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Petco Misinformation - Surviving the night

twmedford23 said:
I don't think I've found a single care sheet yet that specifically advises against heat lamps. Here's just one example from kingsnake.com, written by Peter Spiess: http://www.kingsnake.com/rockymountain/RMHPages/RMHnewpage11.htm

"Appropriate Heating

There are several choices for appropriate corn snake heating. Whatever choice of heating is used, it is very important to provide one area of the cage where the ambient (air) temperature is 80-85 degrees F. Corn snakes, like all reptiles, do not make their own body heat and rely on a behavioral mechanism called thermoregualtion to regulate their body temperature. Thermoregulation means that when a reptile is too cool, it moves to an area to warm itself, and when it is too hot, it moves to a cooler area. Access to warm areas are critically important to the health of your snake. Appropriate heating is required for proper digestion and the effective functioning of the immune system.

If the tank has a screen top, a shop light or metal reflector may be placed on top of the cage, to one side, with a heating bulb inside to create a basking area of 80-85 degrees F. Another method of heating is the use of quality undertank heating pads. Undertank heaters are plastic with one adhesive side. The adhesive side of the heater is used to attach it to the bottom of the outside of the tank, on one side of the cage. These heaters can only be used with certain types of cages, so check the directions before purchase. Hot rocks are not recommended for corn snake heating for several reasons."

I can post excerpts from caresheets all day long saying that heat lamps are perfectly acceptable as heating sources for corn snakes. EVERY rat, corn or king/milk snake book that I own also recommend heat lamps, just as well as under tank heaters. I would understand some of the venom being thrown at me if these same book/caresheets advise AGAINST heat lamps but they don't. So yeah, I still believe it comes down to preference. If the corn snake has a way to warm itself, why does it matter how it is achieved?

What's interesting is none of you would recommend heat rocks, and IMO rightly so. However, what would be the harm if they are used with a dimmer or thermostat? If it's okay for undertank heaters, why not for heat rocks?

And just to set the record straight, I do use undertank heaters for some of my snakes, including my amel corn snake and ball python, only because my house stays on the cool side because of the AC. But as I mentioned earlier, I don't believe both are necessary in most situations and if I would have to recommend one over the other, I will recommend lamps.
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Corn snakes need belly heat, end of discussion. Unless you're using paper towel for substrate, your heat lamp probably wont make the bottom of the tank warm enough, and if it does it's probably making the ambient air too hot. Do what you want to do with your animal.

Heat rocks are faulty for a number of reasons, which adding a rheostat cannot fix. The plastic covering is not always evenly distributed, causing some areas to be cool and others to be very hot, snakes can squirm underneath them and be burned, etc. If you wish to use heat lamps or god forbid heat rocks for your animals, I can't stop you. Just know that just because snakes can show obvious signs of discomfort doesn't mean they enjoy the conditions you provide.
 
Did you not see the part where I specifically stated that my animals get belly heat? Or did you just conveniently skip that part?

And just so you know, I'm going to take the word of a published author over some "know it all" jackass forum member. END OF DISCUSSION
 
I'm done with this forum. This "I'm right, you're wrong" attitude is sickening. Thanks but no thanks - I'll post somewhere else.
 
My thread got big quick, haha. I guess if you want to leave that is up to you, this is a really informative and excellent corn snake forum though. Disagreements happen everywhere online.

I have a probe on the warm side of the critter keeper and it says 85 F with the human heat pad, though I can understand how it's dangerous since they are not meant to be on for so long. Right when I think I have the right set-up I learn something new to make me change my mind. I will look into the mini heat mats today.

Some great news, the little one is eating a thawed pinkie right now. I had no problems; just sat it in the feeding box and that was it. So I'm feeling very thankful right now as I know people can have one heck of a time getting these small kids to eat.

Here is a picture!

07d064d4.jpg
 
Congrats on your new snake!

FYI, I'd keep an eye out on local classified ads for heat mats. I've found them there for around $5. As long as you have then right temps, though, good enough is good enough.

Your little one os beautiful!
 
cotner said:
to each his own? WRONG. It's a living animal and like someone already said on here it needs belly heat not a basking temp. Ambient temperature is important but it is more important for the UTH to be at a proper temp because the snake will NEED proper belly heat for digestion. So not to each there own, if someone cannot handle using a UTH, they should not be raising a corn snake because they are not doing it properly. and as far as cost efficient? a UTH is cheaper on electricity than a lamp by far and you dont have to replace bulbs. You can get a lamp dimmer from homendepot for 10$ and plug your UTH into that and adjust it to the proper temp. Please dont use shortcuts to get by, do it properly. Congrats on the new snake! hope the mite problem clears!
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Yah, No. I like many other Reptile hobbists, use the lamps. I personally like those better because, if you think about it, even if you HAVE your UTH at the right tempature it could still burn your snake's belly. My friend's Ball Python DIED because of that. So yes. It is to each his own. I will NOT try the UTH's because of this reason. Agreeing with some of the posts above, Corns are hardy snakes, Sure its NICE for them to have belly heat, but do you really think they get that in the wild all the time? I think not. So for now, i'm agreeing with twmedford23.
 
twmedford23 said:
Did you not see the part where I specifically stated that my animals get belly heat? Or did you just conveniently skip that part?

And just so you know, I'm going to take the word of a published author over some "know it all" jackass forum member. END OF DISCUSSION
Click to expand...

Hi,
I am just curious who the published author is who you are quoting? I only ask this because this forum has a member who is THE ultimate authority on cornsnakes and has written 2 books...she has also been breeding corns longer than many of us have been alive (I think she's been breeding since the 80s anyway), and has actually been the first to discover several morphs....

So please don't completely don't write off the whole forum just because you don't like a post!
 
Just wanted to mention (if you're still looking for another heating pad) that at my petsmart today I noticed they have the little "snake kit" and gecko kits marked down to like $7. Most of the stuff is garbage (stick on dial thermometers, tongs) but it also included an UTH and a small water bowl. I considered picking one up just for the heating pad, but didn't really need an extra. Not sure if this clearance is in all stores, but might be worth checking.

Good luck with your baby! 5g is tiny!
 
Thanks for heads up, Erika. By the way, we have the same name. :p

I actually just went ahead and put the critter keeper in the 20 gallon long tank over half of the UTH already on there. It seems to be working out good for now. I decided to name my little baby Sage. I think it's pretty, not to mention unisex.

Can someone tell me what morph Sage is? I would greatly appreciate it.
 
Do you have a photo of your bubba up here somewhere? A link would help with morph ID.
 
Your baby is an amel, short for amelanistic. You might also hear her called a red albino. All this just means that she's missing the black pigment that normal corn snakes have, leaving just the reds and yellows.
 
Thanks you for the info. I was leaning towards an Amel but wasn't positive.

Yet another question, sorry. Sage ate on Tuesday, the vet recommended feeding twice a week since she is a baby and only 5 grams. When would be good to feed her again, I was thinking tomorrow (Friday)?
 
Saturday might be better. If you're going to give her an accelerated feeding schedule, try not to go too far below every 4-5 days or you risk her refusing/regurging because she's still digesting the last meal.
 
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