New Baby Corn...Sick or Scared?

[enl0001]

He lives in Alabama it is likely he doesn't need heat, most of the time. Besides a UTH in the normal heat or anytime requires thermostat or very close monitoring, a way to control the heat... For one snake a light i.e. red light is easy and allows one to see their snake when it is active, without disturbing the snake. Turn the light off when heat or viewing isn't required. I am basing this on having a few very healthy snakes raised with a red light and monitoring temps.

I talked to my vet and they recommended not get a UTH because they see so many snakes come in from burns....I'm guessing it's more common for snakes to burn in Alabama since people may give them more heat than needed.
I did, however, buy a red light recently and it seems to be working great
I use a normal light during the day and I turn it off for a couple hours every day and let the room cool off, then turn it on the red one for night, later. Seems to be working great so far!

 

[bitsy]

UTHs only get hot enough to burn if they're unregulated. I'd always recommend controlling them with a thermostat, then they're safe.

 

[Caryl]

I talked to my vet and they recommended not get a UTH because they see so many snakes come in from burns....I'm guessing it's more common for snakes to burn in Alabama since people may give them more heat than needed.
I did, however, buy a red light recently and it seems to be working great
I use a normal light during the day and I turn it off for a couple hours every day and let the room cool off, then turn it on the red one for night, later. Seems to be working great so far!

First, welcome to the hobby. It sounds like you're off to a great and caring beginning with your little guy.

I live on the Mississippi coast and it's hot here too. I have to say, I'd question the level of husbandry knowledge of any vet who recommends against a UTH for a corn snake. NOTE: this is NOT a criticism of your vet's medical knowledge. Vets learn how to diagnose and treat dozens of species in vet school; they seldom learn details of husbandry for all of these, particularly if they're not often treating that species.

Colubrids, including corn snakes, need belly heat for proper digestion, and that's best provided by a UTH. "Hot rocks" or other heat sources INSIDE the viv are indeed a bad idea and can cause burns, but a UTH with a thermostat or rheostat is the healthiest choice for your pet.

On to the point about summer temps and the need for heat at all. I have several vivs that are unheated now except for occasional cooler nights. Doing this is a viable choice, but it does mean extra vigilance to make certain that the temps don't get out of line. Native wild corns are adapted to your area, and moderated ambient temperatures are fine for them and for yours. Obviously you don't want him to get overheated, which is more likely indoors than out and much more dangerous than lower temps unless he's digesting. Air temps in the 78-85 F range during the day are fine.

Hope that helps. Enjoy, and welcome again!

 

[enl0001]

First, welcome to the hobby. It sounds like you're off to a great and caring beginning with your little guy.

I live on the Mississippi coast and it's hot here too. I have to say, I'd question the level of husbandry knowledge of any vet who recommends against a UTH for a corn snake. NOTE: this is NOT a criticism of your vet's medical knowledge. Vets learn how to diagnose and treat dozens of species in vet school; they seldom learn details of husbandry for all of these, particularly if they're not often treating that species.

Colubrids, including corn snakes, need belly heat for proper digestion, and that's best provided by a UTH. "Hot rocks" or other heat sources INSIDE the viv are indeed a bad idea and can cause burns, but a UTH with a thermostat or rheostat is the healthiest choice for your pet.

On to the point about summer temps and the need for heat at all. I have several vivs that are unheated now except for occasional cooler nights. Doing this is a viable choice, but it does mean extra vigilance to make certain that the temps don't get out of line. Native wild corns are adapted to your area, and moderated ambient temperatures are fine for them and for yours. Obviously you don't want him to get overheated, which is more likely indoors than out and much more dangerous than lower temps unless he's digesting. Air temps in the 78-85 F range during the day are fine.

Hope that helps. Enjoy, and welcome again!

I fed my baby for the first time the night before yesterday, and I currently do not have a UTH. I do have a tree structure set up right under the light in her viv, and I noticed that she crawled up on the tree and stayed there all night and day, and part of the next night. I understand that she is using the heat of the tree to put her belly against and digest her food.
Is that not enough?
THanks for your help

 

[Caryl]

I fed my baby for the first time the night before yesterday, and I currently do not have a UTH. I do have a tree structure set up right under the light in her viv, and I noticed that she crawled up on the tree and stayed there all night and day, and part of the next night. I understand that she is using the heat of the tree to put her belly against and digest her food.
Is that not enough?
THanks for your help

Yes, that's what she's doing. It may well be "enough" for her, especially while she's small. As she grows it's going to be harder for her to get sufficient heat for digestion that way. There's also the fact that corns are primarily crepuscular (active at dawn and dusk) in nature, so sitting directly beneath the light isn't always something they're willing to do even for thermoregulation. Apparently yours feels safe enough in her viv to sit in the light.

