heating question

[JohnnyK]

Well John,
Sorry to say but that's a poor setup. You don't really have a clue what the temps are but you should. The idea is to have a set up with the ideal conditions and then... settle for a little off.
Your snake will be ""fine"" till there's an issue then it won't be fine.
It dosen't have a choice in the matter.

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something then. The specs on the heat pad say they increase that side of the tank by 5-10 degrees. If in the cold of winter (living in WI), if our house temps are 70-75 (never go above that), with that heat pad alone, that should then make the warmer side between 75-85 at any given point. We then have a 50 watt basking light which is on sometimes above the warm side, so add a few more degree there - the hot side has never gone above 88. I just don't see this critical need to monitor to a nth degree what that side is at; in the wild, I don't think snakes are critical within a few degree as to where they will hang-out - if one area is too hot, then they'll move slightly off of a hot-spot to where the temp meets their need; likewise, if it is too cool, then they'll move to where it is warmer. After feeding, both snakes always go into a hide on their warm side; so, they know where the warmth is and can adjust themselves according, no? Perhaps if we had an aspen bedding and the snake dug down and got to rest his body right on the glass bottom, then I could see some potential for burn issues, etc., but with our reptile carpet, that hasn't happened; perhaps worth noting.

 

[Lennycorn]

So...if I keep my house temps at 62 degrees and going by what the specs state the temp will only reach 72??????

All I know is that I have two zoo med uth running now on my snows setups. Both uth are regulated and I'm reading a temp just now at 83.5 on the warm side under the aspen and barely warm to the human touch. I would think that without being regulated that the time could reach temps much higher than in the range that is needed. You state the temps are 88 degrees but without using a good instrument to measure the temps who knows what you're levels are at. A digital thermometer with a probe is a better type than the one I think is being used. And I would think that reptile carpet isn't much of a insulator. But if so..my how much?? Five or ten degrees?


As for the 50 watt basking light.... corns are not know to need a basking light. Some folks use lights to supplement the heat but I think this route is hard to regulate so prove worthless to me.

 

[bitsy]

in the wild, I don't think snakes are critical within a few degree as to where they will hang-out - if one area is too hot, then they'll move slightly off of a hot-spot to where the temp meets their need; likewise, if it is too cool, then they'll move to where it is warmer.

In the wild, they have unlimited choices about where to find the best temperature. They can just keep moving until they find it. They're very restricted in captivity - if we don't get it right, they have no option but to live with what we choose. We can't replicate the range of choices they'd have in the wild.

 

[ratsnakehaven]

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding something then. The specs on the heat pad say they increase that side of the tank by 5-10 degrees. If in the cold of winter (living in WI), if our house temps are 70-75 (never go above that), with that heat pad alone, that should then make the warmer side between 75-85 at any given point. We then have a 50 watt basking light which is on sometimes above the warm side, so add a few more degree there - the hot side has never gone above 88. I just don't see this critical need to monitor to a nth degree what that side is at; in the wild, I don't think snakes are critical within a few degree as to where they will hang-out - if one area is too hot, then they'll move slightly off of a hot-spot to where the temp meets their need; likewise, if it is too cool, then they'll move to where it is warmer. After feeding, both snakes always go into a hide on their warm side; so, they know where the warmth is and can adjust themselves according, no? Perhaps if we had an aspen bedding and the snake dug down and got to rest his body right on the glass bottom, then I could see some potential for burn issues, etc., but with our reptile carpet, that hasn't happened; perhaps worth noting.

Pretty well said, but I'd consider a couple things. I don't think you need a basking lamp. For one thing corns rarely bask, as far as I know, and it doesn't sound like you need any extra heat. The other thing is your warm side sounds pretty good as long as you are getting accurate temps. You probably check those, so know what they are. The UTH's you're using sound like they might be the kind that don't need a regulator. The ones I use have a pretty weak top temperature also and don't need a regulator; but I monitor them very closely to be sure. Folks who use stronger heat mats need some regulation of conditions, because their UTH can get way too hot.

Hope this helps....Terry

 

[Lennycorn]

I just Google Zoo med heating pad and click on this link.
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/heat-pads-heat-panels-heat-cable-and-rocks/


Basically it states this on all of the size that they sell.

"Made of heavy bonded vinyl, these heaters operate at 20 degrees above room temperature, ensuring a safe climate for reptiles. Protected by a thermal cut out in case of overheating, under tank heaters will not burn or shock."

Now like I said I have to of these running now and I looked, but I can't figure now it "cut's out in case of overheating". Can anyone help explain this to me?

