prey? If it's on paper towel or newspaper substrate here's a suggestion that often succeeds. Next feeding day (which should be 2-3 days after the last attempt) try making sure the mouse is really hot and place it right beside the opening of the baby's favorite hide. Go away and don't peek for at least an hour; two hours is better. If the mouse hasn't been eaten, do another dip in hot water, cover the viv with something like a towel and leave it for two more hours or overnight.

Feeding in a small brown paper bag often works well, too. Close the bag with clothespins, paper clips, etc. - NOT TAPE. Be sure to place the bag in the viv so that if the snake gets out of the bag it's still safely contained.

I know how frustrating stubborn babies are - but I also know how great it is when they get going! You and your hatchling have time. Don't pester him between offerings, and let us know how it goes. We're pulling for you both.
 
Quick ideas:

1) House babies in separate enclosures.

2) Do not disturb/handle babies until they on a regular feeding schedule (have eaten 5 or 6 times).

3) House babies in small containers - like the size of a shoebox or smaller.

4) Do not subject snakes to bright lights.

5) Make sure snakes have hide areas.

6) Feed babies in the evening - do not watch them eat. Put the food into the cage and leave them alone until the following morning.

7) Make sure your reptiles are being maintained at the proper temperatures.

There are a whole lotta "tricks" like cup feeding, split heads, etc., but I generally don't resort to any of that until the snake has been kept in the above conditions for 2 or 3 weeks and has not eaten.

Also, do not attempt to feed your snake every day or even every other day. Allow at least 4 or 5 days between attempts when dealing with non-feeding babies.

Patience is key. I had a Russian Rat Snake that hatched on June 2. It ate it's first meal last night. Snakes are born/hatched with a ceratin amount of body fat that they can live off of for awhile.
 
Ah yes, one of the few "rules" of Corn keeping - it's always the one with the nicest pattern or colour that's a problem feeder!

Congrats on getting him to join in the fun.
 
Being patient is hard. I have 9 hatchlings, first feed, 2 ate. 2nd feed? 1 ate. Luckily it was one that had eaten before. I am waiting a week between all future attempts and looks like I may be up all nigh on feed nights. Glad your hold out ate. Maybe its a good sign for me :)
 
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