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I'm new and ready to learn!

If you haven't already, you may want to pick up a scale that can measure grams to get an idea how much you should be feeding. Snakes are opportunistic feeders and will overeat if you offer more good even if they don't need it.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 
Gusku said:
I used tongs to offer the pinky and it only took seconds for him to take it! WOW!!! After I post pics, I am wondering if I should feed two.
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I almost forgot. CONGRATULATIONS on a successful feeding! That's awesome!:dancer:
 
Sheyoni said:
If you haven't already, you may want to pick up a scale that can measure grams to get an idea how much you should be feeding. Snakes are opportunistic feeders and will overeat if you offer more good even if they don't need it.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I use my digital postal scale to measure my snake's weight, but it didn't measure in .1 grams for comparing small pinks. For less than $9 I got this little scale and it's perfect for weighing and sorting pinkies and fuzzies.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002SC3LLS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00
 
this is the belly shot

I know it is in a bit of a shadow this time, but a much clearer picture than the last one.
 

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this is the neck pic

This si the best head shot I heave! Say hi Rick! People are here to meet you!
 

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Gusku said:
how long do I need to worry about regurgitation?
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There's no pat answer to that in my opinion.

Until that meal is fully digested. 2 to 4 days normally. Poop is a good sign as is a slim belly, but sadly not definitive since the poop can be from a prior meal. You need to be concerned (not worried) the closer to the meal you are or if temps have fluctuated widely (a couple of degrees is not a concern), or if there has been some other stressor. That's why most of us leave our snakes completely alone for 48 hours to 72 hours after feeding. All I do during that time is pick up spots of poop and change water.
 
Gusku said:
This si the best head shot I heave! Say hi Rick! People are here to meet you!
Click to expand...

The eroded head pattern and the tearing of his saddles (as well as his lightened coloration) make me think he is possibly a normal masque.
 
Just curious, what does that mean is different in his coloration as an adult? And what do you breed together to achieve that morph? Is it rare? ;-)
 
Masque is an incomplete dominant gene (so it only needs one copy to express partially) that alters the pattern and can give the snake a hypo-ish appearance. In most masque corns, the belly checkers may be split, the head pattern somewhat eroded, and there may be some odd tears in the saddles and slight blurring of side pattern as well as thinner saddle borders. With two copies of the gene, the effects are exaggerated, often wiping the belly clean of checkers, heavily blurring the sides, and removing all of the head pattern except for two small spots. It's highly variable and often mistaken for poorly expressed diffused (sometimes called bloodred), which is a recessive gene.

Can you post a photo of your snake's belly?

(e) My fire is a super masque. You can see how his head pattern is reduced to almost nothing.
 

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I don't have any clear pictures of his belly, but I can describe it. It is very pale, the orange "checkers" Are also hard to see. They are also not uniform at all. They are very scattered and there is a small amount of them. They are completely non existent near the end of the tail.
 
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