 

[JohnnyK]

Pretty well said, but I'd consider a couple things. I don't think you need a basking lamp. For one thing corns rarely bask, as far as I know, and it doesn't sound like you need any extra heat. The other thing is your warm side sounds pretty good as long as you are getting accurate temps. You probably check those, so know what they are. The UTH's you're using sound like they might be the kind that don't need a regulator. The ones I use have a pretty weak top temperature also and don't need a regulator; but I monitor them very closely to be sure. Folks who use stronger heat mats need some regulation of conditions, because their UTH can get way too hot.

Hope this helps....Terry

Good point Terry; I should have clarified, but yes, the zoo med UTH I use (according to the zoo med specs) only increase the tank temps by 5-10 degrees, nothing more.

Here are the ones I have under each tank, medium sized for 30-40 gal tanks:

http://www.zoomed.com/db/products/E...iO3M6MToiMCI7czo4OiJTZWFyY2hfeSI7czoxOiIwIjt9

Also, I would think if one saw their corn always staying on the warm side, one should conclude that their tank in general, esp. on the "cooler" side is too cold. Likewise, if the snake never goes on the warm side, well, I'd figure then the "warm" side is too hot. Our snakes don't do either of those things, combined with my checking on the temps near ground level, things seem fine.

The basking lamp is more for our viewing pleasure, thus, I only use a 50 watt bulb and this is for a 40 gal. tank; so the heat can dissipate easily with that size, say vs. putting a 50 or 100 watt on a 5 or 10 gal tank. I don't think it hurts with the snake taking in some rays "so to speak" - neither is afraid of coming out if the lamp is one; although again, I don't leave them on all the time.

I appreciate the input from all; I may look into a more accurate temp gauge to really verify the consistency in my tanks though.

 

[ratsnakehaven]

Also, I would think if one saw their corn always staying on the warm side, one should conclude that their tank in general, esp. on the "cooler" side is too cold. Likewise, if the snake never goes on the warm side, well, I'd figure then the "warm" side is too hot. Our snakes don't do either of those things, combined with my checking on the temps near ground level, things seem fine.

Right. Behavior can tell us a lot. There's no substitute for knowing the actual temps though, especially when discussing things here. I had to check all my temps, so I could explain in detail when necessary.

The basking lamp is more for our viewing pleasure, thus, I only use a 50 watt bulb and this is for a 40 gal. tank; so the heat can dissipate easily with that size, say vs. putting a 50 or 100 watt on a 5 or 10 gal tank. I don't think it hurts with the snake taking in some rays "so to speak" - neither is afraid of coming out if the lamp is one; although again, I don't leave them on all the time.

I can understand that. As long as it's not affecting the temps much, I doubt it will matter to the snakes. I might switch to a 40 watt, or lower, even. Maybe you could even use a colored light?

I appreciate the input from all; I may look into a more accurate temp gauge to really verify the consistency in my tanks though.

We like to help...

I use a gage that checks temps and humidity at the same time and has an extension probe that you can put anyplace in the viv, which then runs back to the gage.

Good luck....TC

 

[ratsnakehaven]

I just Google Zoo med heating pad and click on this link.
http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/heat-pads-heat-panels-heat-cable-and-rocks/


Basically it states this on all of the size that they sell.

"Made of heavy bonded vinyl, these heaters operate at 20 degrees above room temperature, ensuring a safe climate for reptiles. Protected by a thermal cut out in case of overheating, under tank heaters will not burn or shock."

Now like I said I have to of these running now and I looked, but I can't figure now it "cut's out in case of overheating". Can anyone help explain this to me?

I think the cutout they're referring to might have to do with the regulator, in your case, I think a thermostat?

They're also saying the pad runs about 20 degrees above the room temp, meaning that the temp in the cage will change according to the changes in your room temp. Therefore, you really need a regulator with this type heater. If your room temp is 75*, then the warm end of the cage would be about 95*F. That would be way too high, right? Good thing you regulate your temps.

Terry :spinner:

 

[Lennycorn]

Thanks for the reply but... I use the same style as I posted and I just can't see ""the regulator"" on my unit or how it can determine the temp in the room.

It just looks like a wire going into a heating pad.
I also use flex-watt so this is what I thinking it is.

Oh well....

 

[ratsnakehaven]

All I know is that I have two zoo med uth running now on my snows setups. Both uth are regulated and I'm reading a temp just now at 83.5 on the warm side under the aspen and barely warm to the human touch. I would think that without being regulated that the time could reach temps much higher than in the range that is needed. You state the temps are 88 degrees but without using a good instrument to measure the temps who knows what you're levels are at. A digital thermometer with a probe is a better type than the one I think is being used. And I would think that reptile carpet isn't much of a insulator. But if so..my how much?? Five or ten degrees?

Lenny, it sounded to me like you have regulators with your Zoo Meds, and your temps are 83.5*F. over the UTH's. So when you say, "I use the same style as I posted and I just can't see ""the regulator"" on my unit or how it can determine the temp in the room," I don't really understand the problem.