There's no big rush, but I would definitely look into getting a UTH for her down the road. (And you're quite welcome for any help I can give. I've learned a lot here - still do! - and am happy to try and return the favor and help others get off to the right start!:cheers

 

[susang]

I live on the Mississippi coast and it's hot here too. I have to say, I'd question the level of husbandry knowledge of any vet who recommends against a UTH for a corn snake. NOTE: this is NOT a criticism of your vet's medical knowledge. Vets learn how to diagnose and treat dozens of species in vet school; they seldom learn details of husbandry for all of these, particularly if they're not often treating that species.

Colubrids, including corn snakes, need belly heat for proper digestion, and that's best provided by a UTH. "Hot rocks" or other heat sources INSIDE the viv are indeed a bad idea and can cause burns, but a UTH with a thermostat or rheostat is the healthiest choice for your pet.

Sorry to bump this up again, but I was reading through old threads.
You are criticising the vet and that's OK, but check with other breeders around you. Many corns and other colubrids do well in your region wtihout heat and across country some people use heat cable across back of rack system. Belly heat works for you and others, but so do other forms of heat, i.e. none,heat lights, mats (some people even put those on side), cables across back...
The one thing I totally agree with is no heat rocks.

 

[Lolo]

Sorry to bump this up again, but I was reading through old threads.
You are criticising the vet and that's OK, but check with other breeders around you. Many corns and other colubrids do well in your region wtihout heat and across country some people use heat cable across back of rack system. Belly heat works for you and others, but so do other forms of heat, i.e. none,heat lights, mats (some people even put those on side), cables across back...
The one thing I totally agree with is no heat rocks.

Most snakes will do fine without belly heat, and in fact 3 of my corns (and 3 BPs) are in a rack with back heat - and so far no problems with digestion. But for the record, my veterinarian is a herp specialist with over 20 years of experience, and she recommends belly heat... when my JCP was having trouble digesting even with belly heat, she suggested cranking it up & putting his entire hide directly over the flexwatt. Considering her extensive knowledge in caring for herps, I assume she knows what she's saying.

 

[Caryl]

Sorry to bump this up again, but I was reading through old threads.
You are criticising the vet and that's OK, but check with other breeders around you. Many corns and other colubrids do well in your region wtihout heat and across country some people use heat cable across back of rack system. Belly heat works for you and others, but so do other forms of heat, i.e. none,heat lights, mats (some people even put those on side), cables across back...
The one thing I totally agree with is no heat rocks.

I have to say, I'd question the level of husbandry knowledge of any vet who recommends against a UTH for a corn snake. NOTE: this is NOT a criticism of your vet's medical knowledge. Vets learn how to diagnose and treat dozens of species in vet school; they seldom learn details of husbandry for all of these, particularly if they're not often treating that species.

Colubrids, including corn snakes, need belly heat for proper digestion, and that's best provided by a UTH. "Hot rocks" or other heat sources INSIDE the viv are indeed a bad idea and can cause burns, but a UTH with a thermostat or rheostat is the healthiest choice for your pet.

On to the point about summer temps and the need for heat at all. I have several vivs that are unheated now except for occasional cooler nights. Doing this is a viable choice, but it does mean extra vigilance to make certain that the temps don't get out of line. Native wild corns are adapted to your area, and moderated ambient temperatures are fine for them and for yours.

Actually, I wasn't criticizing the vet. I was merely commenting on the fact that it's virtually impossible for a given veterinarian to be well versed in husbandry for every one of the myriad species which s/he encounters for treatment. I've worked with vets, planned to go to vet school until I had my own litter (triplets), and my daughter is planning to enter vet school in 2011. Believe me, I appreciate the level of treatment expertise needed to be a vet.

Yes, many forms of heat work well in many part of the country, and I did not mean to imply otherwise. I personally have some vivs with UTHs, some with no heat in warm rooms, and some with a heating cable on a rack.

Most snakes will do fine without belly heat, and in fact 3 of my corns (and 3 BPs) are in a rack with back heat - and so far no problems with digestion. But for the record, my veterinarian is a herp specialist with over 20 years of experience, and she recommends belly heat... when my JCP was having trouble digesting even with belly heat, she suggested cranking it up & putting his entire hide directly over the flexwatt. Considering her extensive knowledge in caring for herps, I assume she knows what she's saying.

That's what I meant.
There are so many facets of animal husbandry that have many "right" ways of doing them. The OP was inquiring about best practices and that's what I was trying to address. I didn't mean to imply that any particular heat method was the only way to go. Sorry if that was fuzzy. Sorry to be so lengthy. I just wanted to clarify, and no hard feelings.