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need feeding help!!!!

Corns don't need UV as they aren't a basking reptile.

I'd recommend getting a thermostat to keep the heat pad cool enough, a good thermometer so you know how hot it is, and then leaving the lights off. The thermostat will mean you don't have to guess at whether it's hot enough or not. Bear in mind that "hot" for a Corn snake is below human core body temperature, so their "hot" will feel "cool" or "lukewarm" to you.

I'd put the humid hide on the cool side as well. If the wrinkly snake is overheating, it won't help if it's forced to sit in a hide that's too hot.

You've been misinformed about keeping two Corns together. It actually carries many risks and you shouldn't really attempt it unless you understand what they are and can deal with them (and the consequences if things go wrong). You can keep Corns in plastic tubs if you need a quick cheap alternative.
 
o dang i wish someone that knew what they were talking about freakin sold them to me.

so leave the lights off all together? where do i get a thermostat for the heating pad at?

sooo now i dont know what to do! i have them both in a 30 gallon tank so i now need to separate them and get another tank for one, OK that makes me so mad that everyone was telling me it ok to put them together. ugh
 
neiman07 said:
o dang i wish someone that knew what they were talking about freakin sold them to me.

so leave the lights off all together? where do i get a thermostat for the heating pad at?

sooo now i dont know what to do! i have them both in a 30 gallon tank so i now need to separate them and get another tank for one, OK that makes me so mad that everyone was telling me it ok to put them together. ugh
Click to expand...

People get told that all the time, It's not your fault. Please just seperate them. If one of your snakes gets sick gets mites or regurges a meal, you won't know what one it is and have to treat them both, not to mention stress. Also, Here is some thermostats to try. You will also need a digital thermometer for a temp reading above your UTH, I can't remember if you said you had one or not.

http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/reptile-supplies/thermometers-thermostats-and-timers/-/zoo-med-500r-thermostat-with-probe/
I have used that one for over a year and am happy with it.

If you have more to spend on it try one of these below...
http://www.spyderrobotics.com/
BTW there is also a thread on here someplace with pics on what can happen when you cohab any type of snake, I just can't find it right now.
 
I get so mad that people sell corn snakes and say you can keep them together. It isn't fair to the snakes or the owners.

I'm so sorry that you got misinformed. I promise you that keeping the snakes separate will be easier for you.

For baby corns (up to 2 feet) here is my set up:
d817e85b.jpg


Not pretty, I know. But it works until you can buy another nice home. Corns also love the tight space. I think it makes them feel more secure and less stressed.

Here is a pic of an individual home:
3f1384bd.jpg


They like small hides that they fit tightly into, and they love those water dishes because they can hide underneath them.

These are plastic shoe boxes, they cost $1 most places. I drilled holes in them for air. SMALL holes, so the snake can't fit its head into the hole.

I use binder clips to hold the lids secure. Or, you can spend $2.50 and buy latching shoe boxes. The baby snakes will escape if you don't clip the lids on.

I would recommend putting one or both of them into shoeboxes until you get another tank. Of course, I keep my adults in bigger plastic containers- but that isn't as pretty.

35a1aa73.jpg


Get a probe thermometer ASAP. $7-10 usually. Put the probe at the bottom of the container, right above the heat. This is the hottest place the snake can get to. That spot can't be above 85°.

Until you get a probe thermometer, I would put something (like a thick towel or ceramic tile) between the UTH and the snakes. Or, just leave the heat off.

You are probably wondering how you are going to heat two homes with 1 UTH.
Stick the UTH BETWEEN the two homes, touching both sides. This will be fine. If you do this, put the probe thermometer at the hottest point in the containers.

Your snakes will grow, and you will eventually need at least two 20 gallon longs, or two 41 quart plastic containers.

If I were you, I would sell the 30 gallon and just save up for two separate adult-sized tanks.

Thank goodness you found this site. I hope your babies start to do better!!

Feel free to message me directly if you need any more help.
 
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o dang i wish someone that knew what they were talking about freakin sold them to me.
Click to expand...
Honestly, you're doing your best with the info you were given - it's absolutely not your fault.

There are other views on keeping two Corns together, but the general view on this board is that you shouldn't and it's definitely unfair on a new keeper to not have the full pros and cons explained.

You've had some great advice above and it's hugely to your credit that you're asking questions and accepting advice - especially when you've already gone to so much trouble to try and get the setup right for your babes.
 
another question, my husband was the one who picked out the albino one (pepper) and yesterday was the first day i took him out and looked it over. I have never seen a snake like it it is very very skinny, you can see it breath though out its body, you can see large red/brown clumps in his body (i dont know if it is cause its albino but it didnt look good), and his tail is sickly looking it goes from being about maybe 1/4 in and stops then to a long skinny point. It doesnt taper like our other one (patches).

Patches looks very healthy and strong compared to this other one. Im worried that its really sick cause my husband just bought it cause it was different and beautiful.

SO do you think it would be wrong to take it back? i dont want it getting my other one sick! and then we can learn more about raising patches and someday get another one?! I just feel like we got in over our head, that we should have started with only one!

Also what is a UTH?

Also we went to get a hydrometer/thermometer last night and put it on the cool side the temo on the cool side is 72 and the humidity is 50 % right now! so is that good?

thank you all for helping me sooo very much
 
It's OK to see brown/red patches inside a lighter coloured Corn - these are its organs or food passing through the digestive system. They're usually visible through the belly only though. If you can see things like this through its body, then I'd be worried.

The "whole body" breathing might just be a new arrival showing signs of fear when it's picked up, but if you can see it doing that when it's resting and you're not handling it, then that might be a sign of trouble.

Young Corns can be very skinny and they grow at different rates, so comparing the two might not be giving you a good idea of whether the new one is sick. However, if they're the same age and there's a significant difference, then that might be an indicator of a problem.