TC :shrugs:

 

[JohnnyK]

Has anyone ever used this item for quick temp checks?

http://www.proexotics.com/store/product.php?productid=16211&cat=248&page=1

Or, any other recommendations - I rather not mount anything in their tanks, so something that I can use easily to do check with would be preferred.

 

[ratsnakehaven]

Has anyone ever used this item for quick temp checks?

http://www.proexotics.com/store/product.php?productid=16211&cat=248&page=1

Or, any other recommendations - I rather not mount anything in their tanks, so something that I can use easily to do check with would be preferred.

A lot of the guys I go road cruising with use those to check the road temps or temperatures on rock surfaces, etc. I'm sure it would work in your cage, but you could probably just use a regular thermometer. I use a gadget that reads both temp and humidity and has a probe attachment that I can just lower into the tank.

TC

 

[serpentservant]

Wow..thx for all the replies. I lowered the temp on my thermostat to 85 degrees, just incase he does decide to burrow,.. hes pretty much used to the cage and has np moving around, i had him for alittle over a month and a half now, hes alittle over 5 months old, 22 inchs long and weighs 25g, just incase you where wondering, have him in a 10 gallon cool side is never a problem, always at 74-76 degrees....So obviously snakes do get burned from the pics lenny posted.. i think maybe he just didnt decide to burrow because i had the top layer right at 85 and felt warm enough right on top of the substrat and didnt have a need to burrow but for some reason he did decide to burrow he'd definately get burned ..so im playing it safe and im sure he'll find out, when i feed him and wants to digest he'll burrow...thx everyone

 

[JohnnyK]

A lot of the guys I go road cruising with use those to check the road temps or temperatures on rock surfaces, etc. I'm sure it would work in your cage, but you could probably just use a regular thermometer. I use a gadget that reads both temp and humidity and has a probe attachment that I can just lower into the tank.

TC

I just did one of my random checks by placing my thermometer right on the surface of my reptile carpet above the heat pad and it came in between 85-87 degrees. Cooler side was perfect as well. I've just always done random checks like this to get what I viewed as an accurate reading. I know some install a thermometer higher up in the tank on the back or something, but I always felt one should rest the thermometer right on the surface above the heat pad in order to get a more exact reading of what the snake will feel when above the pad.

 

[ratsnakehaven]

Sounds good. Happy Holidays... :santa:

 

[JohnnyK]

Sounds good. Happy Holidays... :santa:

Same to you! And thanks for your replies on these boards.

 

[WingedSweetheart]

I'd like to add that I have 3 Zoomed UTHs. One on a 10 gallon, 20 gallon, and a 40 gallon. I have them all on rheostats. I have the 40 gallon and 20 gallon on a fish stand (open bottoms) and the 10 gallon on a shelf (not much air flow). With all the rheostats turned down as far as possible the 40 gallon reads 108 degrees and the 10 gallon 104 degrees. I normally just turn those two off. However the 20 gallon tank on the bottom of the fish stand with the rheostat on the lowest setting reads 85 degrees. I think it is cool only because it is close to the wood floor and our floors are very cold!

I have tried to see how hot the UTH would get without being controlled and it was well over 200 degrees when I finally turned it off (no snake in tank of course). So just because it doesn't feel hot to the touch doesn't mean it isn't. Before I got prob thermometers I had no idea my UTH could get that hot. At that time my snake never burrowed and rarely went to the warm side. I now know why.

 

[Allalaskan]

I just went all over town looking for a "thermostat" not realizing I needed a rheostat :headbang: So, what I ended up doing was I picked up a Dimmer switch a cheep extension cord and a plastic box to mount the switch in. I spliced the extension cord and ran it into the box and then hooked up the dimmer switch and taped the box to keep the wires from trying to be pulled out. I then plugged that into the wall and then plugged my heating pad into that. I am now trying to get the proper setting with it to maintain 85f. Yesterday it jumped up to 110f and was climbing when I noticed it (scared me to death!) So I unplugged it and used a heat lamp to keep it at 85 till today when I could get something rigged up. Later on when I have some more money (christmas broke me lol) I will see about getting a rheostat.

THat said, where do you guys get yours at online or local?

 

[Lennycorn]

Allalaskan check out this thread. It was in the DIY forum.

http://www.cornsnakes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19168

 

[Ronzie]

I always thought that with an under tank heater they would get burned on it if they burrowed under the aspen bedding.
I just cut a piece of reptile carpet to fit in the warm end. Then I have a couple of rocks along the seam so they can't burrow under it. They both have lots of burrowing room on either side of the rocks.

I've never been in need for any type of thermostat or rheostat.
My tanks are at a constant 72* cool end and 85-86* warm end. Yes, the temps are right on.