If you could post some photos of each of the snakes, that would really give us a better idea of what you're seeing.

However, if you're at all worried by the new snake then I'd take it back if you can -especially if you now feel that getting it might have been a bit of a mistake.

A UTH is an "undertank heater" or heat mat.

The cool side temp is OK but the warm side is going to be the factor that causes problems if it's too high. If the cool side is too cool, then the snake can just move to a part of the tank that's warmer. However, if the warm area is too warm, then the snake has nowhere to go that's the right temperature and it can get sick.
 
ok ill try to take some pics of them and post them on here.

i can see it in its belly and towards the tail always and a little by its head! if im good enough today ill snap a photo.

ill get the warm temp in a min and see what that is!

also is there a way to make it so the heating pad doesnt get so hot cause yesterday i put a thermometer right on the glass above the uth (not over the shavings but on bare glass) and it was high high high 118* so we turned that off cause OUCH! but what can i do cause we are goign to have the AC on soon in the house and i dont want it to get to chilly in there. we use to have the UTH on the side of the tank but i didnt know if it was getting warm enough, do you think we should put it back to the side again?
 
Yes, you need to use a thermostat with the heat pad. That will prevent it overheating, which may be causing some of the problems you're seeing. The floor needs to be around 85.
 
neiman07 said:
ok ill try to take some pics of them and post them on here.

i can see it in its belly and towards the tail always and a little by its head! if im good enough today ill snap a photo.

ill get the warm temp in a min and see what that is!

also is there a way to make it so the heating pad doesnt get so hot cause yesterday i put a thermometer right on the glass above the uth (not over the shavings but on bare glass) and it was high high high 118* so we turned that off cause OUCH! but what can i do cause we are goign to have the AC on soon in the house and i dont want it to get to chilly in there. we use to have the UTH on the side of the tank but i didnt know if it was getting warm enough, do you think we should put it back to the side again?
Click to expand...

This post confused me a little. Do you have the UTH on the side of the tank? Or do you mean you have it under the tank on one side? Because a UTH needs to be under the tank (on the bottom). I know that the ones I bought came with instructions saying you could put them on the side but that seemed kind of stupid to me. I have no idea why they put that in there.
 
we did have it on the side at one time, it is now underneath because it felt warmer on the bottom. But now that i think about it, it was probably the right temp on the side of the tank it felt cooler when i had it on the side.

also where do i get a thermostat for my heating pad i explained it to the people at pet-co and they had no idea what i was talking about!
 
Heat placement is variable, depending on who you ask. I know breeders who say "heat is heat" & that side heat is just fine. I lean toward this method of thinking & I know plenty of people that have radiant heat panels along the back of a stack of cages.
 
I think with it on the side it defeats the purpose of being a UTH. Plus if corns need belly heat how are they gonna get it with it being up on the side of the tank?

Anyway either way you put it you still need something to control the temp. If your snake leans up against the glass it will be instant contact with a very hot source. Which means burnt snake.

You can find rheostats or thermostats all over the internet if your pet store doesn't have any. Just google it. I got mine from amazon.com. Some people use light dimmers you can get a Walmart.

I shop around on bigappleherp.com a lot and if I see something I like and think the price is too high I go over to amazon and type in the name of the product to see if I can get it cheaper. If not I try ebay or just google the product and a list of stores that sell it will pop up.

There are tons of reptile supply stores online. Google is your friend! :D
 
Oh and forgot to add that I use zoomed rheostats but I don't think they keep the big mats cool enough (the mats for 30-40 gal tanks). So I have to put a tile over the glass where the mat is. I'm going to replace them with something different so I don't highly recommend them.
 
UTH is one way of heating, but it's not the only way to heat. I think it's more of a brand/style that just became a common term. The radiant heat panels are made to go along the side or the back.
I know for a fact that they don't absolutely "need" belly heat to digest. Even proper ambient heat will allow them to digest properly.

I agree that regardless of your heat source, you need a thermostat to regulate it.
 
I know plenty of people that have radiant heat panels along the back of a stack of cages
Click to expand...
Bear in mind that a UTH *isn't* a radiant heat panel though. The "U" in UTH stands for "Under" for a very good reason.

Unlike a radiant heat panel, a UTH is designed to heat the floor surface and NOT the air above it. The snake will only benefit from a UTH if it can be in contact with the surface that the UTH is heating - which seems unlikely if it's mounted on a wall.

I agree that a UTH isn't the only way to go and that overhead heat sources and heated rooms can be fine for Corns. However, if you have a UTH it will only work as the manufacturer intends it, if it goes under the tank, as the name suggests.

In this instance, the OP already has a UTH, which if used properly (under the tank and with a thermostat) will be just right for the setup. Not much point muddying the waters with other heat sources when a) the OP doesn't have them and b) they don't need them.
 
so im going to find and buy myself a thermostat today online.. i have been using the lights we have to keep it warm right now sense we dont have the heating pad on.. but thats not workig to well it says it only 72 in there so im going to have to take the lid off and get the light closer in, but just out of its reach so it doesnt get burned!

thanks you guys have helped me so much.
 
I can promise that if you take the lid off, the snake will get out. Doesn't matter how tiny the snake looks and how high the tank walls look. Leave it as is until the thermostat arrives - it'll only be a few days.
 
A snake can survive no extra heat for a few days.

These are the tubs I keep my snakes in:

f2647122.png


I had a 2 foot snake in the 56 Quart size. With the lid on. The snake escaped three times. I didn't find her the third time.

The container is 13 inches high.

I just watched my male snake, Kanti (who is going crazy because of the breeding season) climb up the side of a glass aquarium easy as pie yesterday.

Just a friendly warning.
 
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